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Why do the door 6x9s make rattling sounds when there is heavy bass music

10K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  JBez 
#1 ·
The speakers themselves are not rattling, but the door panels themselves are. What kind of cheap material did Toyota use on the Gen 5s to cause door rattles on the panel when listening to bass heavy music
 
#6 ·
I have thought about sound deadening material like Dynamat but it's a bit too expesnive to sound deaden a car to stop rattling (over $1k right?) I am still using the factory sound system, and with that kind of money I would rather spend a thousand dollars on something else.

It's called harmonics and resonance frequencies. It is the same reason that huge suspension bridge started bounceing and twisting like it was a rubber band, then collapsed entirely. This was caused by a crosswind that got it started moving very slightly at what happened to be the exact harmonic frequency for the suspended structure.

It is a very famous video in engineering classes, you can probably find it on the net. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge
Thanks my teacher, you are absolutely correct, I first heard this a week ago in a song called "subjective tones" by Bass 305.

Try having 8' midbass in your doors with the crossover set at 60Hz. Ive got dynamat, CCF and MLV inbetween the steel door and the door trim. Now ive put dynomat on the inside of the trim, its helped greatly.
Stick it over the joins in the plastic to stop them rubbing, and generally try and make the door trim heavier.
LOL I can only imagine, how much did all that cost you my friend?
 
#4 · (Edited)
It's called harmonics and resonance frequencies. It is the same reason that huge suspension bridge started bounceing and twisting like it was a rubber band, then collapsed entirely. This was caused by a crosswind that got it started moving very slightly at what happened to be the exact harmonic frequency for the suspended structure.

It is a very famous video in engineering classes, you can probably find it on the net. The Tacoma Narrows Bridge
 
#5 ·
Try having 8' midbass in your doors with the crossover set at 60Hz. Ive got dynamat, CCF and MLV inbetween the steel door and the door trim. Now ive put dynomat on the inside of the trim, its helped greatly.
Stick it over the joins in the plastic to stop them rubbing, and generally try and make the door trim heavier.
 
#7 ·
I have thought about sound deadening material like Dynamat but it's a bit too expesnive to sound deaden a car to stop rattling (over $1k right?) I am still using the factory sound system, and with that kind of money I would rather spend a thousand dollars on something else.
use B-Quiet ultimate-it's cheaper, lighter and more effective than Dynamat, or use poor man's deadener- any asphalt based roof sealant (Peel-n-Seal, or Quick Roof) and packing foam.

spend $50-70 for 3-4 way 6x9 speakers and you 'll get better sound and less vibration too.
 
#8 ·
use B-Quiet ultimate-it's cheaper, lighter and more effective than Dynamat, or use poor man's deadener- any asphalt based roof sealant (Peel-n-Seal, or Quick Roof) and packing foam.

spend $50-70 for 3-4 way 6x9 speakers and you 'll get better sound and less vibration too.

Not all deadener is the same. It may be tempting to go for something cheaper, but ive found they dont stick very well, and they are are too light. You dont want it to be light. You need more mass to lower the resonance. Stick to dynamat or fatmat or similar.

And i dont know how changing your speakers is going to cause less vibration.

A bulk pack (9 sheets) is roughly $150. This is plenty. At the most you would need 2 sheets per door. Or you could just buy individual sheets and use 1 per door on just the door trim.

Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
You don't need to sound deadening the whole car, that would cost about 1k or more. All you need is do the front doors and the rear deck and that'll take care of the rattling tremendously. I have a pretty nice system in my car and all I did was the front doors, rear deck, and most of the trunk. I did the trunk because I have subs in there. Since you don't have subs you only need the front doors and the rear deck, I'm pretty sure it'll cost no more than $250 parts and labor. I have Hushmat and it costed me $400 to do the front doors, rear deck, and the trunk, parts and labor.
 
#12 · (Edited)
+100
do your doors, outer shell behind speakers and inner shell:
put 4-6" of solid material around speakers and for rest of the door 3x3 or 2x2 or patches. you don't have to cover your entire door in order to get significant improvement.
put some deadened on the driver and passenger floor + as far as you can go on the fire wall and rear wheel wells from inside to block road noise.

almost forgot about it..
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...01-sound-proofing-camry-lexus-conversion.html
:)
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yep. Did a search, and of course on b-quiets page, they said how much better they are (of course), but i also checked all the forum pages that came up asking for personal comparisons. 9/10 said to buy other products.
every opinion counts. I used dynamat twice on my cars. Like B-quiete better because it thinner, lighter, cheaper and gives at least same effect.
when you buying Dynamit you paying for the product and you must pay extra for the name.

I still dont get how you get this conclusion. Its still going to vibrate his door panel. Which is his initial problem.
Also the "membrane" of the speaker has no influence either. The factory speaker is a paper cone. My Hybrid speakers are paper cone. And they are top of line speakers. Look at home theatre gear.
try any even mid range priced fiber cone with polymer surround speakers and you'll feel difference right away.
even stock JBL speakers are very chip vs store bought JBL speakers.
they might be top of the line for toyota, but vs any good speakers they are crap.
plastic panels mostly vibrate because vibration from the cones wasn't blocked by surround material and frame and was passed to the door.
good speakers will not eliminate vibration completely, but will reduce it dramatically.
and also they have better frequency and sensitivity.
anybody who will remove you stock speakers and compared it even to Walmart pioneers we'll see what I'm talking about.
of course you can by expensive speakers but it all comes to one thing: how much you can and willing to spend.
spend little for sound deadener, little for new speakers and your stock stereo will sound much better.
 
#15 ·
every opinion counts. I used dynamat twice on my cars. Like B-quiete better because it thinner, lighter, cheaper and gives at least same effect.
when you buying Dynamit you paying for the product and you must pay extra for the name.



try any even mid range priced fiber cone with polymer surround speakers and you'll feel difference right away.
even stock JBL speakers are very chip vs store bought JBL speakers.
they might be top of the line for toyota, but vs any good speakers they are crap.
plastic panels mostly vibrate because vibration from the cones wasn't blocked by surround material and frame and was passed to the door.
good speakers will not eliminate vibration completely, but will reduce it dramatically.
and also they have better frequency and sensitivity.
anybody who will remove you stock speakers and compared it even to Walmart pioneers we'll see what I'm talking about.
of course you can by expensive speakers but it all comes to one thing: how much you can and willing to spend.
spend little for sound deadener, little for new speakers and your stock stereo will sound much better.
VERY TRUE!

I've seen the JBL speakers from my uncle's 2004 Sequoia and from the look of it, I honestly think they're only worth about $100 per set. The factory non-JBL speakers from my 2011 Camry is comparable to some $50/set. High end speakers does have very little vibration when playing moderately loud music, they're very well built and much much heavier compare to the factory ones, both JBL and non-JBL. I have HERTZ HSK165 in the front and HCX690 in the back to I speak from personal experience. There's little vibration when I was pushing them at max volume, then I installed Hushmat to where all the speakers are and the sound drastically improved, it was louder, clearer and "fuller" than before the Hushmat.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Dude I had the exact same problem with my right front speaker. I took off my door panel this past weekend, if you look at the bottom right theres an indent in the plastic lining (This plastic lining buffets when heavy bass plays, and causes that rattling vibration noise, along with the door panel vibration) that may or may not be cut out. If its not, cut it out, the hole should fit a piece on the interior door piece perfectly, and it ports out the air coming from the speaker when pumped which reduces the vibration dramaticly (next to dynamatting, obviously).

See picture for reference:
 
#17 ·
From ADRideau's Update Thread

This is what I used to tackle that sorry excuse for door speakers....




Needless to say that I was some damn surprised to see how cheap those factory speakers were! Even with the molding surrounding it, it still weighed about 10oz!! :(

 
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