5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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I changed the battery in a 3MZ Camry as PM and now the car idles around 580 RPM according to my ScanGuage. I can blip the throttle to get it up to 700 and it'll stay there for about 5-10 seconds but then falls back to 580-600ish.
Everything else appears normal; no codes are thrown. I've disconnected the battery to reset the ECM after this issue first appeared after installing the new the battery.
Voltage appears normal, about 13.6V at idle and 14.2V or so higher at fast idle. New battery was manufactured Sep 2011 and registers 12.6V with the engine off.
Car runs normal and doesn't stall. Car has been driven about 100mi after resetting the ECM and still the same issue. Car fast idles as normal, around 1100 RPM for a couple minutes right when it fires up, but then falls to 580-600 after it warms whether by driving it or letting it sit. More common is driving immediately after starting.
I'm thinking possibly dirty throttle body or IAC, but typically I see that causing rough idle or no idle (dies when accelerator is released), not continuous low idle like I'm seeing.
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2007 Camry 2.4L 5M
Last edited by touringcamry; 10-04-2011 at 01:21 AM.
The problem did not exist prior to replacing the battery. I had the battery disconnected for probably 30 min when I changed the battery when I ran into this low idle issue. I later I disconnected it probably for about 2 hours.
Both times I let the car idle 10-15 minutes after reconnecting the battery. The engine died once each time after reconnecting the battery and starting for the first time. Each time the engine ran for about 10 seconds before dying. Starting it up the second time the idle went as low as about 400 RPM, but did not stall.
After the second time I disconnected the battery, the car was driven about 100 miles, went to 4 or 5 different locations, in a mix of city and urban freeway. The vehicle has not been driven since Sunday evening but the problem, as far as I know, still exists.
Fast idle at this time of year on cold start is around 1100 and the vehicle does this fine but then falls to 600RPM after it is warmed by idling or by driving. This is 100 RPM too low for normal idle.
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2007 Camry 2.4L 5M
Last edited by touringcamry; 10-05-2011 at 02:32 AM.
one time i left the fogs on in my rav4 and the battery died. so in the morning i had to jump it and i did so. i let it run for about 5 mins connected to the other battery and then i rode off. the idle was soo low that the car would seem to almost die and shake at stops... so i went back home turned off the car and tested the battery. the battery was perfect, seemed kinda odd to me. then took it around the blocks again and it worked fine. interesting. i just stopped wondering why it happened.
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2004 Rav4 I4 FWD
Mileage-21004 as of 8/23/11
i just replaced my battery on my 03 Camry last night and it seem to be running into the same issue (low RPM on idle). According to google this is a common problem for Camrys resulting from carbon built up in the throttle body. Its recommend to disconnect the battery, clean the throttle body, reconnect it to allow for a re-calibrate. i'm going to try this after work, and see if it fixes my issue.
this is a common problem for Camrys resulting from carbon built up in the throttle body.
this is very accurate. newer toyotas use an electronic throttle body. due to this there is no conventional 'idle air control valve.' the throttle plate is controlled via the pcm. the pcm 'learns' the angle at which the throttle plate should rest to maintain proper idle speed. this value is continually adjusted/learned over time. also over time carbon residue builds up in the throttle body and the learned angle changes to accommodate; it becomes greater. when pcm loses power (battery dies) it also loses some learned values. when power is restored, it has default values. in this case the default value would be a lesser throttle angle which in turn means the throttle plate is on/in/too near the carbonj build up and the engine is not getting enough air causing low idle.
the quickest fix is to clean the throttle body (if you have the avail materials). an old toothbrush with carb cleaner sprayed on the bristles usually does a great job. the carbon build up on teh inside of the throttle body bore near where the throttle plate rests is all that needs to be cleaned. (make sure ignition is OFF when doing this or it may throw codes and/or damage the throttle body)
often times the car will relearn itself and drivability issues wont be too bad, other times it wont even start/stay running.
this is very accurate. newer toyotas use an electronic throttle body. due to this there is no conventional 'idle air control valve.' the throttle plate is controlled via the pcm. the pcm 'learns' the angle at which the throttle plate should rest to maintain proper idle speed. this value is continually adjusted/learned over time. also over time carbon residue builds up in the throttle body and the learned angle changes to accommodate; it becomes greater. when pcm loses power (battery dies) it also loses some learned values. when power is restored, it has default values. in this case the default value would be a lesser throttle angle which in turn means the throttle plate is on/in/too near the carbonj build up and the engine is not getting enough air causing low idle.
the quickest fix is to clean the throttle body (if you have the avail materials). an old toothbrush with carb cleaner sprayed on the bristles usually does a great job. the carbon build up on teh inside of the throttle body bore near where the throttle plate rests is all that needs to be cleaned. (make sure ignition is OFF when doing this or it may throw codes and/or damage the throttle body)
often times the car will relearn itself and drivability issues wont be too bad, other times it wont even start/stay running.
I have to ask this question. If someone plans to change out the battery, why not connect a second 12 volt battery to the car battery leads prior to disconnecting the cars normal battery. Would this prevent the cars computer from losing its mind?
I have to ask this question. If someone plans to change out the battery, why not connect a second 12 volt battery to the car battery leads prior to disconnecting the cars normal battery. Would this prevent the cars computer from losing its mind?
I have a 2005 Camry SE V6.
that will absolutely work. it will also save you a few minutes resetting radio presets and reinitializing any sunroof/sliding door/auto-up/down windows as well.
the one thing ill say against this is that while bypassing a throttle body cleaning can save time now, it could be very inconvienent in the future when you accidentally leave something on and the battery dies in the car overnight. the longer you go w/o cleaning the throttle body the worse the idle will be (if it'll idle at all). /shrug personal prefference. an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
something else that works just as well is a 9volt battery. make yourself some homemade/makeshift leads (like with alligator clips) from an 9volt battery connector (like from an old elctronic device that doesnt work anymore). then just hook up the leads to the car's battery cable terminals before you take them off (remember to keep the correct positive/negative orientations) and you can switch out batteries w/o losing memory.
one thing to keep in mind is that 9volts is basically the BOTTOM of the volt range where computers can keep memory (i think 10 is the actual number), but if you switch them out w/in a couple min, you should be good. if you take the battery out and then run to the store to get the new battery, likely it may drain the 9volt by the time you get back (esp. in the newer cars w/all the add'l ECUs).
also, many places sell 'memory saving' devices. the types differ, but the theory is the same.
Last edited by insanityslave; 11-20-2011 at 10:52 AM.
that will absolutely work. it will also save you a few minutes resetting radio presets and reinitializing any sunroof/sliding door/auto-up/down windows as well.
the one thing ill say against this is that while bypassing a throttle body cleaning can save time now, it could be very inconvienent in the future when you accidentally leave something on and the battery dies in the car overnight. the longer you go w/o cleaning the throttle body the worse the idle will be (if it'll idle at all). /shrug personal prefference. an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
something else that works just as well is a 9volt battery. make yourself some homemade/makeshift leads (like with alligator clips) from an 9volt battery connector (like from an old elctronic device that doesnt work anymore). then just hook up the leads to the car's battery cable terminals before you take them off (remember to keep the correct positive/negative orientations) and you can switch out batteries w/o losing memory.
one thing to keep in mind is that 9volts is basically the BOTTOM of the volt range where computers can keep memory (i think 10 is the actual number), but if you switch them out w/in a couple min, you should be good. if you take the battery out and then run to the store to get the new battery, likely it may drain the 9volt by the time you get back (esp. in the newer cars w/all the add'l ECUs).
also, many places sell 'memory saving' devices. the types differ, but the theory is the same.
What I used to do was replace the battery with the car running. As the alternator does most of the work. You can't take too long but simply remove the negative. Set it out of the way. Remove the positive. Remove the battery. Install new. Connect and good to go. No redoing presets, no reset sunroof or power windows, and no ECU parameter relearning.
On the same not though the throttle body should always be clean anyway. And having a dirty one is an issue.
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