120k Transmission Fluid Change - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2002-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2003-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #16 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 06:14 PM
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On my 1998 Avalon there is a cable that "controls" the shifting and pressure that is attached to the throttle . It is easy to adjust and makes a trans shift quite differently. I have smoothed out the shifting on my 1985 Supra which shifted way to harshly and banged into the next gear and my Avalon to make it smoother and shift quicker with out hesitation . You should be sure it is adjusted properly to OEM spec.
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post #17 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by william m dowd View Post
Go ahead and drop the pan change out the filter put a new gasket in the pan and put it back together. I recommend using Max life synthetic transmission fluid which I use on all my Toyotas. I believe it holds around 3 to 4 quarts of oil I would take it out for drive say about 10 miles round-trip come back and drain the transmission again through the drain plug in the pan. I would do this three more times over the next couple of weeks this way you get out most of the old transmission fluid. Also by some fiber washers from Toyota or local Pep Boys or O'Reillys etc. the fiber washers need to be changed every time you loosen up the drain plug on the transmission pan after this change out your transmission fluid once every 25,000 by just draining through the transmission pan good luck on the tranny. You can buy Max life synthetic transmission fluid at Walmart 1 gallon bottle around $20 best prices anywhere and this stuff is fantastic in your transmission.Also remember to check the fluid level by starting the car with your brake on put the transmission lever through all the gears a couple of times put it in park and test your oil level.
Thanks for the detailed response. I think i'll go back to the same shop have them drop the pan and change the filter as I don't feel confident doing that part. Then draining the transmission for a few weeks i'll take care of myself. I believe the same shop told me not to use Max life synthetic only toyota brand. Come to think of it maybe I should find a different transmission shop.

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post #18 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcgowaw View Post
+1 on carl h. i did the fluid exchange on my 94. amazing what comes out via this method.

i'm still cornfused about what happened 20k ago. you said they replaced the trans pan? if so, then i'm not sure why you're even worried about it at this point, since you have at least 10k miles before you need to do a drain and refill as they would have had to put new fluid in it when they replaced the pan.
or did i miss something?

tony
My transmission pan got dented and they removed the pan fixed the dent, didn't touch the filter and put old fluid back as they said the fluid is fine. So the fluid was never changed.

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post #19 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 08:42 PM
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so they had the pan off and didn't replace the filter and fluid? i second your opinion that you need a new shop.....
it's pretty rewarding doing it yourself and you'd be surprised at all the simple things you can do to start out with and then as you get more knowledge and tools, the things you can do later on. just gotta get some grease under your fingernails and watch some videos and post on forums like this one and then you don't always have to be at the mercy of 'the shop'.
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post #20 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcgowaw View Post
so they had the pan off and didn't replace the filter and fluid? i second your opinion that you need a new shop.....
it's pretty rewarding doing it yourself and you'd be surprised at all the simple things you can do to start out with and then as you get more knowledge and tools, the things you can do later on. just gotta get some grease under your fingernails and watch some videos and post on forums like this one and then you don't always have to be at the mercy of 'the shop'.
tony
new shop it is then! I do plenty of work on my camry myself it's just really cold right now and I just don't feel comfortable with dropping the pan otherwise a simple drain and fill I would do myself. Which leads to my next question. Is the filter necessary to replace? If not then i'll do the drain and fill myself and get it over with. I hear this weekend should be warm!

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post #21 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 10:29 PM
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This has been discussed over and and over and over and over again.

There are already several threads on this topic, including the sticky section of the main forum.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...n-6-camry.html

Change the fluid. All the other crap is a myth.

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post #22 of 46 Old 02-15-2017, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yes i've seen all the posts I just was shocked a transmission shop advised against doing the change.

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post #23 of 46 Old 02-16-2017, 03:27 PM
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maybe new transmissions cost more than doing a flush?
dunno, but many things seem to be motivated by money and not trying to keep these cars on the road longer.
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post #24 of 46 Old 02-16-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Going to a new shop tomorrow hopefully they'll treat me better thanks for all the help

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post #25 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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2nd transmission shop recommends against doing the job. Told me I would have to sign a waiver. He told me right now the fluid is very low viscosity since it's old and putting in new high viscosity fluid would move parts and cause the transmission to slip. He also quoted me $330 for labor a toyota filter and 6 quarts of toyota fluid.
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post #26 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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3rd transmission shop advised me against doing the work. He came out to check the dipstick and he said that fluid smells really burnt. But gave me an estimate of $180.
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post #27 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 11:09 AM
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If it was my own car, I would start with simple drain-fill at every oil change if not comfortable doing it sooner like 100-300mi. Each time it takes less than 4 qts. Drain the pan, fill from dipstick tube. See the DIY info thread hardtopte72 mentioned.

There are 2 methods for a flush (ie exchange) and the discussion can be confusing. Some shops (including dealers) say flush and even send it back with drain-fill. When you say flush, most assume full fluid change at once.

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post #28 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Judging by what the shops are saying I feel like just avoiding changing the filter and doing the drain and fill myself with every oil change. Gonna visit 1 more shop and my mechanic to hear what they have to say.
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post #29 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iizbor3d View Post
2nd transmission shop recommends against doing the job. Told me I would have to sign a waiver. He told me right now the fluid is very low viscosity since it's old and putting in new high viscosity fluid would move parts and cause the transmission to slip. He also quoted me $330 for labor a toyota filter and 6 quarts of toyota fluid.
The logic (as I understand it) behind the argument that you should not change the fluid in a situation such as yours is that as the fluid degrades, the clutch packs wear more. The material from the clutch packs becomes suspended in the fluid and helps keep them from slipping more than they otherwise would. By changing the fluid, you remove that material and the clutches show their true wear. Although, I have always questioned this since wouldn't the transmission filter remove the bulk of the suspended material? And if it did not, wouldn't the material be too fine to function in that manner? Anyway...

Unfortunately, you have already crossed the Rubicon on this one. NOT changing your fluid might buy you some time, but eventually you are going to suffer the consequences that comes from never changing your fluid. If it was me, I would replace all of the fluid and deal with a potentially slipping transmission over an eventually dead one. Changing it out in 3 or 4 consecutive drain and fills at short intervals (every oil change, perhaps) might leave some more of that clutch material suspended while still replacing the bulk of the fluid.

Either way, the consensus among these forums is change it, as hardtopte pointed out. Toyota did a real disservice to its customers with that "lifetime" fluid bullshit.
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post #30 of 46 Old 02-17-2017, 11:26 AM
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Well, that is also up for discussion. Changing filter (ie valve strainer) has no adverse effects. That involves drain fluid, drop pan, clean magnets, replace strainer (like Wix from oreilly auto), fill fluid via dipstick. Again just filling what is drained out. Done. No discussion of fluid exchange.

If you see the ATF with filter thread in DIY you can get a better understanding. All the discussion around "flush" mixed with anything else has different meaning with lots of people.

When actual "flush" is done this is where you will get mixed results depending on the condition of previous maintenance. Drain-fill is just that. Drain and fill exact amount that was drained.

Hope you have good luck with the drain-fill regardless of dropping pan. Just keep the fluid in good shape first while you go through your decision process. First things first.

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