Camry HybridDiscussion area for the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving Americas favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Been thinkin' 'bout this for some time. Is there a 'quick' and 'easy' GUIDE for newbies, wanna-be newbies (folks waitin' on their TCHs), and more seasoned pros, to extracting the best FE out of our TCHs? Well, I have read, and pondered and driven the car for over 5000 km so far (not as far as the REAL seasoned pros), and I have hopefully come up with a summation of what I've found (and 'stolen' from others from various websites, forums, etc.). This thread could be a good starting point for a compendium of 'tricks' for new TCH owners gettin' the best out of their vehicle...
In terms of altitude and the dry air - we're at over 1300m above sea level here in the foothills of the Can. Rockies - both have had a positive effect on L/km - mpg (last tank was 4.9L/100km - which is close to 50mpg, I believe). I concur with everyone who has written that travelling DISTANCE and warm-up play a major role in improving your FE [at least 4 -5 km in warm weather (well, in Ont. you could probably warm up in 2-3km), and considerably more when the weather turns hostile - see the thread concerning the 4 stages of warm-up up to 'full' hybrid - greenhybrid and here?].
That being said, I think there are a few things that I have gleaned from this site, as well as my own observations which may improve FE for the average Joe:
Coast - coast, coast, coast...
Anticipate - then you may coast...
Cruise - when the going is flat, and you have to drive above 65km/hr (42 miles per hour) then let the computer figure out the delicate balance between the ICE, MG1, and MG2...you paid + for it after all...
Accelerate - moderately or briskly to just above your cruising speed - then let off the gas, and lock into your cruising speed (always disengage the cruise on an steeper uphill as the increased rpms do hinder FE, I've found) - you will see that the 'brisker' the acceleration up to speed will yield a faster decline in L/100km or an increase in mpg.
F(E)ather - the gas, when possible (the threads concerning 'Heretical Mode", etc. entice the driver to maximize the capabilities of the TCH). I believe that using EV(65km/hr or lower) and then coasting to regenerate the battery, when possible, has been the sole factor in my own continually improving FE...
CACAF(E)...I'm sure there are more tricks out there - WHAT ARE YOURS???Like having great WEATHER - which has been appreciable out here. The strategies above, coupled with good weather, have yielded 6 tanks of gas between 42-50 mpg...Hope some of this helps...
I'm a newbie - so, 'seasoned professionals' be gentle with your criticisms...
I've found I can get into Level4 sooner. As soon s the Temp is at operating (about half way up) I stop and stay stopped for 7-10 seconds. The engine turns off and from then on I can get into EV mode just by lifting my foot off the throttle. If the engine turns off right away when you stop, it is still not up to operating temperature.
Right now, in the summer it takes less than 1km/.6mi for the car to get up to temp
Great Post for a "Newbie". Glad to read that you have spent the time reading and driving wrt getting the most MPG you can. I'll start using the "stop/set EV mode for 7-10 sec's" concept after warming up to the one tick under halfway on temp gauge and see if I gain. ATPIT my warnups usually take 6 steps on the NAVI Consumption Screen before I'm cruising above the 40 mpg range. I wasn't checking the temp gauge relative to that time but now I will ...
Do you run E10 gasoline in Canada ? Here in the States it is very hard to find gasoline that is not E10. I lost at least 10% MPG when E10 became mandatory here in Florida...
I just switched to Amsoil Synthetic Oil and I'm see if this helps mileage some...
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2009 BRM/Bisque TCH : UT w/Nav,LA,SR,CQ with PV50 and RX60. CoverCraft Evolution and UVS100; FormulaOne Pinnacle 35/15/15 Tint; LLumar Paint Protection; Vinguard; Mudguards; Silverstar Ultra 9005 & Silverstar 3457A. AMSOIL SS 0w-20 w/ EaO10 ; Shell V-POWER 93
Do you run E10 gasoline in Canada ? Here in the States it is very hard to find gasoline that is not E10. I lost at least 10% MPG when E10 became mandatory here in Florida...
Canada is a big place, and like the States each province has its own rules and incentives.
In my neck of the hinterland we've had 1 supplier selling E10 for 20+ years! But I keep hearing rumors that we will be forced into Exx (5-15% being talked about) at ALL stations.
Here it is...(stolen, gracefully, from greenhybrid, for those who want to know without goin' there...this is great stuff!!! ThankX to cdn_tch!!! & 'haroldo' (greenhybrid's TCH guru)
Toyota Camry Hybrid The best-selling car in America.
Re: Revised FAQ What are the definitions of some of the acronyms that appear at this site?
<LI itxtvisited="1">ICE is Internal Combustion Engine <LI itxtvisited="1">DINO (or dino) oil is non-synthetic oil, the stuff that came from dinosaurs (get it? ) <LI itxtvisited="1">FE is Fuel Economy <LI itxtvisited="1">ECO is the ECO Switch (hidden to the left of the driver's left knee) that sets the Air Conditioning system to economy mode. <LI itxtvisited="1">SOC is State of Charge <LI itxtvisited="1">MFD is Multi Function Display (it's found inside your speedometer or on your NAV system) <LI itxtvisited="1">NAV is Navigation System <LI itxtvisited="1">HSD is Hybrid Synergy Drive (Toyota's name for the hybrid system) <LI itxtvisited="1">TCH is Toyota Camry Hybrid <LI itxtvisited="1">ECU is the Engine Control Unit. This is the computer "brain" for the entire Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive system (HSD) and controls all of the energy utilization and recovery. <LI itxtvisited="1">MG1 is the smaller motor generator mechanically connected to the Power Split Device (PSD) sun gear. It is utilized by the Engine Control Unit to provide what is the equivalent of a "gear ratio" for the Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive system (HSD). <LI itxtvisited="1">MG2 is the larger motor generator mechanically connected to the driven axle (axles in the Hylander AWD) and the Power Split Device (PSD) ring gear. It is utilized by the Engine Control Unit for electrically driving the vehicle, assisted electric power for the ICE when required and for recovery of excess energy when coasting and braking, sometime called regenerative energy or simply regen.
PSD is the power split device -- it replaces the transmission in the Toyota Hybrid Synergy Drive system (HSD). Look here to see how it works.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Factors not related to the way the driver operates the vehicle. Your mileage will increase...
<LI itxtvisited="1">...after your first oil change. <LI itxtvisited="1">...when the weather is warm. In cold weather the ICE needs to run to warm up. <LI itxtvisited="1">...if you drive on flat roads <LI itxtvisited="1">...when the air conditioner or heater is set to off <LI itxtvisited="1">...if you increase tire pressure. The trade off is a noisier and possible more uncomfortable drive. Always stay within the posted recommended pressure range set by the manufacturer. See this survey to see how other drivers set their pressure. <LI itxtvisited="1">...if you use top tier gas
<LI itxtvisited="1">Factors related to the way the driver operates the vehicle.
<LI itxtvisited="1">After the engine warms up, come to a complete stop for a few seconds and see if the engine turns off after 4-5 seconds (not after one second). When it does this you are now in EV mode. The car will drive 'in the blue', on battery power, up to 40 miles per hour. Please see how-come-i-cant-go-into-ev-mode-sometimes (the third post) for an explanation. <LI itxtvisited="1">Combine trips and make your lengthiest trip the first leg of your trip. This will give the car a chance to warm up. <LI itxtvisited="1">Don't store heavy items in the trunk or travel with passengers. Three extra adults in the car could add between 400 and 600 pounds. <LI itxtvisited="1">Don't warm up the car before driving. Power it on and when you see READY, put it in gear and go. This is not practical if you live in a cold climate. <LI itxtvisited="1">Try and drive at a constant speed. Frequent stops and starts hurt mileage. <LI itxtvisited="1">Pulse and Glide Accelerate to a nice speed, say 65 miles per hour and then let the car glide down to 55 MPH (traffic permitting) and then start the process up again <LI itxtvisited="1">Anticipate traffic light changes and glide up to the light, rather than using the gas and braking <LI itxtvisited="1">Use cruise control when on flat roads. <LI itxtvisited="1">Avoid jack rabbit starts <LI itxtvisited="1">Avoid bumper to bumper traffic, if possible
Monitor the battery's charge level and avoid letting the it run low when in traffic (the ICE will turn on at slow speeds to help regenerate the battery). Try and leave a gap between you and the car in front of you and then pulse and glide to try and regenerate the battery.
There are many other driving techniques that people use to increase their mileage. There are quite a few posts and threads that discuss this topic. Some of the techniques you will see could potentially put the driver, passengers and others at risk. Please use common sense and observe local traffic laws as well as proper driving etiquette when considering whether some of these tactics are appropriate for you. The EMT in the ambulance will not ask you what your mileage was before the accident. Always drive safely!
<LI itxtvisited="1">Yes, the small 12 volt battery (located in the trunk) can. <LI itxtvisited="1">The hybrid battery can only be jumped by the dealer. <LI itxtvisited="1">Before attempting to jump the battery, please read the manual to make sure you know what you are doing.
You should NOT try and jump start another car.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Are you sure I can't jump another car? I asked the dealer about this prior to buying the car, and they said it would be okay.
A.The 12-volt battery in the TCH is an AGM (Absorptive Glass Mat) type. These batteries are designed to survive repeated deep discharge/recharge cycles without failure, but cannot take rapid charge or discharge without potential damage (temperature dependent). The TCH's ECU circuitry limits the charge/discharge rates. Jump starting another vehicle using the TCH's 12-V battery is likely to reduce its service life appreciably due to the very high cranking current that is drawn from it in such an operation. (It's also a rather expensive battery to replace! It incorporates both a temperature sensor and a gas venting valve and gas discharge attachment.)
<LI itxtvisited="1">Does the 12V power outlet plugs inside the car stay on when the car is powered off?
No, these are disabled when the car's power is off.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Can I change the settings for the headlight auto off timer?
No, you can't, but the dealer can. For a list of the options that the dealer can modify, please see the PDF attached to this link.
<LI itxtvisited="1">Do the rear personal reading lights (only available in cars with the moon roof) turn off after a period of time?
Even though the interior lights go off after a few seconds, the rear personal reading lights do not turn off when you power off the car. Please make sure these lights are turned off as they can drain your battery.
<LI itxtvisited="1">What is the maximum speed I can achieve on battery only?
When the engine is warmed up you should be able to get up to 40 miles per hour. This will vary due to a number of conditions. Eventually, the battery charge will drop and the ICE will turn on to help regenerate power.
What happens if I run out of gas?
When your gas gauge reaches E and your MFD indicate 0 miles left on the tank, you have approximately 3 gallons of gas left in the tank. You should try and refill your tank as soon as possible. There are no awards given for the most mileage driven per tank, similarly, it's not fun standing on the side of the road hoping someone will give you a ride to the nearest gas station.
However, in the unlikely situation that you forgot to refill your tank, you failed to notice the dashboard warning light and the car ran out of fuel, your car will be able to drive approximately one or two miles (depending on driving habits, conditions, and battery state) before the main hybrid (traction) battery runs out of power. If you are unable to make it to a gas station before the hybrid battery dies, your car will be stranded and you will need to contact the Toyota dealership to have the battery charged.
Word to the wise...when the warning light tells you you need fuel, get it.
Why do my brakes shudder during the first few stops?
Due to the nature of a hybrid vehicle, there are points in time when you may be applying the brakes without actually using the brake pads. This is called regenerative braking; which uses the HSD to slow the vehicle. Since the brake pads are not used as often as in a non-hybrid vehicle, moisture can build up on the pads and rotors. If moisture is present, the pads may "slip" causing your brakes to shudder while applying them. This will happen until the moisture is burned off. If this happens frequently, during more than the first few stops, you should consider contacting your service center.
Last edited by haroldo : 03-06-2008 at 11:43 AM.
Re: Revised FAQ Are there any tax incentives available for the purchase of a TCH?
<LI itxtvisited="1">The US Federal tax credit was based upon the number of units sold by the manufacturer and due to Toyota's popularity, the credit ended (numerous web citations available). Individual states may have tax credit or other incentives available (such as allowing you to drive in HOV lanes with only one occupant or parking garage discounts). <LI itxtvisited="1">Canada offers currently a $1500 tax rebate on the TCH (2007 and 2008 model years). Please see this page <LI itxtvisited="1">The province of Ontario offers an additional $2000 rebate. Please see this page
There might be credits for the other provinces, we are not sure.
Re: Revised FAQ Where can I learn more about the car and hybrid driving techniques?
<LI itxtvisited="1">How accurate are the dashboard calculations?
<LI itxtvisited="1">Typically the MPG displayed is 1-1.5 MPG high. The fuel usage is an approximation, so it would be difficult to calculate an accurate MPG.
The speedometer is approximately 3 miles per hour high at 60 miles per hour (see this post for details)
<LI itxtvisited="1">What mileage are other drivers getting?
This page lists the various users mileage. Please don't expect to be able to achieve the mileage that some users are posting. You may not be able to, nor want to, drive under the conditions that they did to achieve these results.
<LI itxtvisited="1">How do I interpret the graph on the ECO Drive Display (one of the screens inside the speedometer) and the blue rings that, at times, appear around the speedometer?
<LI itxtvisited="1">The ECO Drive chart shows the car's approximate average mpg since you last started the car (it resets every time you turn the car off). It is a stair step display and is updated every 10 seconds.
The rings may appear on the outside of the speedometer as your mpg improves. The gauges change luminosity and more rings are added at the same time as the ECO Drive stair step increases. The following are the levels of the stair steps and corresponding blue speedometer rings:
<LI itxtvisited="1">Level 0 -- Below 25 mpg -- Ring brightness off, no lines <LI itxtvisited="1">Level 1 -- Between 26 & 30 mpg -- Ring brightness is subtle with one thin blue line
Level 2 -- Between 31 & 35 mpg -- Ring brightness is medium intensity with thicker blue lines
Level 3 -- 36 mpg & above -- Ring brightness is full intensity with the thickest blue lines
When you turn off the the car, the ECO Drive display (MFD) retains the ECO display for 3 seconds. It will display "EXCELLENT" if your average was 36 MPG or more. Remember, these are approximations of your mileage.
The ECO display on the dash is not related to the ECO switch next to the tank refill switch referred to in this post.
<LI itxtvisited="1">How do I record my mileage at this web site?
Click the Manage Your Cars link on left side of this page and follow the instructions.
How do I create a dynamic link signature showing my calculated mileage?
FWIW and IMHO the MFD (Multi Function Display) is not a valid descriptor of the Display inside the Speedo. I call it the MID (Multi Information Display) as it cycles through different Information wrt the operation of the vehicle not the ability to change/show Functions on the Vehicle...
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2009 BRM/Bisque TCH : UT w/Nav,LA,SR,CQ with PV50 and RX60. CoverCraft Evolution and UVS100; FormulaOne Pinnacle 35/15/15 Tint; LLumar Paint Protection; Vinguard; Mudguards; Silverstar Ultra 9005 & Silverstar 3457A. AMSOIL SS 0w-20 w/ EaO10 ; Shell V-POWER 93
New findings - as a result of reading the 'Heretical Mode' threads (greenhybrid), I have noticed that, depending on the road grade, that the display (non-Nav - just below the speedometer) shows either a constant ICE symbol or a combination of ICE and battery with lower than normal fuel consumption- the consumption always reads about 2.5L/100km (I don't have ScanG or II).
I assume that this is 'Heretical Mode' - and I've attained this FE @ exactly 85km/hr on cruise (through Banff Nat'l Park, on a slight downhill grade towards Canmore, but then fairly level for most of the way) and at 89 km/hr on various roads...wondering if anyone out there has seen this low RPM/high load(?) event at other speeds and, perhaps, in differing road conditions...exact road speeds would be a good way to compare this remarkable 'heretical mode' and give us all an advantage to improving FE...
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