5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
2004 Camry XLE 2AZ-FE I need to replace my timing chain tensioner because of a cold start rattle that does disapear after a few seconds. It may do it during operation but I can't tell. The problem is I can't even see it let alone get to it. I understand it's under the engine main harness junction secured with 2 bolts. I can see that,and one bolt.
What do I need to take off to get to this harness junction??(big hands) It seems, once I can get to the tensioner RR seems easy. Any help,would help. Thanks ahead of time
Replacing the tensioner may not help. Depending on how many miles you have on the car, the timing chanin my be beyond it's maximum elongation which I believe is about 4.5 inches. The wear in each one of the chain links adds up over time. The tensioner slipper and vibration slipper may also be beyond their maximum wear value which is 1mm each. You have to take the crankshaft pulley off and remove the timing chain cover to get to all of those components. Unless you have the right tools and experience, you might want to have a shop with ASE mechanics do the work.Regards
It could be a bigger problem than I think. I was just trying to go the easiest (cheapist) route first. I don't think it's a bad chain. I bought the car new and have been regular with oil changes every 3-5 thousand miles.
There doesn't seem to be any performance issues. It now has 133,000 miles on it and from what I read the chain should be good to 200,000 miles. Not that stuff doesn't happen. The tensioner from Toyota is about $75. I just can't seem to get to it. Gotta be a trick or technique. Toyota wants $275 parts and labor. I'll give the forum some time and maybe somebody has the fix.
Thanks for your input
Your cold start 'rattle' that disappears in a few seconds may be valve train clatter. This happens at cold start-up (e.g. after an overnight rest) when the oil filter anti-drain back valve (ADBV) leaks and doesn't hold any oil in the filter. Sometimes the oil in the filter will totally leak out overnight when the ADBV randomly doesn't seal completely. You'll hear a clatter (or chatter) that lasts for a second or two until the empty filter can re-fill and send oil to the upper part of the engine where the valve train is.
I use Mobil 1 oil filters (M1-102) with my 3.0L V6 and have noticed that every once in a while the filter's silicone ADBV will allow oil to leak out overnight and I get the valve train chatter on cold starts. This random oil leak-down can happen with any brand of oil filter. And, if you are experiencing (what may be) dry valve train chatter with every cold start - your oil filter's anti-drain back valve may be the problem, which can be fixed with a simple replacement of the oil filter. Then again...your problem may indeed be your timing chain or tensioner, but I wouldn't think the noise would go away after a few seconds.
Since the oil filter is sitting open-end UP and low,,, how could it possibly drain-out ???.
Maybe if it was sideways or upside-down. Not the case here !!!
Right you are! I was unaware the I4 had its oil filter mounted low and vertically, with the hole up. If that's the case, then the filter is always filled with oil and doesn't even need a anti-drain back valve. That's not the case with the 3.0L V6 (like I have), which is mounted above the sump level and horizontally oriented.
Light the bulb floating over your head. Even if the oil filter is full, it doesn't tell you that all the oil passages/circuits, above and beyond the filter, are full. Gravity drains those passages back through the filter. ADBV's tend to be slow leaks. Whether a filter is right side up, sideways, or up side down, is not the variable that determines if the ADBV is needed. Whether a filter is full, or not, is not the determining variable either.
OP can easily experiment over the next 3-4 3k oil change intervals with different oils and filters.
I'd also clean/check the VVT filter.
If the valves are properly adjusted, and if the noise can not be quenched with different oils/filters, then do the complete chain/tensioner replacement.
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