5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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hello, new guy here.. just picked up a 1 owner 09 V6.
it's been wet here in NY...
i have a considerable amount of wheel hop with any WOT in 1st gear.
i've read some threads here, i do not buy the "just a fwd thing" or a "so much TQ" excuse
this was Never a problem for my 303hp 320+tq LS4 friends, rain or shine if you spin it's a clean spin.(all seasons or not)
i'm also not looking to run sticky tires to "solve" this.
i located a site where an eclipse guy filled his motor mounts with window adhesive and swore by the results, saying the urethane wasn't as bad as solid mounts but the difference was night and day.
i want to try this. my concern, after looking at pictures of our motor mounts online.. they don't look like the "open" style. thoughts?
if this really does Nothing for me or isn't possible, i will look into a damper. i will not be lowering the car
something has to give. like i get that common sense is to lift if you're losing traction, but you should be able to ride that fine line and not worry about a point of no return, jack-hammer mode.
in rwd this is common and 100% fixable, whether it's slapper bars on your leaf springs(worked amazing on my 81 z28) or an ARB to the axle. it all has to do with the front wanting to lift and a bounce effect going into a vicious cycle.
i know they don't make for the most friendly DD, but curious does someone make solid mounts?
I'm sure the LS4 that your friend has is RWD and not FWD. All FWD cars with a decent amount of torque suffer from wheel hop. Remember on FWD cars your front is not just steering the car anymore, but it's driving the car too where on a RWD car the rear is only driving the car and the front is only steering the car which makes it easier to isolate and fix a problem like this. Also as you accelerate weight transfers from the front to the rear so the weight that was initially over the front tires shifted to the rear. The only fixes I've ever seen for this on FWD cars that are daily driven are filling or replacing all rubber motor and transmission mount bushings with polyurethane or metal or attaching a torque damper from the engine to the chassis (which the carmy already has a version of a torque damper, but instead of a damper it's a solid bar with rubber bushings in it). However doing any of those will make you feel more vibrations inside the car. From there the question should be how much vibration are you willing to deal with to get rid of the wheel hop? I hope this helps.
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It's good to go fast, but even better to be able to stop!!
2007 V6 Camry SE: TRD Air Filter, Power Slot Rotors, Hawk PC pads, Techna-Fit Braided Steel Brake Lines
my friend... the GM LS4 engine is an all aluminum 5.3L V8 that was basically a truck motor cut down and mounted sideways in numerous cars from 06 to 09. This motor is rated at 323 lb-ft of torque.
lets also not forget the Cadillac Northstar 4.6 with 300hp, not sure the torque off hand likely high 200s.
i mean i've got a good friend with a Cobalt SS/SC with the TVS blower, i've got Big turbo srt4 friends. i've got a race turbo integra that made 350-400 whp and ran 11.40s.
None of these cars wheel hop with hard 1st gear launches/spinning.
when you refer to the front to rear weight transfer, this is something entirely different. that weight transfer is more the cause of Loss of traction and not Wheel-hop. it's a bigger deal for drag purposes and is usually remedied by a very stiff rear suspension and/or a "wheelie" bar setup to stop weight transfer. (if you've never seen a wheelie bar on a FWD drag car, i don't think i can help you)
bottom line, i am willing to sacrifice Some comfort to save my transmission, does anyone think i can fill our mounts? never seen one in person yet, may go investigate but it's snowing now.
Last edited by CustomCaddys; 11-30-2011 at 11:31 AM.
Ahhhh. Sorry about that. I don't know much about GM vehicles so every time I hear or see LS anything I automatically think of a camaro, transam, or corvette. I've see wheelie bars on fwd cars. I'm more into autocrossing than dragging, but I understand what your saying. I have a Spec-V that I autocross and it had the same issue until I added motor mount inserts, a 4pt lower tie bar, and a torque damper. I haven't seen the motor or trans mounts in person so I really couldn't tell you if that would work the same as the link that you posted. However you might be able to fill the tq mount or replace it with a damper. one person here took the rubber bushing out of their tq mount and filled it with the rubber from a mallet. I wouldn't try that, but if you're thinking of filling it then why not get one from a junk yard, cut out the whole bushing, and fill the whole thing with urethane? Just a thought.
__________________
It's good to go fast, but even better to be able to stop!!
2007 V6 Camry SE: TRD Air Filter, Power Slot Rotors, Hawk PC pads, Techna-Fit Braided Steel Brake Lines
whether that part is called a motor mount, torque arm or whatever...
while there were no signs of cracks, i loaded the engine up on the brakes in drive and that arm bottoms out with little effort.
i also got a chance to try some different first gear rolls on not so wet pavement, doesn't matter what part of first.
if i can find that exact arm for cheap, i'll be ordering and filling it soon.
Good info. I figured they would call it some kind of tq mount. Keep us posted on how it works out cause that's obviously cheaper than buying a damper. The cheapest universal damper that I've seen I believe was the NRG damper for $89.99 and the next one is the Ingalls Stiffy for $173.50, but if you got a damper you would then need to spend more money on spacers to make it hold in place properly. If this works out well I might try both the filled stock mount and a damper to decide which I like best. lol!
__________________
It's good to go fast, but even better to be able to stop!!
2007 V6 Camry SE: TRD Air Filter, Power Slot Rotors, Hawk PC pads, Techna-Fit Braided Steel Brake Lines
I've filled many mounts and installed mount inserts over the years. It does help but you're also at the mercy of the 'other mounts' that aren't fillable.
Another option is an engine torque damper brace. This is something you can fabricate by yourself. Its a simple shock absorber mounted to the engine and frame to reduce the engine from bouncing around. If you've ever seen or driven a vehicle with blown shocks bouncing around, you'll understand what your engine is doing since there isn't much rebound or compression control in those stock cushy motor mounts.
I've also installed poly bushing in plenty of control arms. These were were usually more effective than filling the mounts as much of the wheel hop is from the control arm winding up and releasing, caused by overly flexible stock bushings.
I believe that whiteline.com.au might have front upgraded bushings. I'm kind of surprised that EnergySuspension, Prothane, .... haven't come out with too many new applications over the years. They might be sleeping in the R&D department.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
Yep. WhiteLine does sell replacement control arm bushings for the front and rear, but you have to press those bushings in. If you're going to do them yourself it would be a pain in the butt unless you had the right tools to do it and a mechanic would charge you a lot to do it.
As far as the tq damper, that's what I was talking about in the previous posts. You shouldn't need to make a bracket since the car already has a tq mount bar (they call it a tq strut mount) with rubber bushings instead of a damper. To mount a damper in it's place would be simple cause all you would need is the damper and some spacers to fill in the space from the spherical bearings to the mounts.
I've checked Energy Suspension and Prothane too. I guess they don't feel enough people would be interested in them so they haven't spent the time and money in the R&D for it.
__________________
It's good to go fast, but even better to be able to stop!!
2007 V6 Camry SE: TRD Air Filter, Power Slot Rotors, Hawk PC pads, Techna-Fit Braided Steel Brake Lines
so i Finally got around to filling my top torque mount, Wow does that 3m windo-weld take forever to dry.
Something feels firmer, not sure what. maybe a tiny bit of vibration transfer increase.. but long story short, this did NOTHING to help my wheel hop. if i flat punch it, it will Pound away until i let out (or sometimes the engine cuts power briefly, i assume it recognizes throttle over a given time with minimal speed increase)
before i can get to the shop to inspect myself, does anyone know if the hydraulic motor mounts can be drained/cleaned and filled with urethane?
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