5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I believe our cars come with iridium plugs, which are good for 100k miles. so they should not need to be replaced yet. the 4cyl is easy to change though so if you wanted to it wouldnt hurt and would only take about 10 mins, or you could always just take one out and inspect it.
have you changed your air filter lately. thats one thing o would look into changing
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I believe our cars come with iridium plugs, which are good for 100k miles. so they should not need to be replaced yet. the 4cyl is easy to change though so if you wanted to it wouldnt hurt and would only take about 10 mins, or you could always just take one out and inspect it.
have you changed your air filter lately. thats one thing o would look into changing
Thanks for the info. I have replaced the drop in filter with a K&N CAI, so I don't think that will be the culprit. I will take a look at the plugs and see what they look like. As you noted, it can't hurt. Thanks!
Aftermarket air filter can be culprit if it hasn't been cleaned in a while, or if too much oil was used.
Do an overnight battery disconnect.
Plugs do last a long time. But, this doesn't mean you shouldn't change them, or at least inspect them. I find that the gap can be overly wide when the plug has been used a long time. Either replace or regap your plugs.
Carbon buildup in the engine could cause the knock sensor to 'work'. Run few bottle of quality FI cleaner(like 3m, BG44k, Redline SI1, Amsoil, Techron Concentrate...) in your next few tanks of gas. Always stick with top tier fuel to reduce valve, CC, and piston crud buildup.
By 64k, I definitely change the ATF, PSF, and coolant.
I'd even put in a new OE thermostat to make sure that the engine is running at optimum temp. 5 years is plenty for thermostat. A few degrees warmer won't be noticed but could also exercise that knock sensor.
Check your tire pressure. As winter comes, PSI will drop. And, the difference between 28psi and 35psi is very noticeable.
Clean your vehicle out. I had a friend complaining about MPG and power in his car.
After emptying 150lbs of useless junk from inside the vehicle and trunk, no more complaints. I'm surprised on how much stuff is left inside a hoarder's vehicle.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
The Following User Says Thank You to deadrx7conv For This Useful Post:
Aftermarket air filter can be culprit if it hasn't been cleaned in a while, or if too much oil was used.
Do an overnight battery disconnect.
Plugs do last a long time. But, this doesn't mean you shouldn't change them, or at least inspect them. I find that the gap can be overly wide when the plug has been used a long time. Either replace or regap your plugs.
Carbon buildup in the engine could cause the knock sensor to 'work'. Run few bottle of quality FI cleaner(like 3m, BG44k, Redline SI1, Amsoil, Techron Concentrate...) in your next few tanks of gas. Always stick with top tier fuel to reduce valve, CC, and piston crud buildup.
By 64k, I definitely change the ATF, PSF, and coolant.
I'd even put in a new OE thermostat to make sure that the engine is running at optimum temp. 5 years is plenty for thermostat. A few degrees warmer won't be noticed but could also exercise that knock sensor.
Check your tire pressure. As winter comes, PSI will drop. And, the difference between 28psi and 35psi is very noticeable.
Clean your vehicle out. I had a friend complaining about MPG and power in his car.
After emptying 150lbs of useless junk from inside the vehicle and trunk, no more complaints. I'm surprised on how much stuff is left inside a hoarder's vehicle.
What is the proper gap measurement for the spark plugs?
I had a fuel system flush/clean done about 10K miles ago. Do you recommend that I do this again? What is the frequency for such a service?
My car is clean with no real extra baggage in the car or the trunk. I keep my car spotless.
I have heard mixed messages regarding changing the ATF. I don't want to jeopardize the transmission getting jacked up. I have heard that the majority of owners state to just leave this alone. What are your thoughts on this?
You'll have to reference your factory service manual for gap. I believe that mine are set to 1mm. I use machinists feeler gauges to set gap. I do not use or recommend the junk gauges from the local autopart store. Sparkplugs .com is a good place to check for more info.
Fuel system flush/clean? What kind of overpriced nonsense is that. You should toss in a bottle of FI cleaner at every oil change interval. Fuel systems don't need and flushing or cleaning other than the occasional bottle of FI cleaner. If you use top tier fuel always, I'd save and grab a bottle of FI cleaner at every 2nd-3rd oil change interval.
The world would save tons of fuel if EVERYONE kept their cars as spotless as yours.
There has never been a transmission 'jacked up' with a fluid change. Definitely do it! Anyone that claims failure 'cause of a ATF change is a liar. Its just the nonsense internet hearsay that everyone repeats.
Both of my Toyotas get better MPG with 89 octane. I wonder if Toyota has overly sensitive knock sensors. Its worth running 89 a couple times and compare with your 87 results if you stick with the cheapeast lowest octane stuff. With cool winter air, I shouldn't really need anything more than 87 but will stick with 89 to see how it goes.
__________________
Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
The Following User Says Thank You to deadrx7conv For This Useful Post:
You'll have to reference your factory service manual for gap. I believe that mine are set to 1mm. I use machinists feeler gauges to set gap. I do not use or recommend the junk gauges from the local autopart store. Sparkplugs .com is a good place to check for more info.
Fuel system flush/clean? What kind of overpriced nonsense is that. You should toss in a bottle of FI cleaner at every oil change interval. Fuel systems don't need and flushing or cleaning other than the occasional bottle of FI cleaner. If you use top tier fuel always, I'd save and grab a bottle of FI cleaner at every 2nd-3rd oil change interval.
The world would save tons of fuel if EVERYONE kept their cars as spotless as yours.
There has never been a transmission 'jacked up' with a fluid change. Definitely do it! Anyone that claims failure 'cause of a ATF change is a liar. Its just the nonsense internet hearsay that everyone repeats.
Both of my Toyotas get better MPG with 89 octane. I wonder if Toyota has overly sensitive knock sensors. Its worth running 89 a couple times and compare with your 87 results if you stick with the cheapeast lowest octane stuff. With cool winter air, I shouldn't really need anything more than 87 but will stick with 89 to see how it goes.
As far as ATF goes you can just do a drain/refill. For the mechanically inclined drop the pan and change the filter as well. Valvoline's fully synthetic MaxLife ATF is suitable for T-IV and WS applications.
The laser iridium plugs with a platinum ground pad is good for 120K miles. See www.ngksparkplugs.com
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