5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Finally putting an end to the oil change controversy
So for the past 60K miles I've been running nothing but synthetic oil. Changing it every 3k. So I decided to see what my oil looks like performance wise after an oil change. Used the tried and true 3k interval for my first test and here's what I got
Going to try 5k next and go from there. Looks like the 2gr wears pretty well, even tho it sounds like a diesel in the morning. Haha.
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Seatbelt! you're piloting a vehicle were dual vvt-i hitts harder then VTEC and the torquesteer can possibly snap your wrists
Looks good. What is the driving style? If its mostly highway with rapid miles the engine has a pretty easy life as indicated by the oil condition. Analyzing many UOA's 6-7k is usually the tipping point even with extended interval oils. The oil may still be good at that point, but the contaminants begin to spike. People go longer, but I just don't see the financial risk in doing that. What filter are you using? That also becomes more important the farther you extend.
Looks good. What is the driving style? If its mostly highway with rapid miles the engine has a pretty easy life as indicated by the oil condition. Analyzing many UOA's 6-7k is usually the tipping point even with extended interval oils. The oil may still be good at that point, but the contaminants begin to spike. People go longer, but I just don't see the financial risk in doing that. What filter are you using? That also becomes more important the farther you extend.
I do drive allot of highway mileage. But I'm also pretty hard on the car. She sees redline atleast a few times a day. But I would t say I beat on it. Also, I'm currently using genuine Toyota oil filters. Have about 1500 miles on the oil in there now. I'll be changing it around 5-6k and will be getting another annalsys done.
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Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man!
Quote:
Seatbelt! you're piloting a vehicle were dual vvt-i hitts harder then VTEC and the torquesteer can possibly snap your wrists
My Camry has never seen RPMs even close to red line and I don't want to be in any vehicle,any time,any place that is seeing the red line.Regards
There is nothing wrong with taking your motor to redline. Your motor has been factory tested to be able to perform past its redline. The whole reason a hard redline or (Fuel Cut) redline is put in place it to save the motor from over revving and causing damage to the valve-train. Just because you bring your rpms up or hit redline you are not going to damage your car. In fact on the V6 you do not even begin to feel the true power until above 4k RPMS when the dual VVT-I kicks in.
So you have nothing to worry about.. Running full synthetic is also another great safety feature for your motor... Just my .02 cents
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There is nothing wrong with taking your motor to redline. Your motor has been factory tested to be able to perform past its redline. The whole reason a hard redline or (Fuel Cut) redline is put in place it to save the motor from over revving and causing damage to the valve-train. Just because you bring your rpms up or hit redline you are not going to damage your car. In fact on the V6 you do not even begin to feel the true power until above 4k RPMS when the dual VVT-I kicks in.
So you have nothing to worry about.. Running full synthetic is also another great safety feature for your motor... Just my .02 cents
My Camry has never seen RPMs even close to red line and I don't want to be in any vehicle,any time,any place that is seeing the red line.Regards
Hitting redline isn't the end of the wold. The engine is designed to be driven throughout its operating range. The v6 makes its max horsepower just shy of redline.. 6200 RPM. in the lotus evora the 2gr-fe revs up to 7000 rpm.
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Thanks netforcer for the awsome sig! You da man!
Quote:
Seatbelt! you're piloting a vehicle were dual vvt-i hitts harder then VTEC and the torquesteer can possibly snap your wrists
Hitting redline isn't the end of the wold. The engine is designed to be driven throughout its operating range. The v6 makes its max horsepower just shy of redline.. 6200 RPM. in the lotus evora the 2gr-fe revs up to 7000 rpm.
That's even better to know.
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Originally Posted by aznlunatic206
I love getting my 2GR up near redline, its sooo fun
I tried going 4-5k today and it flies. Gotta love the 2GR.
So for the past 60K miles I've been running nothing but synthetic oil. Changing it every 3k.
sorry mate, but it's triple over protection.
hope you got free oil source somewhere .
I've been running full synthetic in my 2001 form 30K all the way up to 140K with 9-10K intervals.
at 120K VC cover was opened and engine was very clean and neat. no problems, no smoke,no oil consumption, no side noises.
same with my 2007 2.4: 9-10K intervals on Valvoline Synpower.
I've seen many full synthetic oil tests and all of them state the same:
full synt. oil under normal driving conditions good up to at least 15K.
some state that Mobil 1 and other top brands oils can go up to 20K and only after that level of anti wear additives and contaminants getting out of safe limits.
of course it is my car and my opinion and you might have different one.
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Just throwing this out there for your diesel sound on cold starts. There is a TSB to fix that. its for the cam gears and also the cams need to be replaced. I used to work for toyota and would see this twice a week on the 2gr motors and also the 2ar motors. Its basically lacking oil flow on cold starts.
2grfe do wear well. But, it seems to take about 20k for them to fully break in.
Your driving style isn't stressing the oil. Most 30wts will hit 20w in visc and this oil hasn't sheared too much. TBN is excellent. 10ppm total wear is pretty much nil. "TR" is pretty much nil for insolubles meaning filter is doing a great job, along with engine not loading the oil up with junk.
Since Castrol is playing the marketing label confusion game, is this the 'black bottle' or 'gold bottle' of oil?
These engines tend to be noisy, even with the TSB fix.
Some newer Toyota's are pushing 10k intervals with 0w20(which is full synthetic). Any new synthetic oil should have no problem with 10k intervals if the driving style allows it. The UOA is proof on your driving style.
Every engine has a total amount that it can give you. No two engines are identical. It could last a 1000000 miles or 500 miles. Engine wear is exponential when considering RPM. The more you abuse it, the more quickly you kill it. The goal for many is to replace their disposable vehicles before the expensive parts fail usually after that 60th payment or after the warranty expires. If its in your budget, then drive like the devil and don't change your oil. For some of us, that 3k, 5k, 7.5k oil change is great inusrance for longevity. For some of us, not spending time at redline is great insurance for longevity. Other engine driven components also have a shortened life at excessive rpm....AC compressor, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, idler pulleys... And, gotta love the stress a transmission takes when comparing a 3000rpm shift to a 6200rpm shift. Always drive within your budget!
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
The Following User Says Thank You to deadrx7conv For This Useful Post:
I started using full synthetic on my 09 camry 4cyl. the question i have is, if 5w-20, which is the same grade as the normal i was using is the same with the synthetic they just put in my car, that means the viscosity is the same, then whats the gain of the synthetic then? just curious, not about to start a debate. This is because the viscosity recommended for my engine from factory is 5w-20, so toyota is obliged to replace the oil with the same viscosity.
The dealer isn't obliged to do anything. They'll fill it with whatever bulk oil they have. And, 'recommended' isn't the same as 'required'.
The bottle label is just to simplify oil weight choices for the consumers who typically don't know what it means anyway.
When comparing a synth 5w20 to a regular 5w20 depends on the brand. Typically, the synthetic will have better CCV, MRV, VI, prpnt, flshpt, bpt, hths, ..... numbers. In a well maintained engine that doesn't stress the oil, oil type usually doesn't make a difference. When you throw in different types of stress(cold starts, excessive oil temps, low sump level, excessive lead footed driving)... the synthetic will outperform the mineral oil.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
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Finally putting an end to the oil change controversy
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