5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My 2003 Camry XLE 4-cyl has a serious intermittent problem. Here's the symptom:
Occasionally, when I insert the key into the ignition switch and turn to ON position, the whole car has no electrical power - including radio, fan, windows, and the whole dashboard just went black ! Starter won't turn. At this point if I just tap slightly on the brake pedal once, electrical power would instantly come back and everything works normal again (car starts, radio, fan working again). This problem would continue to persist randomly. I found that every time when this happens, if I clean the positive battery post/clamp, the problem goes away for 1-2 months then it come back again. I have been repeating this routine for over a year until recently I replaced the battery and the new positive clamp.
The problem has not come back until now (about 9 months since battery change). This time, the problem became a real safety issue. It happened while driving ! Engine just died, everything blackout inside the car. I had to put it in neutral and let it cruise, tapped on the brake pedal slightly to get electrical power back, then started the car and go again.
Can anyone suggest what the culprit might be. Does it sound like an issue with ECM ? I have taken it to the Toyota repair shop several times, but the technician could not find anything wrong even when the problem happened in front of them.
My 2003 Camry XLE 4-cyl has a serious intermittent problem. Here's the symptom:
Occasionally, when I insert the key into the ignition switch and turn to ON position, the whole car has no electrical power - including radio, fan, windows, and the whole dashboard just went black ! Starter won't turn. At this point if I just tap slightly on the brake pedal once, electrical power would instantly come back and everything works normal again (car starts, radio, fan working again). This problem would continue to persist randomly. I found that every time when this happens, if I clean the positive battery post/clamp, the problem goes away for 1-2 months then it come back again. I have been repeating this routine for over a year until recently I replaced the battery and the new positive clamp.
The problem has not come back until now (about 9 months since battery change). This time, the problem became a real safety issue. It happened while driving ! Engine just died, everything blackout inside the car. I had to put it in neutral and let it cruise, tapped on the brake pedal slightly to get electrical power back, then started the car and go again.
Can anyone suggest what the culprit might be. Does it sound like an issue with ECM ? I have taken it to the Toyota repair shop several times, but the technician could not find anything wrong even when the problem happened in front of them.
HELP ! HELP !
all batteries "out gas" when they are being charged by the alternator. toyota battery clamps actually expose the cable, beyond the clamp. by simply replacing the clamp, you are NOT making certain the corrosion with-in the positive cable is gone. do not forget that the battery cable is made up of twisted copper wires, so corrosion can get deep inside. i would rather you replace the entire positive cable, and possibly the negative cable as well.
so start from there, EVERYTHING new and fresh. because you only did about one third of a job...up to this point.
intermittent electrical problems are VERY DIFFICULT to diagnose. when i had electrical problems come into my shop, my customers were told UP FRONT, i cannot guarantee finding anything, and you WILL STILL PAY ME for my time.....many times, a customer would wait till the car finally went "kaput", then it was towed in....
so start as i said, with NEW FRESH cables.......
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thanks Glenn for the advice. I have a question: do you think the bad/corroded battery cable explains the symptom I have (complete loss of electrical power, then by tapping the brake pedal, the power is back) ? Why does tapping the brake pedal have such impact ?
Even if the cables are corroded, they should still conduct come electricity. A total failure in power suggests, to me, the points where electricity jumps, like the terminals. You said scrubbing them fixed the problem for 1-2 months.
There is a liquid you can get, short hand name is noalox. It's for points of contact on electrical connections that are copper - aluminum. It prevents aluminum from oxidizing. Something in copper touching aluminum makes them corrode rapidly.
I'm an electrician but I don't know much about vehicle electronics.
I would still assume that the same principles apply.
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thanks Glenn for the advice. I have a question: do you think the bad/corroded battery cable explains the symptom I have (complete loss of electrical power, then by tapping the brake pedal, the power is back) ? Why does tapping the brake pedal have such impact ?
check ALL the ground locations you can. remove the ground straps or cables where ever you find them and give the surfaces a nice cleaning. make sure each surface shines bright, then reconnect the grounds.
why it "comes back to life" when you tap the brake pedal, i cannot say, but a corroded battery cable WILL slow down or STOP the flow of battery current, in spite of what someone else has said.
if it were an ECM problem, you should be getting a fault code, are you getting any fault codes..???
i would still recommend replacing the battery cables, what you can do is look at the positive cable, and do you see ANY corrosion..?? if so, even the tiniest bit, then there is MORE corrosion inside the insulation of the cable....it IS a common problem, that is corrosion inside of the battery cables. your car, my car, everyone's car, MUST HAVE at the very least 12.5 to 13.5 volts flowing at all times for proper ECM operation. i also would recommend that if you can, lift off the battery caps (if they are removable) and bring up the level of the electrolyte by adding DISTILLED water, not tap water, not spring water, not bottled water. bring up the level till the water level "looks distorted", DO NOT over fill a battery..
just last month, after having my car for over a year, i have done this...you WILL NOT HARM your battery, in fact, you help it live longer as the top of the battery plates do not dry out. once the battery plates dry out, you have reduced battery capacity.
auto electrical systems and HOME electrical systems ARE DIFFERENT.
Last edited by Glenn8963; 09-23-2011 at 01:46 PM.
Reason: spelling
Well I never said I was an expert, I wasn't trying to discredit anything you said, I was just trying to explain a little of what I know, and I did say that what I knew wasn't specifically about vehicle electronics. There's no need to be rude when we are both aiming for the same goal. Thanks for the warm welcome to this site.
Well I never said I was an expert, I wasn't trying to discredit anything you said, I was just trying to explain a little of what I know, and I did say that what I knew wasn't specifically about vehicle electronics. There's no need to be rude when we are both aiming for the same goal. Thanks for the warm welcome to this site.
you simply cannot talk about house AC electricity to a cars DC electricity..you are trying to compare apples to oranges.
what "little you knew", did NOT apply here. it was best left unsaid...
and frankly, i see NO rudeness in my response. if you took it that way, so be it.
Well howielam I hope your problem/question is solved/answered. Sorry the conversation became convoluted. ******here wants to belittle people by acting like he knows anything about how "little I know" me. Hehe "house ac", that's pretty cute. Hope you have a good day. I know I am.
Last edited by MR2Jedi; 09-23-2011 at 04:25 PM.
Reason: edited name calling
Well I never said I was an expert, I wasn't trying to discredit anything you said, I was just trying to explain a little of what I know, and I did say that what I knew wasn't specifically about vehicle electronics. There's no need to be rude when we are both aiming for the same goal. Thanks for the warm welcome to this site.
I do not think he was rude... but I do know that you know what you are talking about.
Now back to the problem.
Try to wiggle your your key in the ignition switch. It may be a problem there as well.
Good luck,
Sam
__________________
2004 Toyota Camry LE
1999 Honda Accord LX
1992 Subaru Loyale
2010 Subaru Forester
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