HardtopTE72 New Camry and Solara Purchase Recommendations thread - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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HardtopTE72 New Camry and Solara Purchase Recommendations thread

This is a comprehensive recommendation list for anyone who fell into, purchased, or is generally interested in recommendations for their Camry. This list has been compiled based on my experience. While this list is specific to the car listed, most of the information will apply equally to Solara, Highlander, Sienna, Scion xB, Scion tC, or any cars that share a similar engine.

This list is not definitive and is only a guide. If you feel anything should be added to the list feel free to post a reply or contact me.

Gen 5/5.5/Solara 2AZFE


Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: I like the Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 lines of oils. Others like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc for synthetic oil.. A 5 quart jug will be enough for I4 since they take a little more than 4 quarts.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Denso Iridium are the OEM plugs. Denso or NGK are the only plugs I would consider, most will agree.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium: SK20R11
Denso Iridium: Power IK20
Denso Iridium TT: 4702
NGK Laser Iridium: IFR6A11/IFR6T11 (same plug just the "A" plug is dealer only)
NGK Iridium IX: BKR6EIX-11

Water pump: If showing sign of leaking or weeping replace it. If not maybe consider changing anyway or closely monitor.

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife or the Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle fluids. I have also used Castrol Import Transmax, or Toyota Type T-IV with great results. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Manual Transmission oil: If going manual transmission I like Redline MT90 for fluid. Others also like Amsoil, Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90, and Royal purple synthetic gear oil. 2.5 quarts is needed.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil Filter - I like Fram Ultra XG3600 and Purolator PureOne PL20195 for their price, construction, higher capacity, and leading filtering ability as an oil filter and only Denso engine Air filters. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil. I recommend going with the larger V6/V8 Toyota filters for their higher capacity.

Air filter - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-0H010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a felt media type filter element that is known to clog and cause severe problems on poorly maintained transmissions. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

Part Numbers:

PCV Valve - 12204-28020
PCV Hose (if damaged) - 12262-0H010

Don't forget to check replace things like drive belt, oil leaks, wiper blades, struts (ride quality), tires, brake pads, etc.


Gen 5/5.5/Solara 1MZFE/3MZFE V6

Timing Belt (depending on mileage): This should be replaced every 7 yrs or 90K miles. When replacing a timing belt, I HIGHLY recommend replacing everything wearable that has to do with the timing belt including: Timing belt, water pump, both front camshaft seals, front crankshaft seal, timing belt upper idler, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner idler, and drive belts. In addition to those parts and since the coolant should be replaced anyway, I highly recommend replacing the thermostat as well, using only a new Toyota or OEM Thermostat (Kuzeh, Tama, etc.).

Here are some kits you can use to DIY or have a friend or shop do it to save parts costs.

Here is a very nice kit which includes all OEM parts (without the Toyota name) and includes every conceivable thing you need except 2 gallons of coolant. I would buy this kit.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=07296552194

No tensioner

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=82087749448

No tensioner or thermostat.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=82087749448

No front seals or drive belts

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=82087749448

I have used these kits and the parts are identical to factory.

I recommend a complete maintenance workup right off the bat.

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: I like the Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 lines of oils. Others like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc for synthetic oil.. A 5 quart jug will be enough for I4 since they take a little more than 4 quarts.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Denso Iridium are the OEM plugs. Denso or NGK are the only plugs I would consider, most will agree. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs as the gaskets require plenum removal (plugs is not absolutely necessary for some). I also recommend a new intake plenum gasket if doing spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium: SK20R11
Denso Iridium: Power IK20
Denso Iridium TT: 4702
NGK Laser Iridium: IFR6A11/IFR6T11 (same plug just the "A" plug is dealer only)
NGK Iridium IX: BKR6EIX-11
Intake Plenum Gasket: 17176-62030

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife or the Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle fluids. I have also used Castrol Import Transmax, or Toyota Type T-IV with great results. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like Fram Ultra XG3600 and Purolator PureOne PL20195 for their price, construction, higher capacity, and leading filtering ability as an oil filter and only Denso engine Air filters. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil. I recommend going with the larger V6/V8 Toyota filters for their higher capacity.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-0H010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a felt media type filter element that is known to clog and cause severe problems on poorly maintained transmissions. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve and replacement of the grommet which is likely way past it's prime (2002 V6 models).

2002 Non VVT-i V6

PCV Valve: 12204-20020
Grommet: 90480-18001
Hose (if damaged): 12261-20011

2003-2006 VVT-i 1MZFE/3MZFE

PCV Valve: 12204-20060
Hose (if damaged): 12261-20091


Gen 6/Solara 2AZFE/2AZFXE

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: I like the Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 lines of oils. Others like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc for synthetic oil.. A 5 quart jug will be enough for I4 since they take a little more than 4 quarts.

Water pump: If showing sign of leaking or weeping replace it. If not maybe consider changing anyway or closely monitor. These were a big problem in the 2007 and 2008 models especially.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Denso Iridium are the OEM plugs. Denso or NGK are the only plugs I would consider, most will agree.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium: SK20R11
Denso Iridium: Power IK20
Denso Iridium TT: 4702
NGK Laser Iridium: IFR6A11/IFR6T11 (same plug just the "A" plug is dealer only)
NGK Iridium IX: BKR6EIX-11

Automatic Transmission fluid: These transmissions use WS. For fluid I highly recommend Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc. I drain and fill every 30K after an initial flush. The Maxlife is a WS compatible synthetic and shows much more stable and better UOA (used oil analysis) than the WS. There are other WS compatible fluids available that I have not yet experienced, but I can only imagine they work well in these transmissions. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Manual Transmission oil: If going manual transmission I like Redline MT90 for fluid. Others also like Amsoil MTG, Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90, and Royal Purple Synthetic Gear Oil. 2.5 quarts is needed.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like Fram Ultra XG3600 and Purolator PureOne PL20195 for their price, construction, higher capacity, and leading filtering ability as an oil filter and only Denso engine Air filters. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil. I recommend going with the larger V6/V8 Toyota filters for their higher capacity.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso for it's 3 layer filtering.

2AZFE - 17801-0H050
2AZFXE Hybrid - 17801-0H010

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a felt media type filter element that is known to clog and cause severe problems on poorly maintained transmissions. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 3 years or so as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price and do a full flush with my vacuum bleeder.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

Part Numbers:

PCV Valve - 12204-28030
PCV Hose (if damaged) - 12262-0H010

Gen 6.5 2ARFE

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: I like the Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 lines of oils. Others like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc for synthetic oil.. A 5 quart jug will be enough for I4 since they take a little more than 4 quarts.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Denso Iridium are the OEM plugs. Denso or NGK are the only plugs I would consider, most will agree.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium: SK16HR11
Denso Iridium: Power IKH16
Denso Iridium TT: 4703
NGK Laser Iridium: ILFR5T11
NGK Iridium IX: LFR5AIX11

Automatic Transmission fluid: These transmissions use WS. For fluid I highly recommend Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc. The Maxlife is a WS compatible synthetic and shows much more stable and better UOA (used oil analysis) than the WS. There are other WS compatible fluids available that I have not yet experienced, but I can only imagine they work well in these transmissions. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995. These transmission are "sealed" and the fluid can only be changed through a flush style procedure.

Manual Transmission oil: If going manual transmission I like Redline MT90 for fluid. Others also like Amsoil MTG, Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W90, and Royal purple synthetic gear oil. 2.5 quarts is needed.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like the OEM Denso 04152-YZZA1 cartridge filter for these engines. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso for it's 3 layer filtering.

2ARFE - 17801-0H050
2AZFXE Hybrid - 17801-0H010

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a felt media type filter element that is known to clog and cause severe problems on poorly maintained transmissions. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 3 years or so as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price and do a full flush with my vacuum bleeder.

PCV Valve: The PCV valve is located on a ventilation block bolted onto the back of the engine versus the valve cover. The PCV valve is replaceable though, but requires intake manifold removal. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve if you do this job and would recommend it after 100K miles.

Part Number:

12204-36020


Gen 6/6.5 2GRFE

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: I like the Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 lines of oils. Others like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc for synthetic oil.. A 5 quart jug will be enough for I4 since they take a little more than 4 quarts.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Denso Iridium are the OEM plugs. Denso or NGK are the only plugs I would consider, most will agree. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs as the gaskets require plenum removal (plugs is not absolutely necessary for some). I also recommend new intake plenum gaskets if doing spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium: FK20HR11
Denso Iridium TT: 4704
NGK Laser Iridium: DILFR6D11
NGK Iridium IX: LFR6AIX11
Plenum gaskets: 17176-0P020 x 3

Automatic Transmission fluid: These transmissions use WS. For fluid I highly recommend Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc. The Maxlife is a WS compatible synthetic and shows much more stable and better UOA (used oil analysis) than the WS. There are other WS compatible fluids available that I have not yet experienced, but I can only imagine they work well in these transmissions. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995. These transmission are "sealed" and the fluid can only be changed through a flush style procedure.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like the OEM Denso 04152-YZZA1 cartridge filter for these engines. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso for it's 3 layer filtering.

Part number - 17801-AD010

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a felt media type filter element that is known to clog and cause severe problems on poorly maintained transmissions. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 3 years or so as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price and do a full flush with my vacuum bleeder.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

PCV Valve - 12204-31120
PCV Hose (if damaged) - 12261-0P030

Don't forget to check replace things like drive belt, oil leaks, wiper blades, struts (ride quality), tires, brake pads, etc.

Model Specific Problems:

Gen 5/5.5 Camry and 2004-2006 Solara I4:


1. Stripped head bolts - There are many listed causes, but basically after an overheat events, the rear 3 head bolts strip the threads out of the block and simulate a blown head gasket from loss of clamping force on the rear of the cylinder head. Repair requires a tear down and installation of a Huhn Solutions or Time-Sert thread repair kit, new head bolts, and a new head gasket set installation.

2. Rough idle - Generally caused by a dirty throttle body and/or other issues from normal 4 cylinder engine vibrations. Not much can be done for the mild cases.

3. A/C relay failure - The original A/C compressor clutch relay was a defective design and can fail after around 8-10 years. This results in the A/C not working and generally a flashing green A/C light. Replacing the relay with a working will correct the problem.

4. Water pump leaks - Common on all 2AZFE engines until around 2008. Aisin went through several pump revisions before finally coming out with an updated pump that doesn't seem to leak often.

5. Weak or spongy brakes - Common complaint with no real remedy. A swap from rubber to stainless lines, good adjustment of the rear drums (non XLE or SE models), and good maintenance of the brake fluid can help.

6. Valve cover gasket leaks - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gasket will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 11 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult.

7. Oil pan leaks - Commonly misdiagnosed. This is more often than not a product of poor cleaning of the area surrounding the oil filter after an oil change, mimicking a leak at the oil pan.

Gen 5/5.5 Camry and Gen 2 Solara V6:

1. Valve cover gasket leaks - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gasket will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 11 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult.

2. Engine sludge - Some early non VVT-i 1MZFE engines run a small risk of sludge. This appears to have mostly been caused by a triple threat of a PCV valve design defect, 7500 mile oil change interval, and cheap bulk oil use. Doing any one of using good oil, changing oil at reasonable intervals, and changing the PCV valve to the updated design will likely correct the issue altogether.

3. Weak or spongy brakes - Common complaint with no real remedy. A swap from rubber to stainless lines and good maintenance of the brake fluid can help.

4. Belt noise - The tensioner design is not one of the constant adjusted tension type. As such, as the belts get older and stretch, belt noise is common. Normally, adjusting the belt tension will correct the issue, but at times replacement of the belts may be necessary.

5. A/C relay failure - The original A/C compressor clutch relay was a defective design and can fail after around 8-10 years. This results in the A/C not working and generally a flashing green A/C light. Replacing the relay with a working will correct the problem.

6. Oil pan leaks - Commonly misdiagnosed. This is more often than not a product of poor cleaning of the area surrounding the oil filter after an oil change, mimicking a leak at the oil pan.

Gen 6 Camry and 2007-2008 Solara 2AZFE/2AZFXE:

1. Oil consumption - Caused by a design defect in the piston and ring combination. The repair requires a tear down of the engine and replacement of the pistons and rings with updated parts. As of this writing, Toyota is conducting free repairs if the vehicle fails an oil consumption test of 1 quart used within 1200 miles.

2. Rough idle - Generally caused by a dirty throttle body and/or other issues from normal 4 cylinder engine vibrations. Not much can be done for the mild cases.

3. Water pump leaks - Common on all 2AZFE engines until around 2008. Aisin went through several pump revisions before finally coming out with an updated pump that doesn't seem to leak often.

4. Vent visor failures - Common on many Toyota models from around 2007-2010. The visor design is prone to failure. Toyota replaced them for free during a certain period and mileage by providing a warranty extension. The repair is to replace the visors for the updated parts.

5. Dashboard melting - Affects millions of Toyota models from around 2005-2010. The dashboard material is prone to overheating and melts or cracks results in glare, tackiness, or large cracks in the dash. As of this writing, Toyota is replacing affected dashboards free of charge.

6. Rear strut clunk - Caused by wearing of the soft strips on top of the strut mount. The fix is to remove the strut and add a piece of felt or other material to alleviate eliminate the noise. I did this repair for a total cost of 46 cents.

7. Brake pulsation - There were two TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for brake pulsation.. The issue was that the pads were of a soft composition. This results in premature wear or pulsation. The first TSB called for replacing the rear pads (2007-2008 models) and the second called for replacing front pads, machining front rotors, and verifying the updated pad composition material was in the rear (likely to check for the updated pads in the 1st TSB; 2007-2010 models). The repair is to replace with updated brakes or high quality aftermarket brake parts.

8. Premature strut failure - Affects mostly 2007-2009 models. Basically the struts would wear out earlier than expected. Basically a non issue at this point as most struts are likely blown to some degree.

Gen 6.5 Camry 2ARFE:

1. Transmission gear hunting - The newer 6 speed transmission programming is designed for maximum fuel efficiency. As such is has a tendency to shift up and down too early, especially at low cruising speeds in an attempt to get to the most fuel efficient gear. I have seen good results after a swap to Maxlife

2. Brake pulsation - There were two TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for brake pulsation.. The issue was that the pads were of a soft composition. This results in premature wear or pulsation. The first TSB called for replacing the rear pads (2007-2008 models) and the second called for replacing front pads, machining front rotors, and verifying the updated pad composition material was in the rear (likely to check for the updated pads in the 1st TSB; 2007-2010 models). The repair is to replace with updated brakes or high quality aftermarket brake parts

Gen 6/6.5 Camry 2GRFE:

1. Transmission flare - Affects 2007 models. Toyota issued a programming update to correct the issue, but there is speculation that the problem is caused by incorrectly filled transmissions at the factory. Regardless, with good fluid maintenance and a programming update, the problem appears to get fixed.

2. Coil eating - Affects 2007 and early 2008 V6 models. Basically some early 2GRFE engines will randomly eat one or all of the original ignition coils. Toyota has an updated coil part number that fixes it. Some people have replaced one or two and then had more go out afterwards. The issue is random and doesn't appear to affect all models.

3. VVT-i Oil Line ruptures and/or leaks - Affects 2007-2009 V6 models. Basically the rubber oil line Toyota used technically met the specs for the job, but in reality wasn't up to the task. The line leaks and/or bursts spewing oil all over the engine bay. Toyota issued a recall to replace the hose with an updated hose that is better suited for the task. After 2009, all V6 engines use an all metal VVT-i oil line. It is possible to swap the early models to the all metal line by purchasing the new line, gaskets, and replacing the assembly.

4. Vent visor failures - Common on many Toyota models from around 2007-2010. The visor design is prone to failure. Toyota replaced them for free during a certain period and mileage by providing a warranty extension. The repair is to replace the visors for the updated parts.

5. Dashboard melting - Affects millions of Toyota models from around 2005-2010. The dashboard material is prone to overheating and melts or cracks results in glare, tackiness, or large cracks in the dash. As of this writing, Toyota is replacing affected dashboards free of charge.

6. Rear strut clunk - Caused by wearing of the soft strips on top of the strut mount. The fix is to remove the strut and add a piece of felt or other material to alleviate eliminate the noise. I did this repair for a total cost of 46 cents.

7. Brake pulsation - There were two TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for brake pulsation.. The issue was that the pads were of a soft composition. This results in premature wear or pulsation. The first TSB called for replacing the rear pads (2007-2008 models) and the second called for replacing front pads, machining front rotors, and verifying the updated pad composition material was in the rear (likely to check for the updated pads in the 1st TSB; 2007-2010 models). The repair is to replace with updated brakes or high quality aftermarket brake parts.

8. Premature strut failure - Affects 2007-2009 models. Basically the struts would wear out earlier than expected. Basically a non issue at this point as most struts are likely blown to some degree.

9. VVT-I Gear Tick and/or CEL - This extremely rare but extremely expensive problem affects early 2GRFE engines. Basically, for some unknown reason, the VVT-i actuator bolts loosen causing a ticking noise. The repair requires replacing the actuator, camshaft, and camshaft housing that is affected. There are a possible 4 affected banks (2 intake and 2 exhaust). It is likely less expensive to just swap the entire engine if this issue occurs. I will reiterate that the issue is EXTREMELY rare and affects early 2GRFE engines (2007-2009 models). Many owners have put hundreds of thousands of miles without issues. I have personally only seen the issue once before and only once before.

Informational Threads to help you out:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...nted-know.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...fo-sticky.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...um-sticky.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ead-bolts.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...on-thread.html


DIY's to help you out:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...uid-flush.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-job-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ment-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-5-5-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ment-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...5-gen-6-a.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...sh-w-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-diy-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ng-w-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...eplacment.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-gen5.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...hange-fyi.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...gs-2az-fe.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...nt-w-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ap-w-pics.html

Note: The following DIY's are for a Gen 4 Camry. They are nearly identical for Gen 5/5.5 with the timing belt tensioner being the main difference. Everything else is pretty much identical. I will add some differences in seal replacement and would instead use a seal puller and installer. Also I use a different camshaft tool. Follow the link below. Keep in mind the 3MZFE is an interference engine.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ml#post4859385

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ls-part-i.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...s-part-ii.html


Note: The following DIY is for a 9th Gen Corolla but is basically identical for the Gen 5-6 Camry.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/13...ange-gen9.html
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Last edited by hardtopte72; 06-08-2017 at 05:34 AM. Reason: Update, Cleanup, Error Corrections
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-31-2014, 06:06 PM
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Wow...

Wish you would have wrote this a month ago when I started into doing some necessary maintenance lol...

Big thanks!!!
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-01-2014, 12:01 PM
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Thanks a lot man.
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FS:Camry TRD BBK calipers. Ultra Racing front strut tower. Two Enkei Rpf1 17x7.5
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-01-2014, 12:24 PM
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Nice job bro I just purchased the oem PCV off of ebay. My car has 96k on it.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-02-2014, 09:19 PM
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Absolutely incredible write up. Thanks for putting it all together in one place.

One thing I might add is the Monroe QuickStrut p/n for each corner. Just did my rears and a major improvement. Front QS units arrived the other day and will install when I receive control arms, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. That way only 1 alignment needed.

Again, thank you.

Was this post helpful? Please click the "THANKS" button.

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Hello everyone. The response below is something I made to a guy in the Matrix forum when he asked about some services he was recommended. This list seems to be mostly in line with new purchase recommendations and contains a crap load of info to turn to novice into a DIY'er.

Here is my post below mildly edited to remove situation specific stuff:

If you bought some basic hand tools and have a little space ALL of that stuff can be done yourself and save hundreds of dollars. A question first:

1. Can you read basic instructions or get some basic help?

Here is the breakdown for what those jobs would cost for the DIY. The OP in this thread was quoted over $1250 for this work. My estimates got it from anywhere around $200 - $400 depending on if just the OP's recommendations (stuff before my recommendations) or everything is done.

Brake Fluid Flush - $5 - $10 in fluid and maybe 5-10 more for tools and equipment

DIY here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...uid-flush.html

Coolant System Flush - $15 - $30 for 1-2 gallons of coolant and an additional 5-10 for a funnel (30-40 for a Lisle spill free funnel that is not necessary but highly valuable in using to fill the radiator. You can use a regular funnel to fill as well). I don't flush cooling systems but rather drain and fill them. Draining and filling is as easy as it sounds. Simply drain the radiator from its drain, close the drain, and refill the radiator. Alternately you can flush the entire system.

DIYs here:

Drain and Fill:

1. Open the radiator drain and drain the contents of the radiator. Close drain when finished.
2. Remove the reservoir bottle and drain it. Reinstall when finished.
3. Remove radiator cap, add Zerex Asian, and fill radiator (using a Lisle spill free funnel is highly recommended). This usually takes around 1.25 gallons.
4. Start engine and set temp control to max heat and blower fan speed to high. Top off reservoir.
5. Bleed system adding coolant as necessary. The system is bled when no bubbles are seen in the funnel AND the vent heat is VERY HOT.
6. Remove funnel, reinstall radiator cap, and top off coolant.
7. Go for a long drive of at least 20 minutes to bring the car up to operating temp and bleed any additional air.
8. Park car and top off reservoir if necessary over the next few days.

Flush:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-gen5.html

Coolant I prefer is here: http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-675130-Vehicle-Anitfreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QO022/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Note: It is also available at Napa, Oreilly Auto, or you can use OEM Toyota Super Long Life (since it's 50/50 already) as an option as well. If you are ok to mix with distilled water yourself Toyota Long Life is also acceptable.

Spill free funnel is here: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0

Fuel System Service - $10 - $40 depending on product choice. You can either go all out and do the OEM Toyota EFI service found below or simply use any highly recommended fuel system cleaning product that you pour in tank (mainly Chevron Techron Concentrate (not other Chevron Techron), Gumout Regane (not other Gumout), BG44K, or Amsoil Fuel Cleaner (that feature PEA cleaner).

DIY here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...it-w-pics.html

If you aren't comfortable working on cars I suggest using the above mentioned products available at Walmart or in auto parts stores:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...vron_7080568-p

http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-BG44K/dp/B00ER8HDRE
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...mout_7630016-p

Transmission Fluid Flush - If you just do a flush of fluid then around $70 - $90 (12 quarts and it's less if you do less quarts) for fluid and the cost of a pair of hose and needle nose pliers. If doing a flush and filter replacement add around $15 - $25 for the filter.

DIYs here:

Flush:

U241E, U140E, U250E, U151E:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html

Note: If just doing a drain and fill only pay attention to steps 1-2, 4, 6, and 12-15.

U660E or U760E:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...-diy-pics.html

Flush and Filter:

U241E, U140E, U250E, U151E:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...sh-w-pics.html

Make sure you use a fluid compatible with your transmission (Maxlife works on all applications)

Power Steering Fluid Flush - Around $10 - $20. All you need is pliers, a cheap ear plug, turkey baster, hose, a jug, and fluid.

DIY here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/13...ange-gen9.html

Note: DIY is for 9th Gen Corolla but is exactly the same for Camry.

Any Dexron III Compatible automatic transmission fluid will work for this flush. I personally use Maxlife, Castrol Import TransMax, or Castrol DexMerc. I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF but it is way expensive for a fluid that doesn't do anything amazing. A Camry will only require 1 quart to do a full flush.

Here is some stuff I will also add myself:

PCV Valve replacement - $4 - $10. Super important and easy part to change.

DIY here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ment-pics.html

MAF sensor cleaning - $4 - $8. Really easy to do and important for good maintenance.

DIY here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...st4466329.html

Spark plugs - Due at 120K miles. Cost around $35 - $45 bucks depending on where you got them from. Use only NGK or Denso Iridium plugs.

2AZFE DIY here:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...gs-2az-fe.html

NGK:
120K Laser Iridium
2AZFE/2AZFXE/1MZFE/3MZFE: PN: IFR6T11. SN: 4589
2ARFE: PN: ILFR5T11. SN: 96779
2GRFE: PN: DILFR6D11 SN: 6176

60K Iridium IX
2AZFE/2AZFXE/1MZFE/3MZFE: PN: BKR6EIX-11 SN: 3764
2ARFE: PN: LFR5AIX11. SN: 4469
2GRFE: PN: LFR6AIX11 SN: 6619

Denso:
120K Iridium Long Life
2AZFE/2AZFXE/1MZFE/3MZFE: PN: SK20R11. SN: 3297
2ARFE: PN: SK16HR11. SN: 3417
2GRFE: PN: FK20HR11 SN: 3426

60K Iridium Power
2AZFE/2AZFXE/1MZFE/3MZFE: PN: IK20. SN: 5304
2ARFE: PN: IKH16. SN: 5343

Oil Change - If you really want to be sure you have a good quality oil running through the engine, change it yourself. For $35 - $40 you can have an ultra high quality synthetic and high quality oil filter in your engine.

DIYs here:

2AZFE:

http://rav4world.com/pdf/2006/Oil_Filter_I4.pdf

Note: You do not need to remove any covers like the PDF states. Also keep in mind oil levels are different depending on oil filter used.

Caution: Check the dipstick for a proper oil fill amount. Do not add only what you drained.

2GRFE:

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4...-pictures.html

Caution: Check the dipstick for a proper oil fill amount. Do not add only what you drained.

For oil I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and a Purolator PureOne oil filter. Walmart carries the oil for around $25 bucks normally in a 5 quart jug and the filter can be had for around $6 - $8 on Amazon or Advance Auto.

Here are some really good info sticky that will help you with most any problem you may have:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...fo-sticky.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...um-sticky.html

Additionally if you use Amazon, eBay, Rockauto, and coupon codes like a good online shopper you can save even more money (I use Advance Auto 30% coupon code TRT30 to buy my spark plugs for around $25 - $28.

At most you will need:

1. Cheap socket and ratchet set -
2. Waste fluid container or two
3; Cheap pliers set (w/hose removal pliers)
4. Cheap screwdriver set
5. Extensions
6. Minor small pieces of supplies here and there


All of that above shouldn't even cost you $100 bucks if you were to go to somewhere like Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/storelocator/location/map

Socket set w/extensions, ratchet, and adapters (Below set includes numbers most everything you need for the jobs above. You can pretty much do everything except the radiator and flush and power steering flush with this set) - $39.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/35-piec...set-67927.html

Hose pliers for transmission and power steering hoses - $14.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...ers-37909.html

Pliers for clamps and stuff - $9.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-69355.html

Screwdrivers - $4.99 or $12.99 depending on how many you need:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-68868.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/22-piec...set-95114.html

Drain pan - $9.99:
http://www.harborfreight.com/waste-o...ner-97608.html
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1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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post #7 of 13 Old 06-23-2014, 10:38 AM
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This is just awesome. I used to keep track of stuff I look up or work on so that I could find it the next time for the other toyota in the family. Very comprehensive.

2002 Avalon XL 3.0L mcx20L 1MZFE
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2000 Corolla CE1 4 Cyl 1.8L EFI ATM 1ZZFE ZZE110L-DEPDKA SED 4FC
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Wow, thank you for your hard work and experience.
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-16-2015, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peter2016 View Post
Wow, thank you for your hard work and experience.
Glad to help.

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1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-10-2017, 08:38 PM
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How often do you recommend to change spark plugs? What are the difference between all the Denso spark plugs? I looked at their website and there wasn't too much information on each of the different spark plug that can help me get a better understanding.
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-10-2017, 08:52 PM
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if you have an owner's manual in your glovebox, it's a great source of this information, specifically for your car. if you don't have one, it's one of the 4 items i always recommend any DIY'er buy/read/and understand how to use in order to be successful, along with a digital multimeter, a haynes or fsm and an elm327 bluetooth reader paired with your android phone/tablet/HU.
tony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyCar_SE View Post
How often do you recommend to change spark plugs? What are the difference between all the Denso spark plugs? I looked at their website and there wasn't too much information on each of the different spark plug that can help me get a better understanding.
Read this thread:

Official 5th and 6th Gen Camry and 2nd Gen Solara Maintenance Thread

My Toyota List:

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post #13 of 13 Old 05-27-2017, 12:44 AM
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Great Summary

Super helpful. Thanks much. Exactly what I needed as I begin the process of buying a second used Camry.
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