Electrical Problem

[weuking]

Okay so today I replaced the Map lights on my 2011 camry with led lights. The leads in the car were spread apart so I used my screwdriver to bring them closer together. Unfortunatly, I blew my 10 amp fuse for the dome light doing this. I replaced it and everything worked fine.. Or so I thought..

Later,
I discovered that:

1) I can unlock my car using the keyless entry but not lock it (however I still heard the horn, symbolizing that the door had locked, although it didn't)

2) My dome lights will not come on if the door is open (unless the key is in the ignition)

3) I can hear the door open chime (even though the key is not in the ignition and the door is closed)
-chime stops after 5 chimes

4) The airbag sign and the lost traction sign are displayed on the panel


Can anyone tell me whats going on here and what I can do to fix it?

[Ted Striker]

Unplug the dome lamp and recheck it. Check all the fuses inside and outside. The door lock thing sounds like bad news. Maybe a body ECU issue. The chime issue makes me think that also. If I were you I'd verify my fuses were good, put it back stock and go to the dealer and play dumb. LEDs must have proper resistance in the circuit, sounds like it went to a dead short.

[weuking]

I think I caused the short by putting my screwdriver into the map light housing. Maybe I touched the positive and the negative together? But I don't understand how this could have caused all the issues I'm experiencing. I already went back to stock just in case I have to take it to the dealership.. I've only had the car for 9 months now. Do you think warranty will cover it?

and can you explain what a "body ECU issue" is?

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by weuking

Okay so today I replaced the Map lights on my 2011 camry with led lights. The leads in the car were spread apart so I used my screwdriver to bring them closer together. Unfortunatly, I blew my 10 amp fuse for the dome light doing this. I replaced it and everything worked fine.. Or so I thought..

Later,
I discovered that:

1) I can unlock my car using the keyless entry but not lock it (however I still heard the horn, symbolizing that the door had locked, although it didn't)

2) My dome lights will not come on if the door is open (unless the key is in the ignition)

3) I can hear the door open chime (even though the key is not in the ignition and the door is closed)
-chime stops after 5 chimes

4) The airbag sign and the lost traction sign are displayed on the panel


Can anyone tell me whats going on here and what I can do to fix it?

Have you checked for any other open fuses?
Look at the Gage #2 (7.5a)
Look at MPX-B (10a)
Look at ECU-ACC (7.5a)
Look at ECU IG #1 (10a)
Look at ECU IG #2 (7.5a)
The internal connections of the BCU are not shown, could be any of the listed fuses are open.

Good Luck...

[weuking]

Are these fuses inside or outside?

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by weuking

Are these fuses inside or outside?

Inside under the dash, page 419 in the 2011 Owners Manual.

[weuking]

Just checked the mentioned fuses and no luck.. all of them are still good

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by weuking

Just checked the mentioned fuses and no luck.. all of them are still good

Which Map Light?
Do you have a Moon Roof?
Model;
SE
LE
XLE?

I will be able to see what is connected to the wires of the socket.

[weuking]

Thanks so much.. It is a 2011 Base model (so CE?) with no sunroof. And the lights I am referring to are the ones closest to the driver. (overhead, push to turn on)

[Luna2]

Double check that all fuses under the hood and dash are good (power on both sides).

It sound like some "obscurely labeled" fuse is open.

The test you did to identify what was working and was not working was while you were sitting still?

Have you tried to drive the car any where, yet?

Just a heads up;
If you have to go to the dealer, replace all of the lights with the original bulbs...

[weuking]

What exactly is meant by power on both sides? like take a volt meter to it?

And yah the tests I did to see what was working was all done in my driveway.

And I did a quick test to see if everything was ok:
Started the car
reversed and pulled back into the driveway.. nothing seems to be awry in that department


and yah. Already removed the bulbs and replaced it with the factory ones.

Additional Info:
When I was replacing the fuse, I accidently put it into #29 instead of #30 for dome..

#29 was empty to begin with. and is also 10 amps.. I think thats the fuse for (as I recall) ECCU-B or something along those lines

[Ted Striker]

The Body ECU grounds the dome lamp, controls the chime function, and works as a gateway to lock and unlock the doors. Again, the fact the doors unlock and don't lock tell me you're wasting your time looking at fuses. What happens with the lamp is you've put straight voltage to the ground side of the circuit, in this case the body ECU. Transistors are very sensitive to high amperage(a short). Just take it to the dealer. I'd tell them the fuse blew and you replaced it, leave out the LED part. It should be covered unless you butchered the lamp(broke it or deformed it so someone could tell you were in it). Most DIY and a lot of regular techs for that matter are clueless about electrical. Consider it a lesson learned. Btw I'm an MDT and I specialize in electrical problems.

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by weuking

What exactly is meant by power on both sides? like take a volt meter to it?

And yah the tests I did to see what was working was all done in my driveway.

And I did a quick test to see if everything was ok:
Started the car
reversed and pulled back into the driveway.. nothing seems to be awry in that department


and yah. Already removed the bulbs and replaced it with the factory ones.

Additional Info:
When I was replacing the fuse, I accidently put it into #29 instead of #30 for dome..

#29 was empty to begin with. and is also 10 amps.. I think thats the fuse for (as I recall) ECCU-B or something along those lines

Correction, some of the fuses I called out in post #4 are under the hood.

Post #12 has already posted what I was working up to. Thanks, very well put...

[weuking]

Thank you so much for your help. It is much appreciated. I'll revert everything back to its original state this weekend and then take the vehicle to the dealer ship.

Can You explain exactly what I did that was wrong? Like how can I prevent myself from doing this again when replacing the bulbs? or any bulb for that matter?

How much do you think it would cost if I toyota says "its your fault" ?

Once again, thank you very much

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by weuking

Thank you so much for your help. It is much appreciated. I'll revert everything back to its original state this weekend and then take the vehicle to the dealer ship.

Can You explain exactly what I did that was wrong? Like how can I prevent myself from doing this again when replacing the bulbs? or any bulb for that matter?

How much do you think it would cost if I toyota says "its your fault" ?

Once again, thank you very much

The first thing to do is remove the power from the device you are working on. Pull the fuse or find a connector it goes through and unplug it.

The interior lights that are illuminated by opening the doors have +12 volts on them all of the time. When the door is opened it triggers the body ECU in the case of the dome lamp, to turn on a power "FET" transistor to allow the current to flow through the lights filament to ground. That transistor inside the body ECU took the current from the "short" inside the socket to ground. A fuse rated at 10 amps will pass 10 amps and not open, but will open at 11 to 12 amps over a long period of time, hence it will open with a "dead short" much faster but that current flow could be as much as or more than 2 times the fuse rating before it melts open (ouch for a transistor).

I do not know what it will cost, but the hourly rate for most shops are in the order of $75 to $100 or more, depending on the location.