[Solved] Dead '04 - need help - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

solley1 · 09-18-2011, 10:38 PM

Went into the garage a few mornings ago and tried to start my 4cyl 2004 Camry with 140k miles.

Click, click, click.

Took the battery to AutoZone for test. It tested bad, so I bought a new one and installed. Car started with no problem and I thought I was good.

I wasn't.

Drove out of the neighborhood and noticed it was a little chuggy at the first stop sign. At the next one, it died. Started right back up, headed back home, died (or wanted to) at each stop sign before getting home.

Pulled out my voltmeter. With the car off, it read ~12.5V. Started the car and it read ~13.2V.

So, went to AutoZone and picked up a new alternator. Installed Friday night, put the meter on it, and read ~14.6V. Thought I was good.

I wasn't.

Didn't start it again until tonight (Sunday). Pulled out of the neighborhood, and it started the exact same stall-at-each-stop routine. Got back home and let it "idle". I didn't know it could idle so slowly (tach read like 100rpm?). Put the meter on it...~13V. Rev'd up to around 1500rpm, no change in voltage. Shut 'er down and measured ~12.5V.

I've pretty much exhausted my limited car knowledge.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Glenn8963 · 09-19-2011, 05:33 AM

since you only said you put the new battery into the car and it started up, you didn't really say what else you did before you drove away.

the "usual" procedure, is to make sure the battery terminals are clean, there will always be some dullness to the terminals, so they should be nice and shiny. then, the battery cables should also be very clean.

after all is clean, and the cables are connected, then you start up the car, and just let it idle for at the very least 10 minutes. this gives the computer time to "re-learn" the settings.

after this idle time, you can then go for a ride, of a few miles. me personally, i drive about 20 miles (round trip). this gives the computer to gain more of the memory at the different speeds.

some people say this is not required, but to this day, i have never had any problems doing this.

so start from step one again...

disconnect the battery cables, make sure ALL the terminals and cables connections are clean, connect everything, start it up, let it idle for 10 minutes, (DO NOT REV IT UP), then after 10 minutes, go for a ride, DO NOT RACE the engine...drive normally...!!!!

solley1 · 09-19-2011, 07:11 AM

OK. Will try this right now.

I did clean the posts/cables, btw.

Glenn8963 · 09-19-2011, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solley1

OK. Will try this right now.

I did clean the posts/cables, btw.

when you disconnect the battery cables, give it about 10 minutes before you re-connect them.

BlackCamSe · 09-19-2011, 08:16 AM

When your battery died the ecu lost voltage, which in turn erased all the data. So you basically reset the ecu. You need to allow the car to relearn idle. Start the car and put it in gear with your foot on the brake and let it sit for about a half hour..or until the idle raises on it's own.

solley1 · 09-19-2011, 08:47 AM

Glenn....you 'da man!

I let it idle for about 20 minutes in the garage, after unhooking the battery cables for about 5 minutes (didn't see your 2nd post until now).

Drove around the neighborhood for about 5 minutes, but had no issues.

Took the usual route to work (~15 miles, under 50mph), and here I sit!

I was really worried I had ruined a new battery and new alternator without fixing the root issue (which was making for a very, very grumpy wife!).

Thanks for the tip and expanding my admittedly limited car knowledge.

Glenn8963 · 09-19-2011, 11:45 AM

you are welcome..that applies to just about all cars since the late 1990's.

file that under "things to remember"....for the next time...!!

tengiday · 09-19-2011, 12:13 PM

@Glenn8963: Thank you! I thought changing a new battery is going to be like putting a new battery in my laptop, but it's not! I will remember this procedure.

solley1 · 09-19-2011, 01:00 PM

So, now that I'm a brilliant auto aficionado...

is it safe to say I've replaced a perfectly good alternator?

I guess I could keep the old one as a back-up, rather than get the $35 core charge back.

On the other hand, I'm guessing I'll keep this car for another 75k miles (max), so the new one likely (knock on wood) won't have any issues between now and then.

Glenn8963 · 09-19-2011, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solley1

So, now that I'm a brilliant auto aficionado...

is it safe to say I've replaced a perfectly good alternator?

I guess I could keep the old one as a back-up, rather than get the $35 core charge back.

On the other hand, I'm guessing I'll keep this car for another 75k miles (max), so the new one likely (knock on wood) won't have any issues between now and then.

well you will also need to know the amperage out put of that older alternator, not just the voltage. you can take it back to the store and have them check the amperage output. you will have to know how many amps that old one was supposed to deliver, 100 amps, 120, 150..???

i would only venture to guess, it is a 100 amp alternator. if they test it, and it only is putting out say, 70 to 85 amps, maybe just return it for the core charge. do not forget, your battery died. it could have been due to old age..it could have been due to a low alternator amperage output.....

now IF the alternator proves to be putting out 100 amps...well then you have a really good decision to make...put the old one back in, and bring back the new one, and only be charged a 15% re-stocking fee instead.....

just be sure to disconnect the battery cable, then remember to go through all that stuff again about idling the car, etc,etc, etc...