5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I noticed the the front torque strut mount is cracked though. How significant of an issue is this this? Can i drive for a week or so before I get to change it...
I found anchor brand mount that i can get for 37 bucks, or should I go OEM which is about $65 online... presumably more at my local dealer.
I figured get the anchor brand and fill the gaps with window urethane. Any idea what kind of urethane and where to get it?
I noticed the the front torque strut mount is cracked though. How significant of an issue is this this? Can i drive for a week or so before I get to change it...
I found anchor brand mount that i can get for 37 bucks, or should I go OEM which is about $65 online... presumably more at my local dealer.
I figured get the anchor brand and fill the gaps with window urethane. Any idea what kind of urethane and where to get it?
first and foremost, those gaps were designed in that strut for a reason, do not fill them in. this also tells me that it is cheaply made as well (maybe lower quality rubber material).....have you compared that brand to the OEM..?? if so, is the OEM gap smaller than the off brand...??? if the OEM has smaller gaps, to me, this says BETTER construction, BETTER life of the part.
next, i myself would prefer OEM as the time and mileage prove how long an OEM part will go.
sure, off brand parts can go a long time as well, but if it breaks sooner than the OEM (which it will), then you have to buy another one, what did you save..???? nothing......you'd be a penny wise but a dollar foolish, if you go of brand.
i would also get this replaced ASAP as you are putting a strain on the engine mounts. if you break those, you'll be spending MORE MONEY and right now......
Just replaced mine friday, so I'm going to try to help. The one I bought was $55.00 and change. It appears to be good quality, don't remember the brand though.
Installing is fairly easy, but you'll have to shake the whole car to get the motor to move so the mount will be in the right place on the fender so the bolt will go in. Takes about 10 mins. When you're done, start it up and go from P down to D and hold it in each gear for a few seconds to make sure there's nothing wrong with the new mount or the way you installed it.
As for continuing to drive it, I WOULD NOT drive it with a badly cracked mount. If you have no other way to get around, just be easy on the throttle and no flooring it on highways and whatnot. Like Glenn said, if it breaks now, you'll be putting a lot more money in than you needed to.
For the record, it can also be called a "dog bone" mount. When I went to buy mine, I said "torque strut mount." The guy came back with a lower motor mount. I said, "No, the dog bone mount" and then he got me the right part, lol.
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Lunar Mist 2003 Camry LE 2AZ-FE; 65,400 miles
OEM Spoiler | painted engine cover | plasti-dipped emblems | painted fuse box cover | carbon HVAC controls | blacked out chrome accents | window tint 35% front 20% rear | TRD performance air filter | gen 5.5 SE grille
at one time, Monroe made a torque shock for front wheel drive cars..you'd mount it at the side of the engine to the radiator support.. this would save wear and tear on the dog bones, in fact, on some cars, especially the American, it would replace the dog bone. but since the dog bone goes from the front of the engine to (near) the strut tower, this torque shock, cannot be used. BUT it can be modified (bracketry ) to be placed as where i previously stated.
i cannot find those anymore however. cost was right around $50, and i made a killing installing them on the American front wheel drive cars.
So what brand did you buy? or what store? Anchor seems to be a known brand for mounts.
To the other post, I have not compared with OEM. But filling in the gaps with urethane are very common practice in other cars that have the such torque strut mounts. In-fact inserts are made just for that. Now, this may increase vibration at idle.
If you search this forum you'll find a DIY on repairing this mount using solid rubber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XxPURExTOYOTAxX
Just replaced mine friday, so I'm going to try to help. The one I bought was $55.00 and change. It appears to be good quality, don't remember the brand though.
Installing is fairly easy, but you'll have to shake the whole car to get the motor to move so the mount will be in the right place on the fender so the bolt will go in. Takes about 10 mins. When you're done, start it up and go from P down to D and hold it in each gear for a few seconds to make sure there's nothing wrong with the new mount or the way you installed it.
As for continuing to drive it, I WOULD NOT drive it with a badly cracked mount. If you have no other way to get around, just be easy on the throttle and no flooring it on highways and whatnot. Like Glenn said, if it breaks now, you'll be putting a lot more money in than you needed to.
For the record, it can also be called a "dog bone" mount. When I went to buy mine, I said "torque strut mount." The guy came back with a lower motor mount. I said, "No, the dog bone mount" and then he got me the right part, lol.
So what brand did you buy? or what store? Anchor seems to be a known brand for mounts.
To the other post, I have not compared with OEM. But filling in the gaps with urethane are very common practice in other cars that have the such torque strut mounts. In-fact inserts are made just for that. Now, this may increase vibration at idle.
If you search this forum you'll find a DIY on repairing this mount using solid rubber.
why the hell do you want to "increase vibration"...??? these engines are made out of aluminum, why do you wish to "stress" the metal any more than it needs to be..?? do you think that if the OEM makers thought that would be a good idea, to "stress" the engine, they would have built the torque struts with a solid bushing..??? you run the risk (over time) to develop stress cracks on the engine, at the areas known as the "boss". this is the area in which the bolts go into to secure the mounts. if you develop any stress cracks there, you will need a new cylinder head or maybe even an engine block, depending on how the dog-bone is bolted to your engine as they cannot be welded.. that engine needs to be relieved of the unnecessary stress and strain the manufacturer designed into it, when they engineered that strut/dog-bone.
so do as you wish.....but you'll be back here telling of of your cracked engine parts.
Thx, yeah I know what I am doing. btw, learn to post your opinions without ranting/offending others. Else take a hike!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn8963
why the hell do you want to "increase vibration"...??? these engines are made out of aluminum, why do you wish to "stress" the metal any more than it needs to be..?? do you think that if the OEM makers thought that would be a good idea, to "stress" the engine, they would have built the torque struts with a solid bushing..??? you run the risk (over time) to develop stress cracks on the engine, at the areas known as the "boss". this is the area in which the bolts go into to secure the mounts. if you develop any stress cracks there, you will need a new cylinder head or maybe even an engine block, depending on how the dog-bone is bolted to your engine as they cannot be welded.. that engine needs to be relieved of the unnecessary stress and strain the manufacturer designed into it, when they engineered that strut/dog-bone.
so do as you wish.....but you'll be back here telling of of your cracked engine parts.
I don't have to. If you have the linguistic ability, read & analyze the verbiage of your post yourself (without the arrogance/bias). good luck you as well!
Usually on older Toyotas the torque strut is not the first mount to be bad. It is usually the front mount that goes bad and makes the torquue strut fail. I would check your front mount too to make sure your new torque strut isnt going to fail sooner than it should. Also while not as harsh worded I agree with Glenn. The torque strut lasts forever as it is. Usually at least 5-7 years in rough climates so it isnt really worth the added time and expense to fill the gaps on a part that wont fail at is it for another 5 years. It is simply easier to leave it as it is and check the condition of your other mounts.
Also vibration is bad for engines and car bodies. Stuff starts to fail and come loose and when their is excess vibration.
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2007 Dodge Caliber
"Silver Bullet"
"Super"
. I said, "No, the dog bone mount" and then he got me the right part, lol.
The Camry
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