5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
If you look at the picture in post #1, it looks like the the connector from the red wire is really needed on the black wire and vice versa.
Why did they make it like that since it sounds like "loop type wire lug" is on the red wire instead of the black one. And what's on the black wire looks to be exactly what's need on the red for the fuse tap, doesn't it?
If you look at the picture in post #1, it looks like the the connector from the red wire is really needed on the black wire and vice versa.
Why did they make it like that since it sounds like "loop type wire lug" is on the red wire instead of the black one. And what's on the black wire looks to be exactly what's need on the red for the fuse tap, doesn't it?
Which might be better, for your application (low current draw) as it will not spread the female connection the fuse plugs into in the fuse block.
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 2, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010
Euro Style Tail Light Set for 07 on an 11, Mod 1
"Still Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
The Following User Says Thank You to Luna2 For This Useful Post:
1. Ground the Black wire to metal part of the car. for example:
2. Look at your car's manual to see which fuse is not being used by your car. In my case it was a 20A Seat Heater fuse.
Be sure to select a fuse which controls a part that is not permanently ON if you want the power to only be ON after you set the ignition power ON.
3. Get a Fuse Power Tap from your Auto Parts store, for example Part # 85606 from here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4/85606.oapand
Connect the Red 12V line from your adaptor to it and insert one end of your fuse in between here:
so that when you put the fuse back in, it looks like this:
To make sure the Fuse Power Tap is on the correct side,
before putting in the fuse, try to get power directly to the Fuse Power Tap,
(without the fuse itself being in, just the Fuse Power Tap.)
The correct side is the side where you get NO POWER if there is no fuse present.
You might want to consider covering the exposed portion of that fuse tap and the exposed portion of your crimped on connector with some electrical tape.
What about the tap being on the correct side of the fuse, how do you tell which side is the correct side?
Put an open fuse in, and test for voltage on each end, or probe the socket with a meter probe, and the other probe of the meter should be on a known good ground with the meter set to volts.
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 2, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010
Euro Style Tail Light Set for 07 on an 11, Mod 1
"Still Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
So if I have everything working now, do I still need to check for this?
The lowest amperage fuse or the fuse with the most current will always open first in a tapped series setup. The added circuit is dependent on the original fuse.
If the add a fuse is on the power source side, you have 2 independent circuits, each on their own fuse.
Either will work depending on the current load.
If it isn't broke, and you are happy, don't fix it...
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 2, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010
Euro Style Tail Light Set for 07 on an 11, Mod 1
"Still Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
The Following User Says Thank You to Luna2 For This Useful Post:
Luna2, they are telling me two things I am concerned about. They are saying "I jammed two things into that fuse socket and it now has the potential for a loose or high resistant connection. A high resistant connection will generate quite a bit of heat, enough to melt the plastic and surround insulation in that fuse panel, which is a quick way to burn your car down."
To that I said It is connected to the Seat Heater 20A fuse and there is no Seat Heater in the Camry.
Does the overheating complaint hold any water in my case?
And 2. They are saying "...there is nothing wrong with the way he tapped off the fuse as long as the tap is on the correct side of the fuse."
Well, I don't know if I have, I mean it works, and I sure don't want to mess with it other than to maybe wrap it up in some electric tape.
Luna2, they are telling me two things I am concerned about. They are saying "I jammed two things into that fuse socket and it now has the potential for a loose or high resistant connection. A high resistant connection will generate quite a bit of heat, enough to melt the plastic and surround insulation in that fuse panel, which is a quick way to burn your car down."
To that I said It is connected to the Seat Heater 20A fuse and there is no Seat Heater in the Camry.
Does the overheating complaint hold any water in my case?
And 2. They are saying "...there is nothing wrong with the way he tapped off the fuse as long as the tap is on the correct side of the fuse."
Well, I don't know if I have, I mean it works, and I sure don't want to mess with it other than to maybe wrap it up in some electric tape.
The #1 statement is correct, IF you put a heavy load on it, a radar detector will not do it...
#2 If you installed a second fuse in line with the added outlet with a low current rating (say up to about 7 amps), it is protected.
The lowest amperage fuse or the fuse with the most current will always open first in a tapped series setup. The added circuit is dependent on the original fuse.
If the "add a fuse" is on the power source side, you have 2 independent circuits, each on their own fuse provided you installed one on the new outlet.
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 2, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010
Euro Style Tail Light Set for 07 on an 11, Mod 1
"Still Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
I am very troubled when I read about folks who want to tap into wires of unknown size, carrying unknown amperages. You are asking for problems with existing wiring, fuses, and yes, potentially fire. You need to know what you are working with. My suggestion is to run a fused wire of adequate gauge size directly to the battery. If you please and have future needs, run a much larger wire, fused, to an aftermarket fuse block. Radio Shack should sell these. Another fuse at that point and then multiple points for power are available. If you want to tap into the existing fuse block and you don't know which is which, what gauge wire is fused, etc., you are just asking for trouble.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
Once again, thank you Luna2. I understand what you are saying.
As for gdanaher's post, here's the whole story, followed by questions that apply to my case and not any case out there:
1. If all you want is to connect a radar detector and nothing else *ever* to an unused 20A fuse, then everything is OK and the car won't burn down, if everything is done just as I pictured it above, correct?
[And just out of curiosity Luna2, what constitutes a "heavy load"?]
2. Separate question, separate car:
I want to use a wire from an amp kit, connect the wire to battery, running the wire through the fuse that came with the amp kit directly to the cigarette lighter and thereby fix a broken cigarette lighter issue in a separate car. Can I do that and if yes, which cig lighter can I connect to? Any?
How about the car's broken Subaru Baja cig lighter socket which does not work because Subaru put a fuse right on it and it blew and it *cannot* be replaced using anything other than their $150 cig lighter socket part, but let's not get into that, can I simply connect the amp kit wire through the amp kit fuse, to the original broken cig lighter socket?
Once again, thank you Luna2. I understand what you are saying.
As for gdanaher's post, here's the whole story, followed by questions that apply to my case and not any case out there:
1. If all you want is to connect a radar detector and nothing else *ever* to an unused 20A fuse, then everything is OK and the car won't burn down, if everything is done just as I pictured it above, correct?
[And just out of curiosity Luna2, what constitutes a "heavy load"?]
2. Separate question, separate car:
I want to use a wire from an amp kit, connect the wire to battery, running the wire through the fuse that came with the amp kit directly to the cigarette lighter and thereby fix a broken cigarette lighter issue in a separate car. Can I do that and if yes, which cig lighter can I connect to? Any?
How about the car's broken Subaru Baja cig lighter socket which does not work because Subaru put a fuse right on it and it blew and it *cannot* be replaced using anything other than their $150 cig lighter socket part, but let's not get into that, can I simply connect the amp kit wire through the amp kit fuse, to the original broken cig lighter socket?
I would call a heavy load anything above the fuse rating, divided by 2, to the limit of the fuse, because that is what the wiring from the fuse is rated for, as far as maximum current. Any device you add on needs to be added to the current that would normally be drawn, when the OEM device is operating on that circuit.
FYI, the accessory sockets in the Toyota's have a fuse built into them also. The rating of that fuse is a little above or equal to the fuse in the fuse panel. I didn't measure mine, when it opened up because of a defective plug that was inserted, and I destroyed that adapter plug. But, I did remove the built in fuse and added an inline fuse at 10 amps, to protect the cars wiring, on that plug.
You can put anything on the wire to that accessory plug up to the maximum rating of the circuit, with everything turned on. Toyota rated the accessory sockets (2 of them) for a total current not to exceed 10 amps for both outlets, in my Camry. (Up to 10 amps in one, without any current being drawn in the other socket.)
Protection is the key here. Proper wire size and you can reduce the fuse size in any add on circuit to protect the wiring, as long as the device still works... and don't open the fuse.
The circuit for the radar detector you installed, should not pull more than 1/2 amp and should have a fuse in the adapter plug of at least 1 amp to protect its wiring. (I am using a best guess here on the actual currents.)
If the amp kit wire and current rating is larger than the fuse to that circuit, no. If it is only the trigger circuit to turn on the high current lines that you should have wired to the battery with its own fuse, I would say yes, as that circuit only draws about 100 mili amps (0.1 amps or 1/10 of an amp).
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 2, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010
Euro Style Tail Light Set for 07 on an 11, Mod 1
"Still Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
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