5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
After changing my oil filter for the first time, I noticed my housing for the oil filter is plastic.
To be honest this kinda makes me nervous for future changes. Obviously plastic wouldn't ever be my first choice for something that has to be changed out regularly.
Am I wrong in being nervous about a plastic housing? (dropped, stripped, cracked)
I saw pictures of these before I changed it and saw only metal housing.
It can crack down the road but it's pretty durable.....at the Toyota dealership I work at, we only come across a couple bad filter housings a month, and we see upwards of 3000+ cars.
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6 speed manual 2011 Camry SE
2012 Honda Accord Coupe---1995 Ford Mustang---1985 AMC Eagle
If you are worried about it cracking you can always swap it to the 2GRFE metal piece. It is nearly identical. I think IIRC even the tube in the center is the same length so it is just a direct swap.
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My Toyota list:
1982 Corolla SR-5 Hardtop 5 Speed Manual(R154) 1JZGTE
2005 Corolla CE 5 Speed Manual 1ZZFE
2009 Camry LE 5 Speed Auto 2AZFE
If I helped out in anyway please hit the thanks button on my post .
About to do the first oil change on mine. Only concern I have is that may have been over torqued at the factory. My concern is based on the way my Tacoma oil filter was torqued the first time. Similar experiences with the Camry? Mine a 2.5 btw.
I alleviated the problem by using JB weld.
The walmart Toyota housing tool would constantly slip..no matter how carefully I torqued the filter housing.
I run high miles and change the oil every 5000 miles...about 60 days.
I epoxied the tool right to the filter housing...no more problems.
Tacking on to this thread, I have a related question. I have a 2011 Camry LE V6. I have seen a couple different variiations of the oil change procedures and tools, so I want to be certain I have what I need before i start.
I have the filter drain cover that can be removed with a 3/8* ratchet, so no problem there. Also I see the filter housing needs a cap style filter wrench to remove. So is that all that's needed to get the filter element out??
I saw some other references to an additional gizmo/tool of some sort, but am not be sure that is needed on the 2011 V6. According to one set of instructions I found for some of V6's you just take of the housing and that is it.
I have the filter drain cover that can be removed with a 3/8* ratchet, so no problem there. Also I see the filter housing needs a cap style filter wrench to remove. So is that all that's needed to get the filter element out??
Yes; you only need the ratchet and the filter cap wrench.
Once you get the drain cover off with the 3.8" ratchet, you stick the plastic drain valve into the hole and it drains the filter of most of the oil. The plastic drain valve comes with every OEM filter element (and O-rings). If you do not use the drain valve, when you unscrew the filter cap, some oil will drip out the sides so be ready to catch it. I don't use the valve.....
The Following User Says Thank You to 08SalsaMax For This Useful Post:
The problem with most wrenches available locally is they slip if the torque is too high.
I was careful each time I torqued it back on...still seems like a pain to remove.
Don't waste your funds on the strap wrench either...not enough room to use it.
The Correct wrench from Toyota is about $30...I imagine the same problem will happen..and I'm not spending $30 to find out.
Manufacturers don't want you changing your own oil...they want the $75 per hour.
Use the Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640. Its made out of metal and it does not slip. AST640 is the one I use. You will need a 24mm socket and a ratchet. Been using it on my IS350 and Camry with no issues.
The problem with most wrenches available locally is they slip if the torque is too high.
I was careful each time I torqued it back on...still seems like a pain to remove.
Don't waste your funds on the strap wrench either...not enough room to use it.
The Correct wrench from Toyota is about $30...I imagine the same problem will happen..and I'm not spending $30 to find out.
Manufacturers don't want you changing your own oil...they want the $75 per hour.
Thanks 454. Actually I think I might have one of the correct wrenches around here, but cannot find it. Was using that one on my daughter's 2007 Corolla, but it is plastic and I heard the plastic ones may not be sturdy enough stay locked on the bigger housing type filters. Oh well, I suppose I will look for the metal version.
Use the Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640. Its made out of metal and it does not slip. AST640 is the one I use. You will need a 24mm socket and a ratchet. Been using it on my IS350 and Camry with no issues.
Glad you posted tht gs because that is why I had questions as to what was needed. Is that tool for removing the housing itself or something else? And if so, how does it work because what I see on the outside of my housing are edges that appear to fit a standard cap style filter wrench.
Use the Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640. Its made out of metal and it does not slip. AST640 is the one I use. You will need a 24mm socket and a ratchet. Been using it on my IS350 and Camry with no issues.
I use the same tool. Just be warned it will not remove EXTREMELY tight housings that are made of plastic such as on the 2AR-FE, 3UR-FE, 2ZR-FE and so forth. It will slip on those. For those I would use the dealership SST. Metal housings like the 2GR-FE, 3GR-FSE and so forth work great. On all except the 2ZR-FE(small housing) they should swapped to the metal housing to avoid this mess.
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My Toyota list:
1982 Corolla SR-5 Hardtop 5 Speed Manual(R154) 1JZGTE
2005 Corolla CE 5 Speed Manual 1ZZFE
2009 Camry LE 5 Speed Auto 2AZFE
If I helped out in anyway please hit the thanks button on my post .
Could someone kindly explain the use of the tool pictured at the link above? It is not obvious to me from the picture. How does it attach to the filter housing? Or is the picture trying to show it already in place on the housing or what?
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