I4, would you say that it is as quiet on startup as it is after a few miles?

[HotRod53]

I had my I4 in to the dealer and he said that he heard the noise I reported and it was the alternator. They replaced it and I would say that it is better. STILL, my valves seem to make more noise when cold as compared to after it has run for a few miles.

My warranty is only 30 days and if I have a VVT issue, I want it fixed. If I'm just anal and not used to the normal noise of an I4, than I need to deal with it. My motor has 93K and this is teh first I4 that I ever owned.

Would you say the your I4 is noisier when cold as compared to once it has warmed up?

[aagitch]

I wouldn't considered mine noisy when it's cold but it is louder. It's pretty quiet for a 4-banger when it's warm.

[LECAMRY09]

I would say it is louder during start up. Both of my Camrys were I4 and I noticed the same thing.
After warm up it quiets down. Just have to get used to it. In the warmer months there is barely a difference.

[leakyseals]

My I4 was left for dead by the prior owner. I got it cheap with a ton of problems including huge oil consumption, blowing blue smoke, really rough idle and a terrible startup tick. quiet as a mouse at almost 190k now. Except for the classic toyota starter noise there are no ticks, vvt-i, lifter, nothing even on the coldest days. I can hear stuff like the belts, pcv, alternator, compressor, etc..you wouldn't know its running except for that. I'm real anal about startup ticks or any noise. I just changed my PS fluid tonight because I want things as quiet as possible. With TLC it can be done without a teardown. It took me 15k to get it right.

[HotRod53]

Whew... you guys are making me feel better, thought it was just mine!

LeakySeals, what do you mean it took you 15K to get it right, what did you do? Just change oil and get the gunk out, or something else? I have records proving that this one had regular oil changes. My dealer laughed, having known me for 5 years, he said this car is the right one for you knowing how you take care of your stuff. I think that he was right based on the records.

[BlackCamSe]

my V6 sounds like shit in the morning. Classic 2GR piston slap, some upper end noise. Been doing it since it was new. Once warm not a sound. Pretty much all of toyotas engines tick like hell, but they never quit running.

[leakyseals]

Originally Posted by HotRod53

Whew... you guys are making me feel better, thought it was just mine!

LeakySeals, what do you mean it took you 15K to get it right, what did you do? Just change oil and get the gunk out, or something else? I have records proving that this one had regular oil changes. My dealer laughed, having known me for 5 years, he said this car is the right one for you knowing how you take care of your stuff. I think that he was right based on the records.

I would say sludge and varnish accounted for 75% of the engine noise in my I4. Including the rough idle. no matter what the salesman has for records, oil changes with dino will eventually build up some gunk. you can run like that for hundreds of thousands of miles, but the vvt-i will be off just a little with the gunk, and make some noise. If you don't care about that, use whatever oil you want. If you want it quiet, no vvt-i chatter, you gotta use synthetic. The new dino oils are much better the past couple of years (the SN oils). There is no magic potion to clean the internals quicker than a couple of oil changes. Knowing what I know now, keep the coolant up to date with fresh red, run a good synthetic, use a fuel injector cleaner with PEA occasionally. Do that, the cars quiet 15k (2 oil changes) later. I did the plugs, cleaned the TB, pulleys, bearings, etc. But the big 3 above, do that, have a quiet Toyota. My dad just got a 2012 xle v6. think Toyota agrees. 0w20 synthetic is the recommended fill. No dino.

[fatngs]

Originally Posted by BlackCamSe

Pretty much all of toyotas engines tick like hell, but they never quit running.

[arabianobsession]

Mine's always been noisy when cold since new, especially the starter when it gets below 10 degrees. Once it gets warm or she gets warm, all is well!

[Donald E. George]

Both the I4 and the V6 have adjustable valve clearance but not like the old OHV and even some OHC engines where all you need is a wrench and a feeler gage. The clearance on each valve probably averages something like .010 when the engine is cold. These clearance are somewhat less when the engine is at operating temperature. I'm guessing that the vvt-i doesn,t function until the engine is turning 4000 RPM. I believe I have read in my Toyota service manual that the variable valve timing on my 04 V6 comes in about 4800 RPM. In my case, the engine will never get anywhere close to that RPM and I don't want to be a passenger in any vehicle that's running that RPM. Regards

[BlackG5]

Originally Posted by BlackCamSe

my V6 sounds like shit in the morning. Classic 2GR piston slap, some upper end noise. Been doing it since it was new. Once warm not a sound. Pretty much all of toyotas engines tick like hell, but they never quit running.

winner.

my 2AZ is definitely louder when its cold, gets quiet after it heats up.

my mom's 2GR sounds like a goddam cummins in the morning

[arabianobsession]

Originally Posted by Donald E. George

Both the I4 and the V6 have adjustable valve clearance but not like the old OHV and even some OHC engines where all you need is a wrench and a feeler gage. The clearance on each valve probably averages something like .010 when the engine is cold. These clearance are somewhat less when the engine is at operating temperature. I'm guessing that the vvt-i doesn,t function until the engine is turning 4000 RPM. I believe I have read in my Toyota service manual that the variable valve timing on my 04 V6 comes in about 4800 RPM. In my case, the engine will never get anywhere close to that RPM and I don't want to be a passenger in any vehicle that's running that RPM. Regards

Better not hop in my car.....ever

[fatngs]

Originally Posted by arabianobsession

Better not hop in my car.....ever

[leakyseals]

Originally Posted by Donald E. George

Both the I4 and the V6 have adjustable valve clearance but not like the old OHV and even some OHC engines where all you need is a wrench and a feeler gage. The clearance on each valve probably averages something like .010 when the engine is cold. These clearance are somewhat less when the engine is at operating temperature. I'm guessing that the vvt-i doesn,t function until the engine is turning 4000 RPM. I believe I have read in my Toyota service manual that the variable valve timing on my 04 V6 comes in about 4800 RPM. In my case, the engine will never get anywhere close to that RPM and I don't want to be a passenger in any vehicle that's running that RPM. Regards

There is an additional cam lobe in play at certain RPM's which you describe above. One of the many but not the only features of VVT. But that feature is also set by the oil pressure at the time. There is coincidental RPM's at a certain oil pressure if that makes sense. Its easier to describe "this happens over 4k rpm " vs what I'm trying to explain.

Variable Valve Timing is controlled by oil pressure from the time you start the car to turning it off. This is directly from a Toyota TSB for a P1349 CEL code:

"The ECU controls the intake valve timing according to the driving conditons. The adjustment is performed by the VVT-controller that rotates the camshaft relatively to the crankshaft. The actuation of the VVT controller happens through oil pressure. This oil pressuer increase/decrease to to the VVT controller is controlled by the OCV (Oil Control Valve). The ECU continuously checks actual intake camshaft adjustment angle and compares this to the target setting and adjusts accordingly. If the difference between the actual angle and the target angle is too big, DTC "P1345" or "P1349" is stored in the ECU".

Translation - dont change your oil on time, use cheap dino, expect problems sooner or later. Ticks at startup, ticks all the time. Dieseling. All related to the oil passages being clogged and the VVT contoller being "slightly off".

Why I sing like a canary about using synthetics on vvt-i Toyotas. Why I also say DO NOT use Seafoam or any additive high in lubricants on a vvt. Just as one more example. People on here complain about ticking noises after using Seafoam. Seafoam is not motor oil. It is a heavy lubricant with some minor cleaners and some alcohol (seafoam was created in 1930 for water related problems in boats, hence the name and the 20% IPA alcohol) That stuff gets circulated into the vvti and changes oil pressure. Lowers oil pressure. So the VVT adjusts, leaves a gap. Here comes the ticks. Makes sense? and the stuff is stubborn, clings to the vvt-i, takes quite a while to remove itself. Kreen from Kano labs is a internal engine carbon cleaner, not a lubricant. Especially made for this purpose. If you get it running right its great. dont take care of it the car will sound like crap. The new 2012's run thin synthetics, dino no longer recommended. Makes sense to me. Bet most if not all the vvt problems disappear. I hope this helps people understand vvt, and how to keep your car "tick free".

[HotRod53]

Wow, quite impressive explanation. Here I sit post post seafoam , wish I knew this before. I guess I'll save the Seafoam for my outboard, which I bought it for in the first place. My oil was just changed, I'm thinking 0W20 synthetic on the next change.

I can't tell you how much better I feel now, knowing that it's not a ticking time bomb and I won't end up going back to me dealer and making a stink. I guess over all it had been worth looking into, he replaced the alternator I didn't even know it was bad, that helped quiet it down.

I think my alternator on my V6 XLE is going bad too, when my wife starts it on real cold days it sounds bad for a few seconds.