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hello all and some questions

1K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  Dj Dumb Bii 
#1 ·
hi, last month i stoled a 07 camry CE with 150k miles for 7500$ in extremelly good condition and every maintnanc erecord since it was bought at a toyota dealership with 50k only 2 years ago (got it from an older guy whoi had it for sale on side the road and didnt know about craigslist) right after i got it i proceeded with maintnance.
spark plugs, oil, both air filters, coolant flush and a tranny drain and fluid.
the car even felt a lot smoother after i did all this but i think it should be even a bit smeether that that what else i can try???
also sometimes when you go on reverse you hear somethingt rubbing and whining that it appears to be coming from the right left wheel
sounds like a window would sound when you roll it down in a very cold winter day when it hasnt been roled in a while (hope it makes sense)
im planning on doing a drain and fill of the transmission 3 mnore times, i was gonna drop the pan and replace filter the in the last drain and fill what yall think?

love this car and coming from a z71 with a 5.7l V8 you can imagine how happy my wallet is
 
#2 ·
spark plugs, oil, both air filters, coolant flush and a tranny drain and fluid.
the car even felt a lot smoother after i did all this but i think it should be even a bit smeether that that what else i can try???
also sometimes when you go on reverse you hear somethingt rubbing and whining that it appears to be coming from the right left wheel
sounds like a window would sound when you roll it down in a very cold winter day when it hasnt been roled in a while (hope it makes sense)
im planning on doing a drain and fill of the transmission 3 mnore times, i was gonna drop the pan and replace filter the in the last drain and fill what yall think?

love this car and coming from a z71 with a 5.7l V8 you can imagine how happy my wallet is
good job on the maintenance so far, but i have no clue on what could be causing the rubbing noise when you go in reverse (if you are going in a straight line).

these cars are supposed to last forever but i suppose going that extra step in dropping pan + replacing the pan is up to you.
 
#3 ·
I Really dont wanna stop the pan unless I have to, is it necessary?

The guy I bought the car from said he brought the car to the dealership and they couldn't

Find that noise. They didn't even hear it. Yes on a straight line. Anything else I should do as far as

Maintenance goes? I need this car to last at least 5 more years or 75k more miles with no trouble

Is also the car we are gonna take on long trips.

Some Hid in the near future and possibly some oem rims. It has decent power for being a 4 cyl too!
 
#4 ·
1. There is no particular need to drop the pan unless you find unusual things in the fluid.

2. The parking brake might be hanging up and dragging in reverse. I've seen this happen.

3. For those who post and want quick, accurate responses, the tool called "Spell Check" can be your friend.
 
#6 ·
First isolate the problem to the parking brake. Get someone to back the car as you listen at the wheel. It might be either left or right. Remove the wheel and see if it is dragging. If so, find out why. It might be something simple, like someone adjusted the cabling too tight. This all presupposes that this is the problem.
 
#8 · (Edited)
What spark plugs did you use? The reason I ask is because I have seen them affect sound. For example the 1GRFE out of a Tacoma/4Runner/FJ Cruiser/Tundra on the single VVT-I versions come with standard plugs. A brand spanking new truck sounds ridiculously loud and you would swear its an exhaust leak. They use standard plugs (2 different types on every engine) and I always assume it was normal (exhaust manifold or head design or something). My buddy had one and we replaced the plugs with iridium and the noise was completely gone. It actually sounded like a smooth engine, idled better, and picked up smoother. If you went with anything other than a Denso or NGK iridium it's possible this is your issue. Also the throttle body cleaning should also be done. I wrote down the procedure before but can't remember where. A dirty throttle body can cause the engine to be jerky with throttle movements (especially when starting since the ECU is opening and closing the throttle body electronically). On top of that maybe take it to the dealer and have a legitimate injector service performed. This uses a special Toyota tool and pressurized cleaner that goes directly into the fuel line at the rail (versus in the tank where some cleaners will likely evaporate before it reaches the injectors) to clean the injectors.

For the noise also check for any hanging plastic that may have been damaged in the 150k miles of life. Its also possible it has cheap aftermarket brake hardware. These produce more problems when cold.

For the transmission I personally don't drop the pan. In my experiece it almost always ends up being more trouble than it's worth and people end up with leaks.
 
#9 ·
What spark plugs did you use? The reason I ask is because I have seen them affect sound. For example the 1GRFE out of a Tacoma/4Runner/FJ Cruiser/Tundra on the single VVT-I versions come with standard plugs. A brand spanking new truck sounds ridiculously loud and you would swear its an exhaust leak. They use standard plugs (2 different types on every engine) and I always assume it was normal (exhaust manifold or head design or something). My buddy had one and we replaced the plugs with iridium and the noise was completet gone. It actually sounded like a smooth engine, idled better, and picked up smoother. If you went with anything other than a Denso or NGK iridium it's possible this is your issue. Also the throttle body cleaning should also be done. I wrote down the procedure before but can't remember where. A dirty throttle body can cause the engine to be jerky with throttle movements (especially when starting since the ECU is opening and closing the throttle body electronically). On top of that maybe take it to the dealer and have a legitimate injector service performed. This uses a special Toyota tool and pressurized cleaner that goes directly into the fuel line at the rail (versus in the tank where some cleaneres will likely evaporate before it reaches the injectors) to clean the injectors.

For the noise also check for any hanging plastic that may have even damaged in the 150k miles of life. Its also possible it has cheap aftermarket brake hardware. These produce more problems when cold.

For the transmission I personally don't drop the pan. In my experiece it almost always ends up being more trouble than it's worth and people end up with leaks.
damn, this is what i needed; i used NKG idridum and after changing the plugs it made a huuuge difference (it ran a LOT smoother but not like a thought it would)
im gonna try the TB cleaning before taking it to the stealership, let me know if you find that write up.
its official.. im not dropping the pan, just drain and fill 3 more times.
i will maybe remove the rear wheel and inspect the brake this weekend, yes the noise is there almost only when the car is cold

thanks a lot sir
 
#12 ·
and theres the douchebag of every thread, hating cuz i gotta better deal than him and paid cash for my car, i mean just read his name.....

i cleaned the TB on my car and it made a huge difference, runs like a new car, sounds smooth and rides 100% better, all i have to do is checked the rear right brake and thats it! my car is in top notch condition, also just did my 2nd drain and fill of the transmission. i gotta have the best and newest camry out there for less than 8k tune up included

thanks again
 
#13 ·
I'm pretty sure he was messing around. He was saying he thought you were literally saying you stole the Camry. No harm no foul.

Good to hear the throttle cleaning helped. As soon as I get home I'm going to make pics.
 
#14 ·
Lol, I'm not hating and not douche'n either. It was something readers had to read two times to see what you really sayin. You paid cash, fine, my was a gift for college from hard working parents.


-Bizeek
 
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