120k Transmission Fluid Change - Page 3 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2002-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2003-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #31 of 48 Old 02-17-2017, 12:02 PM
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Most all debris is usually coating the surface of the pan as it falls out of suspension and the magnets catch the iron and steel. The filters I have seen are not plugged up and in my Avalon it is a metal screen that can be reused. I've done full exchanges on all my cars with no problems, They actually shift better, and after a throttle cable adjustment they shift as smooth as butter. 3 + gallons to do it until the fluid pumps out clean.

***The cable is called a " throttle cable " in my OEM Toyota repair manual.But it controls pressure in the trans.

My Avalon ATF was done at 170,000 miles As per the Car Doctors advice, I did 2 pan drains and refills and then after a few thousand miles I did a exchange . At 177,000 when I replaced the radiator, I did another fluid exchange since the ATF cooler lines were already off.

Some of this discussion reminds me of the old days when oil was non detergent and if your motor was all sludged up a switch to detergent oil could free up the sludge . And then there were those who did kerosene flushes at oil changes which in some ways are like when they introduce a chemical to clean out the trans = a flush.

As a test of your shop's knowledge ask them to adjust the "throttle cable" and tell you how they did it. A simple small adjustment makes a world of difference and all cables stretch some and will need adjustment for the trans to perform properly.
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post #32 of 48 Old 02-17-2017, 02:41 PM
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To be fair, they were reasonable in not wanting to "exchange" all the fluid and change the filter. There was a memo I think by ATRA transmission rebuilders assoc cautioning that. It's more about liability.

But like others already said, the transmission may already be on its way out, I'd want new fluid and filter in there. But just drain and refill and see how it behaves. Not full fluid exchange at once. Make sure they get the fluid level right. Hard to do when car is at operating temp.

Call up other ATRA member shops and ask. Some can be duds so check references. www.atra.com
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post #33 of 48 Old 02-17-2017, 02:46 PM
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BTW, I don't think this transmission has a cable to adjust line pressure.

U660E if I'm not mistaken. IMO it's a known POS clunker, so 120k it's doing well.
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post #34 of 48 Old 02-18-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well just an update my trusty mechanic changed my fluid with a simple drain and fill and said if transmission will last till summer then he'll change the filter. He also found my exhaust is leaking through the flex pipe. As far as the results of the drain and fill. It slipped a few times but seems to running fine. Gonna drain and fill it during my next oil change in about 3500 miles. Thanks everyone for the help.

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post #35 of 48 Old 02-19-2017, 06:35 AM
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Atf

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD View Post
BTW, I don't think this transmission has a cable to adjust line pressure.

U660E if I'm not mistaken. IMO it's a known POS clunker, so 120k it's doing well.

That is why I brought a Toyota workshop manual , So I could repair things and learn how to adjust the Transmission cables on my 1985 Supra and 1998 Avalon.

If the shop you go to is so good ,, perhaps they should have told you to do a ATF change at 50,000 miles.

After you have any oil or ATF changed, You should check the level your self, that info is in the glove box owner's booklet. If you don't do the regular maintenance and simple work the glove box book tells you your at the mercy of who or what ever they tell you. But some things like oil and ATF change intervals should be done much sooner than recommended in modern booklets.

I've heard of a few oil change places not putting oil in and the motor blowing up, But I often wonder how can the owner not see the gauge or warning light or hear the motor noise when a motor has no oil in it. Then there are the shops that up sell you on trans and brake fluid flushes and not doing the work, but charging you for it.
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post #36 of 48 Old 02-19-2017, 11:29 AM
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^^ That last part. Pepboys does that. My aunt goes to pepboys and she has a written estimate for brake fluid and brakes for instance. I checked and it was previously changed/clean, pads fine. Next time she went they did not write that up and one of the mechanics told her it was fine.

This can happen to oil change too. It happened in a walmart in oklahoma to another relative of ours. They forgot to refill oil or did not put the bolt properly. It had no oil. I did not see that but she had only asked me about it when I visited her when I used to live there. She wanted to know what kind of damage to look for.

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post #37 of 48 Old 02-20-2017, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iizbor3d View Post
I went today to get an estimate on a transmission fluid change for my 07 camry with 120k miles on it. The shop advised me against the change and to leave it since it is already to late and will cause damage. I looked at the dipstick the color is a brown but you can still see some lightness to it. I know it is late for a flush but I assumed a change won't do damage from what I read on forums and from ChrisFix. So am I better of with leaving it and letting the transmission run its life or should I go back to the shop and still request the work done?
I flushed my 2004 at 179K without any issue. Mine is at 230K now.
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post #38 of 48 Old 03-16-2017, 09:01 AM
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Just do it yourself, its very easy. Why you asked them to change your tranny pan and not do it yourself? We are talking about tranny oil change and NOT Flush!. Just warm car up for 3 minutes if cold and drain tranny fluid from drain bolt underneath. Collect all the fluid in pan. Open the tranny pan bolts, theres about. Dozen small tranny pan bolts to remove.
Now pry with screw driver the pan and remove it. Clean pan and magnet inside of pan lid. Buy new tranny pan filter and gasket, it costs $25 combined. Install in reverse order pan and bolts. If you want to get dirty and save a few bucks, you can reverse wash out filter after it is removed fro. Tranny, there is one bolt hilding it up, just remove bolt and pull hard to remove filter off. The dealers usually just wash tbem out and replace them, but I cant be bothered for few bucks to get dirty.
Once pan back on with gasket your almost done. Make sure your use common sense when replacing tranny bolts, they are very weak and can easily break as I did do that!
Then what I did was put the old oil pan on bathroom scales and weighed it. Then I weighed a few new Quart bottles till I got to near equivalent weight. Then just poured in new fluid into tranny from top. Start car and your done. You have now replaced some not all of the fluid. Next year replace fluid only to replenish and refresh only. Important tip. Only use Toyota tranny fluid from toyota to be safe! I used same spec other brand and paid more and my tranny missed and slipped. Some fluids do not have adequate "friction modifier particulates " in them, and will cause problems. Toyota has put warning lables on all new cars to advise you use their own brand. And its cheaper!
Easy job.
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post #39 of 48 Old 03-16-2017, 10:52 AM
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like all the guys are saying do drop and fills this is the best way not to move any parts or gunk around the valve body, you can use Max Life full synthetic trans fluid which help the trans last longer or Toyota
WS fluid only semi Synthetic both will work you will I prefer the Max Life I have pushed a 89 Toyota Cressida 529,000 same trans power steering and rear end using synthetic oil. I just sold a 1991 Lexus LS 400 with
400,000 miles and same story used Max Life in everything trans. PS and rear end. The next time you buy a new car change the trans fluid and power steering about 35,000 it will go the 200,000 miles plus I also use
Mobile 1 5w30 extended service in all my cars and go 15,000 miles between changes I also drive about 40-60,000 miles a year. You can change your fluids or get ready to change your car an old time car proverb.
The new Toyotas now use synthetic fluids and going 300,000 -500,000 miles is possible I've done it and now I am working on a Lexus RX300 to see just far I can push it. also don't forget to change your anti freeze every 3-4 years or 50,000 miles and brake fluid flush every 40,000 mikes REMEMBER TAKE CARE OF YOUR CAR AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU.
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post #40 of 48 Old 03-17-2017, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william m dowd View Post
like all the guys are saying do drop and fills this is the best way not to move any parts or gunk around the valve body, you can use Max Life full synthetic trans fluid which help the trans last longer or Toyota
WS fluid only semi Synthetic both will work you will I prefer the Max Life I have pushed a 89 Toyota Cressida 529,000 same trans power steering and rear end using synthetic oil. I just sold a 1991 Lexus LS 400 with
400,000 miles and same story used Max Life in everything trans. PS and rear end. The next time you buy a new car change the trans fluid and power steering about 35,000 it will go the 200,000 miles plus I also use
Mobile 1 5w30 extended service in all my cars and go 15,000 miles between changes I also drive about 40-60,000 miles a year. You can change your fluids or get ready to change your car an old time car proverb.
The new Toyotas now use synthetic fluids and going 300,000 -500,000 miles is possible I've done it and now I am working on a Lexus RX300 to see just far I can push it. also don't forget to change your anti freeze every 3-4 years or 50,000 miles and brake fluid flush every 40,000 mikes REMEMBER TAKE CARE OF YOUR CAR AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU.
MaxLife is good, I use it in everything domestic and Japanese now. Whenever I read BITOG forums, Toyota WS always gets a bad rap. I find MaxLife works better than WS in everything I've replaced it in.

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post #41 of 48 Old 03-17-2017, 05:42 AM
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the crush washers the toyota dealer sells really work well.
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post #42 of 48 Old 03-20-2017, 11:24 AM
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I hate to admit this, but I went 200,000 miles with my Tacoma. I changed the fluid, and have had another 35,000 miles with nothing but contiued reliability. So... go ahead and get your transmission fluid changed. I think you will have nothing to worry about. However, I think I'd find another shop to do the work, as most reputable shops would react differently to the fact that you had gone 120,000 miles without a fluid change. Most would have said "Gee, you've gone a bit too long, but we'll be more than happy to change your fluid." What your current shop said is a bit strange.
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post #43 of 48 Old 03-20-2017, 11:41 AM
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Why does a lot of (most all) car owners, wait until it's "too Late" to change out fluids like ATF, power steering fluid , anti freeze and brake fluid ??? Change the fluids at 50,000 miles and stop asking if it's too late.
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post #44 of 48 Old 03-20-2017, 11:58 AM
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If your tranny is slipping even a bit after an oil change, then drain and fill with Toyota tranny oil. It has a friction modifier added to it to stop tranny slip. It worked for me and Toyota also warms about not using their fluid in tranny!
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post #45 of 48 Old 03-20-2017, 12:13 PM
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The reason why mechanics sometimes don't advise tranny FLUSH on very old high milage cars that have never had a tranny flush before is because their afraid that bits floating in the pan may get sucked into the fine orfices in the tranny causing tranny to soon fail after oil change. So best to just do simple drain and refill, after a few drain and refills your just as good as new. Just do one every two years and I am ok. Don't FLUSH! Also while other oils may have good oil characteristics, you donít know if they have the toyota additives in the oil. If your tranny is old, I would always recommend Toyota oil, and not after market oils.
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