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Try to get better MPG on my Camry

6K views 38 replies 11 participants last post by  ilyabyk83 
#1 ·
Hi. This is my first post here;

I'm trying to improve my MPG on my 2003 Toyota Camry SE (220-240 MPG on full 18g tank). As I already found out a bit - first steps would be to upgrade my air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires.

I was able to find a filter (K&N) and Bosch plugs; but I can't find best rated cables/wires.

The rest of the stuff I'm going to order from Amzon.com, because they'll have free shipping and they are the best price I found (with free shipping) + people leave reviews of the items; but CABLES I can't find anywhere. Would somebody please recommend me a BEST set with FREE SHIPPING please??

Please also recommend me best plugs if you can? I want to read reviews before I buy. The filter got 5 out 5 stars; being K&N filter..

THANK YOU PEOPLE!!
 
#3 · (Edited)
More info needed to be of help

That is the worst gas mileage from a camry I've ever heard of. Is it an I4 or V6? How many miles on it? When did you buy it? What is the maintenance history like? ..... Or did you buy it used and have no clue? Is this city driving like a race car driver? What is your mileage on the highway at reasonable speeds? You should be getting 350 miles per tank at least unless you are doing some type of severe service driving.

Using a K&N filter vs OEM paper element won't do the trick. You'll just let in more dirt into your engine. See posts #18 & 27 at:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../352443-2010-camry-2-5-cold-air-intake-2.html

I think you need to understand how newer ignition systems work. No plug wires 2002 forward. Do you know what a coil pack is? See:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...8-diy-guide-replacing-spark-plugs-2az-fe.html

If you have a V6, the 3.0L often overcompensates for regular vs premium fuel and retards the ignition timing too much fuel since the defaults on that engine are for Lexus premium fuel. Try a tank of premium if you have the V6 and see if there is a big difference. My ex wife's Lexus ES with that engine highway mpg was 25 vs 30 regular vs premium.

"Those MZs had poor knock control, or perhaps oversensitivity when detecting knock, and power loss up to 20 hp (15 kW) may be realized due to erratic ignition timing when using an octane lower than 91"

Whether I4 or V6, so long as you are using clean 5W30 motor oil, new spark plugs may help along with a run of Techron Super Concentrate fuel delivery system cleaner. You probably need to have your throttle body cleaned, too. No fuel passes through this device before air runs through the air cleener and into the fuel injectors so Techron cleaning won't do this job. There are plenty of DIY throttle body cleaning posts in toyotanation forums.
 
#4 ·
That is the worst gas mileage from a camry I've ever heard of. Is it an I4 or V6? How many miles on it? When did you buy it? What is the maintenance history like? ..... Or did you buy it used and have no clue? Is this city driving like a race car driver? What is your mileage on the highway at reasonable speeds? You should be getting 350 miles per tank at least unless you are doing some type of severe service driving.

Using a K&N filter vs OEM paper element won't do the trick. You'll just let in more dirt into your engine. See posts #18 & 27 at:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1.../352443-2010-camry-2-5-cold-air-intake-2.html

I think you need to understand how newer ignition systems work. No plug wires 2002 forward. Do you know what a coil pack is? See:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...8-diy-guide-replacing-spark-plugs-2az-fe.html

If you have a V6, the 3.0L often overcompensates for regular vs premium fuel and retards the ignition timing too much fuel since the defaults on that engine are for Lexus premium fuel. Try a tank of premium if you have the V6 and see if there is a big difference. My ex wife's Lexus ES with that engine highway mpg was 25 vs 30 regular vs premium.

"Those MZs had poor knock control, or perhaps oversensitivity when detecting knock, and power loss up to 20 hp (15 kW) may be realized due to erratic ignition timing when using an octane lower than 91"

Whether I4 or V6, so long as you are using clean 5W30 motor oil, new spark plugs may help along with a run of Techron Super Concentrate fuel delivery system cleaner. You probably need to have your throttle body cleaned, too. No fuel passes through this device before air runs through the air cleener and into the fuel injectors so Techron cleaning won't do this job. There are plenty of DIY throttle body cleaning posts in toyotanation forums.
I4 - 2.4L Thanx.

I was hoping to change my plugs, get new wires, and change the filter. I'm not planning to spend anything more on this, than that.

I need a link for plugs
I need a link for wires/cables
I need a link for the best air filter available

All to have FREE SHIPPING preferably. Thanx

I really want to buy with free shipping... But with this all replaced, I should get better mileage. Yes, I know its junk now, but when can I do? I bought this car two weeks ago, used; I don't know any history.
 
#5 ·
you need help from kitacamry or hardtopte72

Since you have no vehicle history, you should be doing a Mobil 1 5W30 oil change plus oil filter if you have not done so already. The high detergent in this oil will help clean out any sludge that may contribute to poor engine performance. You can get a new high quality FRAM engine air filter from WalMart for $15 or at your dealer for $20. Don't forget about your cabin air filter which is probably clogged.

Sounds like you may need a new PCV valve which also causes poor performance.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-2azfe-camry-pcv-valve-replacement-pics.html

These only cost about $10 or less.

I suggest you PM kitacamry of this forum for info you need:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/283094-kitacamry.html

He has the same engine you do and is familiar with just about every issue related to the maintenance of this engine. He does his work DIY and posts pictures. Also, try:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/254968-hardtopte72.html

he is very knowledgable as well.

You keep mentioning spark plug wires ........ your car does not even have them !!!!!!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Since you have no vehicle history, you should be doing a Mobil 1 5W30 oil change plus oil filter if you have not done so already. The high detergent in this oil will help clean out any sludge that may contribute to poor engine performance. You can get a new high quality FRAM engine air filter from WalMart for $15 or at your dealer for $20. Don't forget about your cabin air filter which is probably clogged.

Sounds like you may need a new PCV valve which also causes poor performance.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...6-2azfe-camry-pcv-valve-replacement-pics.html

These only cost about $10 or less.

I suggest you PM kitacamry of this forum for info you need:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/283094-kitacamry.html

He has the same engine you do and is familiar with just about every issue related to the maintenance of this engine. He does his work DIY and posts pictures. Also, try:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/254968-hardtopte72.html

he is very knowledgable as well.

You keep mentioning spark plug wires ........ your car does not even have them !!!!!!
Guy, I bought the car from a respectable dealer in my area!!

I sent a PM to those users. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE HELP
 
#8 ·
Go to your local advance or autozone...no need to buy anything online...tell them what model car you have and engine size...tell them you need an air filter, cabin filter, and ngk (iridium preferred) spark plugs...as previously mentioned your car doesn't have wires it has coil packs...so stop worrying about buying stuff online and go pick it up today!
 
#13 · (Edited)
When I got Kitacam @ 97k miles it had been prepped for sale by the dealer....it included an oil change and air filter change (OEM is a good filter), but that didn't include the 100k service...soooo, I had the following done at the next oil change (3200 miles after purchase)...

1. Switched from conventional Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5w-30 to Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 (why not when you can get PP and K&N filter for $5 after rebate)

2. Coolant drain/fill....and it needed it...used Zerex IMPORT from NAPA @ $13/gallon...used 2 gallons

3. Replaced PCV valve and (hard brittle-cracked) hose...$5 + $12 from dealer

4. Replaced the plugs with Denso iridium (same as OEM)...they last 120k miles but 100k seemed right as I will be owning this puppy forEVER.
...bought at Advance Auto Parts for $7 ea. (sale price)
[when replacing the plugs the mechanic DID NOT REPLACE THE WIRES, COILS, OR PLASTIC CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE WIRES AND COILS...BUT....be careful with those connections as many years of heat made them brittle and easily cracked....the mechanic pulled the coils off the plugs while still connected to the wires...again, be VERY careful with them....]
As for brand...Toyota uses both Denso and NGK...some like Denso, some like NGK...in fact I've read where some Toyo V6 engines had 3 factory-installed NGK and 3 Denso...go figure.

5. At the same time I replaced the plugs I removed the valve cover to inspect the engine's condition, AND replace the valve cover GASKET....definitely needed it as it was crumbly in my hand...

6. Brake fluid flush....you can feel the difference.

7. Flushed/replaced power steering fluid

8. I also replaced the cabin air filter with the WIX brand but OEM is just fine too.

9. Had the Throttle body cleaned (didn't need much, thankfully)

Whether ONE had the most impact, or the combination of them has made the difference I can't say but even as I thought Kitacam was silky-smooth when I drove it off the dealer lot, it now is even smoother.


I didn't experience any increase in MPG, but I'm getting 24.5 in town and 34.5 on the highway....but I have the manual tranny so that may give Kitacam an edge over AT Camrys.
You might want to flush/fill the AT with either Castrol Transmax Import (at Walmart IN QUARTS ONLY) or Mobil synthetic

Another point...I run 34-35psi (vs 29 recommended PSI) in my tires to decrease rolling resistance...

I hope this has been of some help...it's easy to get overwhelmed with all the different suggestions and assuredness that one brand is better than another (just check out Bobistheoilguy.com for some real oil-combat among brand-fanboys)....to which I believe that with a proper running car, proper preventative maintenance trumps brand preference (e.g. I believe that a 5k mile OCI with conventional oil is better than 10k OCI with synthetic....despite the great advances with oil, I don't ever recall an engine with problems that had 5k OCI...whereas too many things can go wrong with a 10k mile OCI)...but that's just me...I'm conservative when it comes to PM
 
#14 ·
I agree with the plugs, filters, ect. I have an '07 I4, the biggest saving is in your foot, trying to stay under 3000 RPMs will help. Remember there are a few other factors too. Reformulated fuel in the summer kills mileage, cold weather kills mileage too. In the old days you closed a choke flap on the carb to choke it, todays fuel injection systems shoot more fuel rather then squeeze the air, resulting in lower in mleage.

I'd do the plugs, filter, wires if you have them, PCV, check tire pressure, run some Techron thru it and maybe even go with synthetic oil. Ignore your mileage until the Techron is burned up.
 
#15 ·
  • K&N air filters are marketing hype. Get a quality foam air filter: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Wix-46673-Air-Filter-Pack/dp/B000C9TCNU/[/ame]
  • However, K&N oil filters, made by Champion Labs, are very good: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/K-N-HP-1003-Oil-Filter/dp/B000C4087O[/ame]
  • NGK Iridium and Denso Iridium are high quality plugs. NGK are a tad cheaper, so go with them: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR6EIX-11-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000BYGK0E[/ame]
  • As for oil, just Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-112976-UNIT-5W-30-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00826LY6I/[/ame]
  • Inflate your tires to 35PSI, provided that it does not exceed the maximum cold tire pressure molded on the tire sidewall.
  • Start a Chevron Techron treatment. This will remove deposit buildups: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-67740-CASE-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893O/[/ame]
 
#16 ·
thank you!!
 
#22 · (Edited)
#27 · (Edited)
You know... all of this is easily DIY'able, I can understand taking it somewhere for a tire rotation though. If you want to save money so bad, do it all yourself.

Where did you buy this from? An actual dealer (Toyota, Ford, GM, etc) or a used car dealer? I certainly wouldn't be calling used car dealers reputable.

You also didn't specify it's mileage, unless I just skimmed over it,

MPG is also highly dependent on your type of driving. Drive mostly stop and go/city driving? Don't expect 30mpg. Should of bought a hybrid or something.

-PCV Valve
-Couple coolant drain + refills
-Synthetic oil
-Air filter
-Denso or NGK Iridium spark plugs
-Top tier gas (Shell, Mobil/Exxon, Chevron, etc or ethanol free gas)
 
#30 ·
Unless your Cam was hiccuping at idle you're not likely to notice any difference....it's PM.
What did the old PCV valve look like? Was it clean or clogged?
Did the mechanic look at the hose for cracking/brittle ends?
When you have the plugs replaced I'd have the mechanic look around the valve cover gasket for sealing...
 
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#34 ·
I don't think people undersntand

Hey. Look I'm not trying to make a "candy" out of my USED car. That is not why I bought it. This is a back up car!! That is why GAS MILEAGE is important on it. This car is to drive to and back from work. I have about 40 miles in each end. The GAS is the issue!! I'm simply trying to get my MPG back to its original state, which by the way was CRAP!! That is what I'm trying to do!!! Thank You
 
#35 · (Edited)
I think we got that easy:) The thing most people say when you want the best milage is to get it as close to new mechanically as you can. Common things you can replace are 02 sensors pcv valves etc.

This is what works for me. I have an 09 Camry LE i-4. when I was doing my 132mi a day round trip I would get 35mpg more often than not. Wash your car and put a couple coats of wax on it. Seriously this helps on the highway a tiny amount and your car looks nice! Take all the extra junk out of your car. Run a couple three pounds higher psi, I run 38 in my tires this isn't enough to cause wear issues in my experience but it will give you a little bit of mpg. Go get you some low rolling resistance tires, Goodyear, Michelen etc make some. Change your oil to a full synthetic such as Mobil One 0-20w if you are not running it already these cars are fine with 0-20 I have 123k on 0-20. Some folks don't believe in K&N filters.I do, I have bought one in every car I have owned and put them in at the first needed filter change. Never have to buy one again and in my 4 new cars I have bought it is good for .5-1mpg. unplug your battery for awhile and let the transmission relearn your shift patterns and drive like Grandpa. And the biggest impact I have found is to get some %100 pure gas, none of that ethanol junk. http://pure-gas.org/

Check for any dragging brakes etc and any alignment issues as others have suggested these leach mpg. If you are driving stop and go and want good mpg get a Prius. Seriously. Stop and go around town in my car is not very good. usually because I let my car warm up in the winter and put my foot in it around town a lot of times. I don't even keep track but I bet it is 20-25 with all the warm up idling.
 
#37 · (Edited)
I got my gasket at the dealer for $12. A leaky gasket (resulting from age and heat) affects oil pressure and consumption...
Does oil loss/and oil pressure drop affect MPG?...good chance...
Does it protect your engine and investment beyond MPG? most definitely.

Is it easy? Once the plastic cover is removed (which was done to replace the PCV valve), and the plugs removed from the head, it's just a matter of unscrewing the valve cover's bolts and removing the cover...total time 10min. maybe, for cleaning the the underside of the cover and the groove where the gasket goes...see photos below of head (note the crud in the gasket groove) and underside of the valve cover...





As for your focus on MPG...In the long run, (figuratively and literally), proper PM will always pay you back more than will gas savings...especially with the under $30 parts replacements and maintenance updates...
...e.g. changing the coolant every few years...cost under $30...keeps the engine cool and water pump properly lubricated, preventing overheating that ruins the pump, head gasket, head bolt slots and perhaps even the piston oil holes that get clogged up, the sum total of which is a total wreck...
 
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#39 ·
PCV Valve

I got it, and got it installed PROFESSIONALLY. I had to go there for an oil change.
Please check out the pics.

P.S. It seems as its working. Gone 85 miles, and barely 1/8 of tank.





I'm not sure if you are suppose to see through it, but not through this one anyway.

 
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