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DIY Clean and Adjust Rear Drum Brakes Gen 3, Gen 4, Gen 5, Gen 5.5 with Pics!

41K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  hardtopte72 
#1 · (Edited)
I was working on my neighbor's Gen 5.5 again and decided to do a DIY for the rear clean and adjust for drum brake Camry vehicles. This procedure is the same for Solara and other similiar drum brake Toyota vehicles with the adjuster accessed from in front of the drum.

This DIY will apply to 1992-2006 drum brake Camry, as the brake design is identical. This DIY is done on the passenger side but the driver side is identical.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.

Tools and supplies needed:

1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar
1/2 Inch Drive 21mm Socket
1/2 Inch Drive torque wrench that goes up to at least 100 ft lbs. (optional but recommended)
Jack
Jack stands
Brake Parts Cleaner x2 (may only need 1 depending on level of clean needed)
Drain Pan
Brake Spoon or Small Pry Bar (for prying shoes from drum backing plate)
Brake Contact Grease (for backing plate)
Toothbrush, Wirebrush, Paint Brush (for cleaning the crud from the brake parts)
Any wheel lock keys you may need to remove your aftermarket wheels or OEM wheel locks
M8 x 1.25 Bolts x2 (for drum removal)

Let's begin!

Step 1. Park your car on a decently level surface, shut the engine off, and chock the front wheels.

Note: If using a breaker bar to remove the wheels now is a good time to loosen the lug nuts using your 21mm socket.




Step 2. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and lower it securely on jack stands.



Step 3. Remove the rear wheels. Using your 1/2 drive breaker bar and socket (wheel lock key etc.) or an impact gun like I did remove all 5 lug nuts securing the rear wheels.



Step 4. Remove the rear drum. You can remove them a few ways. You can either use a hammer on the face to loosen the drum (worked on passenger but not driver side) or using 2 M8x1.25??? bolts alternately tighten 2 bolts into the threaded holes in the drum. After loosening the drum, remove it and reinstall it backwards onto the hub.

Caution: Be sure the parking brake is not set. Failure to do so may result in damage to the springs, hardware, and or crack the drum.

Method 1:



Method 2:





Step 5. Clean out the drum. Using your brake cleaner spray the drum while rotating it on the hub and cleaning all around. It may even help to use your toothbrush to loosen up the stuff.



Step 6. Remove the clean drum and lay it facing down to drain.



Step 7. Observe your dirty rear brake assembly and place your bucket/pan underneath it to catch all the stuff about to come off of it.



Step 8. Spray down the entire drum and using your toothbrush remove all of brake you can being sure to hit the hard to reach areas like the wheel cylinder, inside the shoes, underneath with the toothbrush.



Step 9. This is the hardest part of the whole job and the most important. Failure to do this simple step has result in more noise in more drums then you can imagine. The shoes each contact the backing plate in 3 places. That is 6 total shoe to backing plate contact points per drum located at the top, middle, and bottom of each shoe (you can see the area the contact is made by looking at each shoe). If this area is dry when braking you will hear a grinding, scratching, or squealing from the metal to metal contact. This step will stop that from happening and fix any existing issues you might have. Using your brake spoon or small pry bar, pry the shoe away from the backing and apply the lubricant to the back of the shoe. Its ok if you get a little grease on the shoe, you can wipe it off later. Try not to pry to hard or can break a small chunk off of the shoe. Its ok if that happens too as it wont hurt anything.

Read this thread to see how important this step is. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/132-9th-generation-2003-2008/414007-rear-brake-problem.html



Step 10 (optional). Apply a small layer of grease to the hub to make removing the drum next time easier and to prevent wheels from sticking to a rusty hub.



Step 11. Using your rag or paper towel wiper any excess grease you may have gotten on the shoes and backing plate.



Step 12. Reinstall the brake drum (it may be a good idea to remove the plug now as I forgot until the drum was installed). Be sure to reinstall it correctly. There are 2 holes in the hub. Only one way of installation will result in you being able to turn the adjuster. Install the drum with the hole in the drum inline with the hole in the hub. The hole in the hub to align with is the hole that is drilled closer to the left stud (bottom hole in this picture).



Step 13. Remove the plug from the drum if you didn't in step 12.



Step 14. Align the hole with the star wheel adjuster and using your break spoon, pry bar, or flat head screw driver turn the adjuster counter clockwise (from down to up while listening for an audible click). After every 3-4 clicks turn to drum by hand to make sure it isnt completely stuck. Go inside the car and pull the parking brake up and release it 3-4 times and then recheck your adjustment. The brakes should be adjusted to where there is a noticeable drag when putting barely any pressure with the wheel off but not so hard that you have to use a lot of force to turn it. If you overadjust the adjuster simply reverse direction (up to down=clockwise) rotation and then redo your adjustment. This car seems to have never had ad adjustment in over 84K miles. The driver side needed around 18 clicks and the passenger side around 25 clicks. Yours may be different based on your mileage and maintenance history.
Sorry for the bad pic. It started raining.



Step 15. Reinstall the plug.



Step 16. Reinstall your wheels and barely snug the lug nuts.



Step 17. Lower the car off the jack stands onto the ground. Using your torque wrench, torque the lug nuts to 76 lb ft.



Step 18. Go for a test drive and notice your tighter parking brake and higher brake pedal engagement. Be sure to pull up the parking brake up and down a few times to set all the parts properly.

Step 19. Be amazed at how you just saved yourself some money and fixed your issue. Total cost to do this is around 15 bucks if you already have the jack and jack stands.
 
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#6 ·
Step 14. Align the hole with the star wheel adjuster and using your break spoon, pry bar, or flat head screw driver turn the adjuster counter clockwise (from down to up while listening for an audible click). After every 3-4 clicks turn to drum by hand to make sure it isnt completely stuck. Go inside the car and pull the parking brake up and release it 3-4 times and then recheck your adjustment. The brakes should be adjusted to where there is a noticeable drag when putting barely any pressure with the wheel off but not so hard that you have to use a lot of force to turn it. If you overadjust the adjuster simply reverse direction (up to down=clockwise) rotation and then redo your adjustment. This car seems to have never had ad adjustment in over 84K miles. The driver side needed around 18 clicks and the passenger side around 25 clicks. Yours may be different based on your mileage and maintenance history.
Looking for clarification as I'll be doing rear brake maintenance on mine this weekend. It had 169K on it when I got it, and I have no idea the service history. So, some checking/maintaining is needed, IMO. Anyway, just to be clear, the drum, when adjusted, should have SOME resistance when spung by hand but not so much that it's hard to spin, correct? I've never had drum brakes to adjust before so I'm unsure of the "feel" here. Thanks!
 
#7 ·
Some drag is that when spinning the drum it should stop on its own, not continue spinning indefinitely.

You will also be able to feel the parking brake lever difference. 3-5 clicks is a good range.
 
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#8 ·
Some drag is that when spinning the drum it should stop on its own, not continue spinning indefinitely.

You will also be able to feel the parking brake lever difference. 3-5 clicks is a good range.
Ah ok, now that's good info. See on my Z31, the range is 7-8 clicks which is what I currently have on the Camry (I figured this was a commonality between e-brakes). So it definitely needs adjustment then. Thanks!
 
#11 ·
I save the big jugs that laundry detergent comes in and use those to dispose of brake wash, fluids, etc by taking them to AutoZone, WallyWorld or wherever takes them.
 
#10 ·
I keep a large quantity of old Mobil 1 5 quart jugs (like 20 gallons worth) to use for waste oil and coolant.

I then take the full bottles to Advance Auto or Autozone and dump the contents and keep the bottle.

If you dumped it on the ground you would leave a large black soot mark from the brake dust.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Great post; I just put all new rear brakes (shoes, springs, drums...); and thanks to you returned my first set of drums (no access hole!) and got the correct drums with the access adjustment hole in the front of the drum, from a a different store (CARQUEST can't get them anymore; had to go to NAPA, which is where the Toyota dealer sent me; they get THEIRs there! Hmmm.


Anyway, one question; you mention 'backing off' if too tight. I tried for quite a while, and failed, to release the tension on the adjustment 'ratchet spring' by pushing it back, but couldn't do it through that little hole, and adjust ratchet wheel at the same time. Is there some trick to that? If I DON'T push the ratchet plate back, afraid I'll break it (or wear the teeth on the adjuster). Left them 'too tight', but brand new so hopefully will loosen up quickly, some slow easy driving for a bit... Have just barely 3 clicks on E-brake, so plenty tight NOW, might wear in just right if I don't overheat them while wearing those high spots off initially......
 
#13 ·
Embarassing Question

I changed the rear brake shoes on my 05 Camry. I may have installed the adjustor backwards on the driver side; that side is "in-adjusting" and the hand brake gets looser and looser. You have a picture of the passenger side. In that picture I would describe the position of the adjustor as "the spring is toward the rear of the car and the hook end is toward the front". How should it be installed on the driver side? Is the spring toward the rear and the hook toward the front, or is it the opposite? Thanks.
 
#14 ·
I changed the rear brake shoes on my 05 Camry. I may have installed the adjustor backwards on the driver side; that side is "in-adjusting" and the hand brake gets looser and looser. You have a picture of the passenger side. In that picture I would describe the position of the adjustor as "the spring is toward the rear of the car and the hook end is toward the front". How should it be installed on the driver side? Is the spring toward the rear and the hook toward the front, or is it the opposite? Thanks.
It should be the same configuration. What do you have now?
 
#15 ·
great write up moderator and with pics too. i noticed when i did mine on my 06 that the rear drums were extrememly backed off too. in the olden days, backing up and hitting the brakes would adjust them automatically. do the new drum brake systems not do this anymore? i ask also since you said you do this every 15k or so.
seems like you'd only need to adjust them snug when you put new shoes /drums on and thereafter would stay adjusted. what am i missing.
tony
 
#18 ·
Another poster showing his age! Me too.

On my old Fords, the theory was the star-wheel adjusters on the drum brakes would self-adjust, when you shifted to reverse & FIRMLY, repeatedly, applied the brakes. You did this if your parking brake had too much travel, made too many clicks when depressed, & / or if the parking-brake cable stretched, & they did.

One accessed them thru the rear of the backing plate, facing towards the drive shaft & pumpkin, through a slotted-hole covered with a rubber plug.

Is this not the case w/ modern Toyota drums?
 
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