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'06 Camry (5th Gen) recently with Rough Idle

4K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  leakyseals 
#1 ·
As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.

I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.

Just wondering if others have seen this and what they think.
 
#2 ·
My suggestion? You need to have the throttle body and MAF (mass air flow sensor) cleaned. Go to an auto parts store and ask them what cleaners you'll need. If you didn't replace your sparkplugs at 120k, then do those too.
 
#3 ·
Here's the deal. At 105K, my wife went and got an oil change at some place near the house. They put 1 quart too much (or maybe more) that when the pressure built up, the oil had soaked my plugs, injectors, throttle body and air filter. I was out of town so my wife took the car to Firestone and they popped in some NGK iridium plugs. For some reason, I was thinking these came with platinum plugs. Either way, what would you recommend?

Also, I got some CRC Throttle Body and Air-Intake Cleaner, but someone told me that spray would damage the coating on the plate. If this is true, what do I use?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Coincidentally I just answered this in another post. Expanding on "its normal"..

Sorry to say, its the nature of the 2AZ-FE beast. A combination of I4 balance, engine displacement and age/miles. Its a very common complaint with most I4's of any manufacturer, any displacement. Your options are a buy v6, or take steps to lessen it. But it will never completely go away and there is nothing wrong with your engine.

ECU programming is another story

Example: This morning at cold startup it was fine. Was hot out, AC going, fans going, etc. An hour later I start it, can hear my license plate rattling. So the second start after the car had cooled down slightly had different results. Bad idle. So that means you can add ECU programming to the rough idle issues stated above.

I have a whole host of things you can do to lessen the shaking if your interested.
 
#5 ·
Coincidentally I just answered this in another post. Expanding on "its normal"..

Sorry to say, its the nature of the 2AZ-FE beast. A combination of I4 balance, engine displacement and age/miles. Its a very common complaint with most I4's of any manufacturer, any displacement. Your options are a buy v6, or take steps to lessen it. But it will never completely go away and there is nothing wrong with your engine.

ECU programming is another story

Example: This morning at cold startup it was fine. Was hot out, AC going, fans going, etc. An hour later I start it, can hear my license plate rattling. So the second start after the car had cooled down slightly had different results. Bad idle. So that means you can add ECU programming to the rough idle issues stated above.

I have a whole host of things you can do to lessen the shaking if your interested.
Any assistance on this matter is greatly appreciated! :)
 
#6 · (Edited)
OK..

  • Clean the TB and that small hole inside under the open plate. Be careful opening the TB plates as not to hurt the motor
  • New air filter. Make sure the bolts that seal the filter and the air intake box are not damaged or corroded and make a tight seal.
  • 2 bottles of techron concentrate poured slowly into the brake booster at 2500 rpm. The pour rate is the engine slows, but does not begin to stall.
  • Remove all engine oil deposits from the engine and the VVT-i system. An additive called Kreen is good, use of synthetics also helps.
  • Use of thin synthetics to lessen drag under load (AC on, fans, etc). Thin would be a 0w20 or a 5w30. Even a blend of the two. Mobil 1 is preferred, but others can be used. 7k OCI is fine with this oil.
  • Coolant drain and fill. Important for ECU to set correct temps for air fuel mix. Toyota Red or pink depending what factory fill was.
  • Replacement of pre-cat a/f O2 sensor. They can get fouled and lazy, setting fuel air trim incorrectly.
  • New Iridium plugs
That combination cleared my 02 I4 of 80% of the shake.
 
#10 ·
That's an option also. I've just dropped a bottle of Seafoam into the fuel tank with a full tank of Chevron's Plus (89 Octane). Wife drives this now and she's started a new job that requires her to put in a lot of highway miles. I plan on cleaning the throttle body this weekend along with replacing plugs and PCV Valve. After I know that car starts fine, I'll disconnect the negative terminal overnight (however I think an hour will do the same thing.) If that doesn't do it, mixing seafoam with the oil and doing an injector treatment with the Techron or Seafoam.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I'm anti-seafoam. Written about that a few times. Its a product that was created for problems with boat engines being marketed and hyped for almost everything. I would stick to the modern low oil PEA products for fuel system cleaning. High concentrations of pale oil and other lubricants is bad for o2 sensors and catalytic converters. Sure, the 20% IPA in seafoam feels good for a tankful because your boosting octane levels, but that goes away when the tank is done and your left with sticky lubricant from the combustion chamber to the tailpipe. The actual cleaning agent is Naphtha in low concentration. Far less effective than modern PEA.
 
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