Power steering fluid is easy to maintain. Just siphon/refill it at every oil change or 2, or 10k. Upgrade to a full synthetic ATF like Amsoil, Redline, Mobil1, RoyalPurple, Eneos, Valvoline Maxlife.... If you change out that pint every 10k, you'll waste ~10 quarts of fluid over 200k and avoid all the common PS pump/rack fluid related failures. A Magnefine is a worthy investment if you don't want to siphon/refill that frequently. With a Magnefine, I'd would just change it with the fluid every 30k. That would would run you about 6-7 Magnefines and 6-7 quarts of ATF over that 200k.
The ATF should 1st be flushed at 30k. With your highway driving, I'd then change it every 60k.
If you want to push the fluid to 100k, then I'd recommend the Magnefine now and every ~30k with a fluid level check/topoff after every Magnefine replacement. I am NOT impressed with the quality of the WS fluid in the FWD/AWD vehicles. The RWD/4WD truck trannies tolerate it much better.
For the oil/filter with your commute, I'd change it out every 10k, with oil checks/topoffs every 2 weeks. Keep the dipstick at full always. Use ANY SN/GF5 synthetic motor oil in ANY 20 or 30 weight. For cooler climates, the 0w20's and 0w30's are great. For warmer months, the 5w20's, 5w30's, 10w30's are great choices too. And, you can use ANY of those weights year round if it is a full synthetic recommended for SN/GF5 usage. Any oil filter can be used and OE is an easy choice. I don't see the need to go 5k on the oil changes if using a full synthetic and driving ~4000 miles a month.
I'd stick with Pink, Zerex Asian, Peak Global, or any equivalent other automaker antifreeze. Change it out every 50k or about once a year. A coolant additive and WP lube can be added. I'm currently using Lubegard KoolIt dosed via the directions per the sump capacity. I've used Redline Waterwetter, Royalpurple PurpleIce, Amsoil CoolantBoost, Wynns, BG.... and would recommend picking one and sticking with it during your new fluid changes and top offs. I'm am not impressed by the side effects that I've seen with 100k coolant changes. Note that most of those 100k coolants are only 100k for the 1st 100k. Each subsequent change is usually at 50k(half time).
I'd bleed the brakes every 2 years. I'd either use the Motive pressure or Mityvac vacuum bleed and try to get at least 12-16 ounces out of each bleeder. Bleed after every/any brake work. Unless you're a traction control, stability control, ABS junkie, or leadfoot, your OE brakes should last a while. I'm not brand specific but tend to stick with any DOT 4, 4+, or 5.1 fluid.
My cars eat cabin air filters. So, you can just inspect them at each oil change and change out when needed. I get all kinds of critter buildup, leaves/pine needles, dirt/dust.... and am forced to just replace it at every oil change. You can buy 5, 10, or 15 packs reasonably cheap online.
I wouldn't go over 30k on an engine air filter and would use any quality reputable air filter. OE is an easy choice.
If you stick with toptier fuel, I wouldn't worry about being too aggressive with fuel injector cleaners. Consider once or twice a year alternating among: 3m, TechronConcentrate, BG44k, Redline SI1, Amsoil...... If you don't stick with toptier fuel, then use a bottle at every oil change.
I like changing out the serpentine belts at 60k and they should last 100k with your driving.
My AC's are charged every 100k or 5 years. That charge would be a full evac and measured refill.
With your driving, I'd also change the thermostat at 100k.