2004 Camry electrical issue

[ddecarlo]

I was removing a remote starter off of my 04 camry because it no longer worked. After I removed it i noticed that the radio and clock were not working. I checked the blue/red accessory wire on the ignition harness and noticed it looked like it had seen better days. So i decided to make the connect more solid by cutting the weak point and crimping it back together. Now I put the key in and turn it to run and I ONLY get the CEL light, the airbag light and the brake light(parking brake is engaged). I cant utilze the windows, it wont even attempt to crank, the a/c and heat dont work now. I checked all the wires in the area of the ignition harness and all are solid connection (tested with a voltmeter). I have tried to jump start the car with another car as well as unhooking the battery for 2 hours and nothing has changed. I also triple checked every single fuse i can see in the passenger compartment and under the hood and all are good. I also checked the circuit board behind the fuse panel under the dash and everything looked ok. I am at a lose for what might be wrong and I am hoping someone can help.

[ddecarlo]

anyone?? i have tested the blue/red accessory wire and I am getting under 30 ohms of resistance in the wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block. Same for the white wire in the ignition switch. I dont know if this helps any.

[HotRod53]

Man, I sit here really wanting to give you some help, but other than checking all fuses, I'm at a loss

Surely you had you battery disconnected when you did this, right? That should eliminate any chances of blowing a fuse if you did. Speaking strictly with reference to older cars, and having wired a 1966 GTO from scratch, there were multiple wires on the solenoid that fed the AUX circuits in the fusebox. You are sure there were no wires left off of a terminal on the starter and all wires were put back on to the right terminals? Short of looking at a wiring diagram of the starter and solenoid wiring, not sure what else it could be. What about the Maxi fuses, did you check the big ones?

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by ddecarlo

anyone?? i have tested the blue/red accessory wire and I am getting under 30 ohms of resistance in the wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block. Same for the white wire in the ignition switch. I dont know if this helps any.

I have access to an 03 camry wiring diagram(I don't know how close the wiring is, or if the wires colors for a particular wire are the same).
According to the 03 diagram, the blu/rd wire (IGN sw. ACC. out) and the white wire(+12v to the IGN. switch) should not measure anything close to 30 Ohms, they should measure around 0 Ohms between the IGN. switch and the fuse box(connector to connector).
HTH
JerryR

[ddecarlo]

Originally Posted by JerryR

I have access to an 03 camry wiring diagram(I don't know how close the wiring is, or if the wires colors for a particular wire are the same).
According to the 03 diagram, the blu/rd wire (IGN sw. ACC. out) and the white wire(+12v to the IGN. switch) should not measure anything close to 30 Ohms, they should measure around 0 Ohms between the IGN. switch and the fuse box(connector to connector).
HTH
JerryR

So there is a chance that i need to find a way to replace those two wires (connector to connector). and that it may not be the anti-theft system, which I am hoping it isnt.

[leakyseals]

Unfortunately its difficult to diagnose exactly how you removed the remote starter and what was involved (kill switch, etc). Some pictures would be helpful. If your stuck, put it all back, get it to work as it was, then remove it again. By crimping you mean? you can always try electrical twist caps for now, then solder and heat shrink in the future.

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by ddecarlo

So there is a chance that i need to find a way to replace those two wires (connector to connector). and that it may not be the anti-theft system, which I am hoping it isnt.

My gut feeling tells me it's something to do with whatever it was that you removed, possibly missing a ground. were you working around /removing the fuse panel?. The 03 shows a ground point in that area, that if missing or bad connection would account for a lot of your problems.
In your earlier post you mentioned among the problems, that it did'nt even attempt to crank, do you hear the starter relay click? do you hear *any* relays click?
with so many function not working
Are the 2 wires(WHT & BLU/RD) part of what was involved in the remote starter installation?were they disconnected when you removed the remote start?
I would not rush to replace those 2 wires(don't forget - what I'm looking at is the wiring diagram for an 03, the 04 may be slightly different, like an extra connector in the path). It is a little too coincidental that 2 wires increased resistance at the same time.
How & where EXACTLY are you measuring the resistance.
Do you have the install manual for the remote start, can you tell us how and where it was hooked up?

HTH
JerryR

[ddecarlo]

I was only working around the ignition harness. but I will double check for any grounds missing near the fuse panel.

I do not hear any relays click when the key turns to the acc poistion, run position, or start position.

I unwrapped the loop from the ignition harness and the blu/red and wht run from the ignition harness directly to the fuse panel. I was testing for continuity from the ignition harness plug to the fuse panel plug.

the blu/red was part of installing the remote starter but after removing it i made sure i had a good solder connection.

I think the wires are good just trying to figure out why non of the relays click when the key gets turned to any position

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by ddecarlo

I was only working around the ignition harness. but I will double check for any grounds missing near the fuse panel.

I do not hear any relays click when the key turns to the acc poistion, run position, or start position.

I unwrapped the loop from the ignition harness and the blu/red and wht run from the ignition harness directly to the fuse panel. I was testing for continuity from the ignition harness plug to the fuse panel plug.

the blu/red was part of installing the remote starter but after removing it i made sure i had a good solder connection.

I think the wires are good just trying to figure out why non of the relays click when the key gets turned to any position

If you can actually *see* the white and bl/rd wires and there is nothing in the path between the connectors other than the wire itself(no connectors, no splices) and you are reading close to 30 Ohm, either there are bad crimps in the connectors or your ohmeter is defective.
try this: take a piece of wire a foot long and measure the resistance if it's more than 1 ohm your ohmeter is either defective or was not zeroed properly.
BTW was this remote start part of an alarm system that incorporated a "starter kill" function?
HTH
JerryR

[ddecarlo]

ok I may have typed it wrong. I did test the ohmmeter and it read zero. The ohmmeter I have beeps at anything under 30 ohms of resistance and it shows 0 ohms on both wires between plugs. and the remote starter did not include a "starter kill" function.

[JerryR]

OK so those wires are probably OK.
See my signature? send me your Email(don't post it here), I'll scan some pages that hopfully can help you trace the wiring.
Tell me if it's 4 or 6 cyl., auto/manual trans.
HTH
JerryR

[ddecarlo]

email sent

[BadChicken]

check the starter wire from the switch to the relay

[ddecarlo]

Well after a couple days and many many emails with JerryR I have found the problem. I had checked all the fuses multiple times and everytime everything was good. after a lot of voltahe and ohm testing i decided to crab a new fuse and try that. Sure enough it was only a fuse, even though the fuse was good. Again thank you JerryR for all the diagrams and help.