08 Camry LE Aftermarket Amp Turning Off and LOC Noise problem?

[gooji18x]

Hello, I am new to this forum so thanks for all the help in advance =]
NOTE: I am pretty new at this audio stuff, i'm trying to save some money and learn at the same time.

1. My problem is that my amp keeps on turning off after about 10 minutes or so of driving. If I leave my car there with the audio on though, it can run for 1 hour +. The only way I can get my amp to turn back on after that is if I unplug my negative on my battery, then plug it back on. Then my amp will turn back on for about 10 minutes of driving....Then back off again.

2. Also my auto locks with my remote won't work if my amp is plugged in. I have no idea why that is.

3. There is also a feedback type of noise or humming coming from my speakers regardless if I have music on or not. This only is present when my amp is on.

4. Also, my car radio does not turn on or off by itself when my amp is on, I have to do this manually. There is also a THWUMP noise when I turn my car radio on. Is this normal? I also noticed that my amp is constantly on regardless if I have my keys in the ignition of not. Did i wire something wrong?
I followed a wiring diagram, but since it's always on, does this mean I wired something wrong?

I will provide some info on the equipment I am using. If you guys could help me out a bit, that would be awesome. Be easy please! I'm learning



I recently installed: With Factory radio and 2 Line out converters

LOC:
PAC SOEM-T 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On Trigger for the subwoofer

PAC SOEM-4 4-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On Trigger for the front door speakers

Front Door Speakers:
Polk Audio MM6501

Amp:
CPT4-1400
1,400 Watt 4 Channel Amplifier

Sub:
JL Audio 12w3v5

[leakyseals]

There should be an auxiliary wire, usually blue coming out of the radio. That will sync the amp with the radio for power. As far as cutting out, surges etc. you need to measure voltage at the amp, verify connections and make sure the chassis ground is good. The chassis ground needs to be scraped away from the overcoat for best results.

[gooji18x]

I made sure that i sanded away the paint before I grounded the wire to the chassis.

I kept my factory head unit there and I just added LOCs and amp

I installed one LOC right behind my headunit and the other one in the trunk next to my amp.

I checked the amp before and it doesn't seem to heat up after awhile.

My locks work, but only if use my keys and manually unlock it via key hole. my remote controller unlock no longer works if my amp is turned on.

I have the 4 gauge power wire coming from the positive terminal of my battery and routed back to the trunk on the drivers side. my rca's and blue remote wire are routed back on the passengers side.

Yes whenever I turn on my radio, i hear the thwump sound.

My blue remote wire is connected to the: 3.Grey (GR) Accessory power [switched on with the ignition switch] +12v and routed back to the amp.

I connected speaker cable from my amp to the crossovers i have for the speakers. Then from there, i hooked up the tweeters and speakers to the crossovers which are located right about the driver and passenger foot area. In the cavity/free space with other wires.

I just used the information below to wire from the factory wires to the LOC


F6 Pins:

1.Light Green (LG) Front Right (FR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Pink (P) Front Left (FL) plus (+) speakers
3.Grey (GR) Accessory power [switched on with the ignition switch] +12v
4.Light Blue with Yellow Stripe (L-Y) always +12v [radio memory]
5.Light Blue (L) Front Right (FR) minus (-) speakers return
6.Violet (V) Front Left (FR) minus (-) speakers return
7.Brown (BR) Ground (GND) radio ground
8.Orange (O) Antenna Amplifier (ANT) power source
9. No Connection
10.Green (G) Night Lighting [+12 when the taillights are turned on]

F7 Pins:

1.Red (R) Rear Right (RR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Black (B) Rear Left (RL) plus (+) speakers source
3.White (W) Rear Right (RR) minus (-) speakers return
4.No Connection
5.White Black (W-B) Lighting Intensity [Pull down circuit, voltage level drops {Bright Dash Lights}or raises {dim Dash Lights} Caution with this one, DO NOT CONNECT DIRECTLY TO +12 VOLTS, you will mess up your instrument panel cluster.
6.Yellow (Y) Rear Left (RL) minus (-) speakers return

F8 Pins:

1.No Connection
2.No Connection
3.Violet (V) Speed Pulse Connection (SPD) [Pulses from the speed sensors applied here. This is for the automatic sound level system. The volume raises when the speed is above a specified level, if enabled.]
4.No Connection
5.No Connection
6.Pink (P) Steering Wheel (Switch) Ground (SWG)[common]
7.Orange (O) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) one (SW1) [source for Seek+, Seek-, Volume+, & Volume-]
8.Yellow (Y) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) two (SW2) [source for Mode, (if equipped On Hook, Off Hook & Voice)
9.No Connection
10.No Connection
11.No Connection
12.No Connection
13.No Connection
14.No Connection
15.Orange (O) Auxiliary Right Input (ARI)
16.Brown (BR ) Auxiliary Shield Ground (ASGN)
17.Red (R) Auxiliary Left Input (ALI)
18.No Connection
19.Green (G) Auxiliary Input [Sense](AUXI)
20.No Connection