PCV valve inspection...ugh...

[kitacamry]

As advised here and at Bob is the Oil Guy.....

I went and checked the PCV valve...it rattles as I was told it does if it's working...but

....this doesn't look good...I don't know if the oil/dirt affects PCV performance but it IS rattling just fine...

It may be the original PVC, (98k), Kitacam's 1500mi into this OC...



Since it is doing its rattle thing, I cleaned it and put it back keeping in mind to check it again just before I change the oil (in 3k miles or so, the last 1k including a few 250mi/3-4hr interstate runs @ 70mph, so THAT may help) and we'll see if/how much it gets dirty again

....though I'd likely change it at that time anyway...

[Glenn8963]

a rattling sound from a PCV valve, IS NOT an indication that it IS working properly. there is a spring inside each valve that has a value to the vacuum pressure with which it opens.

it used to be years ago, that PCV valves were replaced every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. nowadays, i say that the average time/miles is now at 100,000 miles.

that "gunk" i see surrounding the outside of the valve IS A GOOD indication that the valve is clogging up on you. maybe even staying open when it should be closed. a rough idle is an indication that the valve is sticking open.

i would be more inclined to keep the oil change intervals and using the proper oil for the engine. that residue surrounding the valve also is an indication of the crud building up in the valve train.

[kitacamry]

Thanks...

I think I'll take your advice and replace it immediately and see what it looks like at the next OC and decide on observing its condition whether to continue with 5w-30 dino or go with 0w-20 (or a high detergent 5w-30)

[deadrx7conv]

I'm glad to see that there is at least one other person in the world that understands that the pcv 'rattle' doesn't tell you anything.

My PCV valve was spotless when changed. Looks can give you an indicator of what the inside of your engine looks like. I would not switch down to a 0w20 in Florida weather without an oil pressure gauge in an unknown condition engine. Full synthetic is a no brainer. anyW30 synth should serve you well. Napa-branded full synthetic is on sale for $4/qt. I'd definitely consider a valve cover removal inspection also.

[kitacamry]

Well dead, Toyo does list 0w-20 for the L4...but I understand...5w-30 syn has been recommended by many...

...as for removing the valve cover...something to do at the OC to see the condition underneath after 5k miles with 5w-30 dino now sloshing around in there...
Thatvisual inspection would help me decide which oil would be best for the next OC ...

...and in keeping with the communal caring here, I'll post a photo then to get a few perspectives on THAT (to add what the BITOG crew suggest)
..When I do, should I install a new gasket?

btw...I did take a peak under the filler cap....

[deadrx7conv]

Originally Posted by kitacamry

Well dead, Toyo does list 0w-20 for the L4...

For what L4? what year? what block casting? what oiling system?
2az-fe in 2007 takes 4.5 quarts and had some oiling and cooling improvements. My '04 has a 4 quart capacity without the fancy oiling upgrades and is similar to your year. I've increased my sump capacity with a 20195/3600/51516/400s... sized oil filter and have no problems with oil pressure, and improved engine cooling. But, I do prefer the 0w30 year round, unless there is a bargain/sale/rebate that 'forces' me into a heavily discounted synth 5w30. I will use 0w10 or 0w20 once I upgrade my oiling system during my quest for MPG as I hit a wall at 35mpg mixed driving. Research before you jump and don't always follow the BITOG Pied Piper.

I've seen your oil filler pic from the other thread. But, it contradicts the coating on the PCV valve, which makes you wonder whether higher oil flow areas are nice, cleaned, and lightly varnished, while the lower flow/splishsplash... areas have crud.

BTW, Toyota demands/requires that my '11 Avalon use 0w20. But, I use 5w30 synth, in Florida's warm weather. Higher mileage 2gr-fe's that I've heard, sound like loose bolts in a coffee can. Maybe that is acceptable by Toyota. Its isn't by me.

BTW, I'm using the LuberFiner PCV's from the local autopart store.

[hardtopte72]

Loud 2GR-FE engines are usually the result of piston slap. This issue is common on older 2GRs especially and most I hve seen start at around 75-90K.

I have used 0W20 in both my cars, my Mazda 6, my friends 08 Tundra, and my MIL's Highlander. No issues with noise, consumption, or fuel economy increase.

So long as the car is driving normal (not going to the track) 0W20 is fine for Florida as the operating temp viscosity is close enough as it is. Toyota back specs 0W20 for the 2006 Camry. Camry Engines are the same part number for 2003-2006. 02 uses the 19000-0H010 versus the newer 19000-0H040.

Here is a good article in reference to viscosity. If you are worried run 0W30. Which for all purposes is the best thing going.

http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief13%2...0Viscosity.pdf

[kitacamry]

Well....went to Toyland and how important is the pcv valve in their realm? It's a SPECIAL ORDER item..not even stocked....so I have to go back next week to get it... interestingly, it's cheaper at Toyland than at the local auto parts shop...

Dead...

I do agree that under stress 5w-30 syn might be better than 0w-20...under severe conditions marked by a lot of stop and go or longer highway driving in very hot weather...but I won't be driving in such conditions...more normal than not...

I also agree that the difference between the top view and the pcv valve view is worth investigating further...the engine is running (to my ears) just about perfectly...nice and smooth and quiet...but...

...I'll likely pull the top head cover just before the next OC and if there is a lot of gunk I'll go with a high detergent 5w30 (eg Valvoline Max syn-blend) for a couple of shorter 3k OCIs...if it is clean (albeit with some varnish like we have already seen) I'll just continue with 5w-30 PYB (the bulk oil used by the dealer)

...I take in and consider all the input here and at BITOG as I respond to changing facts/awareness/knowledge of the car/engine as it becomes available...

Thank you for your input...

[Glenn8963]

Originally Posted by kitacamry

Well dead, Toyo does list 0w-20 for the L4...but I understand...5w-30 syn has been recommended by many...

...as for removing the valve cover...something to do at the OC to see the condition underneath after 5k miles with 5w-30 dino now sloshing around in there...
Thatvisual inspection would help me decide which oil would be best for the next OC ...

...and in keeping with the communal caring here, I'll post a photo then to get a few perspectives on THAT (to add what the BITOG crew suggest)
..When I do, should I install a new gasket?

btw...I did take a peak under the filler cap....

ALWAYS replace a gasket when you take something off. all gaskets take a form fit to the contours of the parts, and you will NEVER 100% match it back up again. you run a very high risk of leakage when you re-use an old gasket.

i would actually suggest looking at the owners manual for specifics for the oil to use at the temps that you are living in. i am and will always be a synthetic fan.

[kitacamry]

Thanks Glenn...yes, you're right of course....as for the oil...looks like Max-life 5w-30 syn-blend for a couple of 3k oil changes...keeping an eye on the pcv valve at each OC...seems like an easy way to gauge if the engine is getting cleaner...if NO improvement, then a detergent additive for a while just before the OC may be needed....



Enjoy your Toy....

[leakyseals]

You know you can clean the pcv valve right? Spray some TB cleaner in the hole, cover the ends with your fingers and shake it for a while till you hear the ball bearing moving easily, then bang/tap the bottom on a paper towel on a table. Any deposits will come out. Clean the end and threads. Put it back

[kitacamry]

Leaky....Did that (cleaned up fine) and put it back in...but for $6 I figured after 100k miles kitcam deserves a breath of fresh air
...and that just eliminates a variable I know I don't have to worry about

....now, to get to my cousin's 05 i4 Cam with its 25K miles (!)....that deserves a look-see too...

[Glenn8963]

Originally Posted by leakyseals

You know you can clean the pcv valve right? Spray some TB cleaner in the hole, cover the ends with your fingers and shake it for a while till you hear the ball bearing moving easily, then bang/tap the bottom on a paper towel on a table. Any deposits will come out. Clean the end and threads. Put it back

yes, YOU CAN clean a PCV valve, and you WILL hear the ball rattling, but that still DOES NOT mean that the PCV valve is good....

when i was "in the business" i would at times "clean" a PCV valve at say each oil change. but replacements were needed at tune up time, or if the intake system was clogging up due to poor ventilation of the system. cars back then created a whole lot of moisture in the crankcase, which made the oil turn nearly white as the moisture mixed with the oils. this wreaked havoc with the PCV system. back then, the oil caps were frequently also a "filter" for the crankcase. those HAD to be cleaned at each oil change to ensure proper ventilation of the PCV system.

again, the rattling sound of the ball inside the PCV valve is NO indication that it is good. heck, a brand new one can be defective right out of the box.

[Paul3637]

The oil passages on anything through 2002 is a disaseter causing sludge for which Toyota paid off the people that thought they could go like 10K miles with their famous settlement ........ yikes ....... only requireing once a year oil changes through 120,000 miles.

I cannot figure out why the gen 6 I4 is such a piece of crap. That engine is plagued with excess oil burn, zero power, poor gas mileage YADA YADA. I had one for a rental and it was the worst piece of crap ever.

The picture here means ..... only one thing: Despite proper oil changes ..... your pos 2.4 that burns way more gas and oil than a comparable V6 ......... should have never made it to the marketplace.

I love Toyota / Lexus .. but my gosh ........ they are in the process of self destruct.

For anyone considering buying a used Camry:

The 2.4L is a piece of crap that should be a Chrysler.

Do NOT buy any 4 cyl unless the 2010+ 2.5L. The only interval on them is 10K/1 year whichever is first with syntheticc 0W 20 oil. That is it PERIOD. Any use of conventional oil voids the warranty. The 3.5L v6 is flawless ---------- that must be why I love mine so much.

[kitacamry]

Paul..
I don't know about your experience/knowledge but Kitacam is getting 24-25mpg in town and after 1500miles I see no drop in oil on the dip stick...not yet at least.

The suspension after 7 years is still tight as a drum, and the engine quiet and peppy...overall it is a much better car than the 2 Altimas I had (94 for 5 years to 175k, 99 for 10 years to 195k)...soooo....

...so far, so good...