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DIY 2AZFE Throttle Cleaning Gen 5 and 6 Camry and Gen 2 Solara with pics!

102K views 66 replies 40 participants last post by  eltorogrande 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello I was working on my neighbors Gen 5.5 Camry today and decided I would snap some pictures of the process I like to use to clean the throttle body. I have used this method to clean HUNDREDS of Toyota throttle bodies and do so on all my own cars. This procedure will apply identically to all 2002-2009 Camry and 2004-2008 Solara, with the later Gen 6 Camry and Gen 2 Solara (2007+) 2AZFE only differing in the location of the resonator, which makes removing the clamp a little bit harder.

This procedure is similar in all Rav4, Scion tC, Corolla, Matrix, Highlander, etc. with a 2AZFE engine. The process is basically the same for all DBW Toyotas with differences in clamp style and orientation in the engine bay.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not liable for any damage or injury that may result from you following this DIY. Vehicles should be serviced by qualified technicians. Proceed at your own risk.

Tools needed.

10MM Socket
Ratchet
6" extension (for ratchet)
Decently long needle nose pliers
Throttle Cleaner
Old toothbrush

Step 1. Park your car in the work area and pop open your hood (sorry for the blurry picture).



Step 2. Remove the keys from the ignition. Place them somewhere away from the ignition (seat, inside the house, tool box, under hood, etc.)



Caution: This step is crucial. Attempting to open the throttle with the key on could damage it.

Step 3. Remove the engine cover. Using your 10mm socket and ratchet remove the two 10MM nuts (Circled in white) from the studs. Then pull the cover up and off of the engine.



Step 4. Remove the PCV hose off the valve cover by grasping it with your hand and pulling it straight off (I have never encountered one that wouldnt come off). If it doesn't come off, using your needle nose pliers depress the clamp, slide it down the hose towards the airbox, and twist off the hose.



Step 5. Remove the MAF sensor connector. Depress the connector release and pull the connector off of the MAF sensor.



Step 6. Remove the EVAP VSV connector using the same method for the MAF.



Step 7. Remove the EVAP VSV hose that goes to the EVAP line. Press in the ears of the hose clamp and move the clamp down the hose. Then twist and pull the hose off.



Step 8. Remove the Vacuum line from the throttle body by pulling it straight off (or using the same method as in step 7, your choice).



Step 9. Loosen the 2 captive screws (they only loosen and dont come out all the way) from the air box cover using your ratchet, extension, and 10mm socket. There is one bolt each located on the left and right sides of the air box when facing the engine from the driver side strut area.



Step 10. Lock the air intake hose clamp into the open position. Using your long pliers press in the ears of the clamp and slowly let go until the clamp locks in the open positon.

Clamp




Locked open



Step 11. Remove the air intake hose, VSV, and air box cover as one assembly and move it to the side. Pull the intake hose off of the throttle body and move the entire airbox assembly with intake hose to the side.



Step 12. Observe your dirty throttle body.



Step 13. Spray and small amount of throttle cleaner into the closed throttle body.



Step 14. Using your hand open the throttle body valve and spray a small amount of throttle cleaner into the bore. Less is more here.



Step 15. Using your toothbrush brush the throttle body inside. If it gets dry lightly spray it again. Be sure to clean every part you can, include the throttle valve top, bottom, and edge, as well as all top and bottom of the bore.



Step 16. Watch as all the nasty carbon in your throttle body shows itself.



Step 17. Wash down all the carbon with your throttle cleaner with as little throttle cleaner as it takes (dont spray the whole can in there, just enough to wash off all the carbon). Brush it down one more time with the toothbrush and wash it down one last time and observe your clean throttle body.



Step 18. Reinstall your air intake hose, air box cover, and EVAP VSV assembly.



Step 19. Reinstall the throttle body clamp. First position the clamp in such a way that it can removed in the future. Then lock the clamp closed by pressing the ears in, twisting the pliers, and releasing until the clamp goes back into the closed position.

Step 20. Reinstall the air box cover bolts.

Step 21. Reinstall the vacuum hose on your throttle body. If you loosened the clamp, be sure to move it back to its original position.

Step 22. Reinstall the EVAP hose on the EVAP VSV. If you loosened the clamp, be sure to move it back to its original position.

Step 23. Reinstall the EVAP VSV connector.

Step 24. Reinstall the MAF sensor connector.

Step 25. Reinstall the PCV valve hose. If you loosened the clamp, be sure to move it back to its original position.

Step 26. Reinstall the engine cover.

Step 27. Retrieve your keys.

Step 28. Start the car. It may take a few tries to eventually start. When it does start give it a good rev to at least 4000 rpms a few times to clear it out.

Step 29. Go for a test drive. Make sure to floor the gas a few times to clear it out.

Step 30. Enjoy your now clean throttle body with the benefit of a smoother idle.
 
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#3 ·
Thanks hardtopte72!

I still cannot understand why there were so many posts about problems with TB cleaning. That was exactly what I did on my Accord that does not have Drive-by-Wire.

Thanks again,

Sam
 
#6 ·
I do this because by saying its ok to use larger amounts some people will hydro lock the motor (I have seen this almost happen with technicians) so I would rather just inform people to use just enough to clean. You can bend a rod or completely hydrolock it just from using too much cleaner.
 
#12 ·
good write up.
thanks.
I cleaned my 2007 camry throttle body same way. but was pretty generous on cleaner, so car didn't start at first.
there is easy solution.
press accelerator pedal half way down and start your engine.
it might "cough" smoke cloude on the first try, but will start normally after that.
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
Yes, what you have read is false. So long as the key is not in the ON position no damage will result.

And if too much spray you can do flood clear mode "Wide open throttle starting". But just in case that is why i advise to spray a little at a time and use the toothbrush.
 
#65 ·
I thought this was the proper way to clean a throttle body? I don’t know if I feel comfortable spraying and pushing liquid dirt into the motor..

Does anyone have a write up that includes the removal of the throttle body?

Otherwise I’ll try to YouTube it.
 
#14 ·
I would turn the ignition on and press the gas pedal down to open the throttle body so you dont cause any damage to the DBW TB. You may do hundreds and not have any problems but its not worth the risk.
 
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#15 ·
There is no risk.

So long as the key isn't in the ignition nothing will happen and nothing has happened.

Also for engines like the 2GRFE pressing the gas pedal with key on doesnt open the throttle enough for cleaning.

I have used this method with EVERY SINGLE DBW Toyota throttle including my own cars, family cars, and other cars I service without a single issue.

As a matter off fact I just did did a TB cleaning on my FIL's car on New Years eve. 2007 DBW 1ZZFE which I also did a DIY on in the Corolla section without issue.

Damaging the TB with key off or out of the ignition is a myth. These cars are not that fragile.
 
#38 ·
What about engines like my '06 3MZ-FE? I'm terrified about doing damage to the DBW system.
I'll be all like :facepalm::headbang::clap::facepalm: If I do something to it.
Key on, Brick on pedal should move it out of the way? Or is Key off, by hand the way to go?
 
#16 ·
I have seen people damage them when cleaning by just opening the TB with their hands. Maybe they had the key in the ignition, or turned on, who knows. Im not risking a very expensive TB. Like I said you could do a million and not have an issue, then someone else could do one and mess it up, you never know.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Based on the sheer number I would say that I know pretty well.

I too have seen the damage caused by a key on throttle opening. Which is why I state to make sure.

You can use a pedal depressor, brick, stick, all you want. I am just pointing out in the hundreds (probably closer to thousands) of these cleanings I have done I have had not one issue doing this method.

Also with a 2GRFE owner the above method doesn't work. That throttle at key on engine off pedal floored only opens maybe 5-10%.

Also if you are cleaning and whatever you use slips off the pedal while you are cleaning then damage will likely result. In that sense its more risky.

To each their own. Ill keep using this method.
 
#18 ·
hey , ill add to this old thread

im considering doing this tomorrow. as i got the time,

e.g i'm unemployed as of yesterday. :thumbsup:


if any one of worried about causing damaged to electrical modules and such. just disconnect the battery. no power no problems.

the whole car is a dead lump of metal and plastic, go to town!

then reconnect the battery after your done and start it up. if it pulls a engine light, just turn it off and disconnect the negative for a few minutes. press on the brake for few seconds, to get that remaining charge out of the car. and bobs your aunty!!:D
 
#21 ·
Just cleaned my TB yesterday. I used my finger to open it, but I will probably go with turning the ignition to ON and using something to press the pedal down next time. You can tell it's DBW with a motor because it's hard to keep open and it feels mechanized. I cleaned my aunt's '04 Accord I4 which has a cable, and hers (besides being at the very front and extremely easy to get to) was very easy to move with my fingers and cleaned up very well. She had a sticky pedal and her TB had never been cleaned - though she only has 30K miles - so I did it for her.

My car is at 51K miles and had one TB/fuel rail cleaning at about 30K miles 4-5 years ago so it wasn't too dirty. The walls of the TB were a little bit black though. My gf borrowed my car the other week and mentioned my car shakes when the AC is on and she's coming to a stop, which I noticed too. Cleaning the TB has almost completely eliminated that.

All in all, A+ for the write up! I just wanted to add that my idle was abnormally high for a little bit even when the car was warm. I was going to disconnect the battery cable to reset the ECU but driving it for a little bit fixed it and the idle is back to normal.

Thanks for the write up :)
 
#22 · (Edited)
Good write up. But very long and unnecessary steps to remove all that. So I have done this four times on my 02 Camry 4 cyl.

1. All one has to do is remove the top VVT-I cover and then reach over and remove the intake hose at the throttle body and let it aside...

2. Turn the key-on and use a stick against the gas pedal and seat, so the throttle plate is open. Then spray throttle body cleaner, stick a paper towel or soft tooth brush in and wipe and re-spay some more cleaner and repeat this a few times...

3. Put the hose back on the intake and the top cover... disconnecting the batt is not needed in most cases. Once I got a check engile light due to the cleaner but it went away in about 60-80 miles...
 
#50 ·
Just did a throttle clean with some CRC Kleen.

I agree with what you said.
Removing the cover, unclamping the throttle body hose, removing the main evap hose and thats it, that all thats needed and there is enough space to set the throttle body hose aside and work on cleaning it. I dont see the point to remove everything and risking damaging the already sentitive MAF.

Also I would go against opening the butterfly by hand. Not sure about a stick, but a dumbbell or even a brick would do the job on the pedal. On my long nosed Solara 2004, it is very hard to reach with one hand, open the butterfly and do the clean up with the other. Why not use the pedal and use two hands.
 
#23 ·
While it looks like a lot of steps it really only take like 10 minutes.

Pop the engine cover, disconnect 3 hoses, loosen air box, remove tube and box. Clean, reinstall.

I can do this in around 5 minutes in most cases.
 
#25 ·
............. The process is basically the same for all DBW Toyotas with differences in clamp style and orientation in the engine bay.

Step 30. Enjoy your now clean throttle body with the benefit of a smoother idle.

Thanks to your excellent DIY guide, I was able to clean the throttle body on my 2007 Camry DBW.

The only difference is that I did NOT remove the air filter box. Only the big rubber air hose and
little hoses attached to it.

The big metal locking ring attaching the big air hose to the throttle body itself was PITA to lock
into place for removal on this vehicle because there's not that much room to stick my hand in.

To my surprise, my 80,000 2007 Camry's throttle body was really clean. I only sprayed the
cleaner a couple of times. I gently moved the butterfly valve as described. There's definitely
a resistance, but not too bad. Once I let go of my finger, it moved back in place. I got the
area behind the valve as clean as I could. I pointed a flashlight and stared into the back and
there was almost no trace of black gunk at all. (yes, I'm a little OCD when it comes to cleaning
stuff... my engine bay is also cleaned regularly :D )

After I put everything back securely and reconnected the battery, I started the car. It hesitated
on the first try. On the 2nd try, it started normally. I drove it for ten minutes.

Here's the thing... the idle vibration did not go away. This is the only 4-cylinder car in my family.
The others are all V6 engines. Is the vibration normal for a 4-cylinder car with only 80,000 miles?

I've used Mobile 1 5W-20 synthetic for the entire 80,000 miles. When the car only had 100 miles,
I drained the factory-filled oil and started with Mobil 1. The oil is changed every 5000 miles with
no exception. Every other oil change, I also put in a bottle of Chevron Techron. I only fill it up at
Shell, Exxon, BP, or other big name gas stations.

Is there something else that I can fix/repair/clean/replace to get rid of(or at least lower) the
idle vibration with AC on? I've thought about the engine mounts, but I don't know how to
tell if they need replacing.

Any other advice appreciated!

:)
 
#26 ·
Late reply but my best advice would be to put the shift selector in neutral when the car is stopped at a light. I do this and that may be a big reason I don't notice idle quality issues.
 
#30 ·
Yeah they do vibrate. But after 2 years messing with mine its pretty good now. Was a vacuum leak that was really hard to find but right under my nose on the air box! One of those odd looking resonators were loose!
 
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