Tune up/maint questions

[Ken07TCH]

I dont suspect any issues with my TCH. However, are there any gotchas like sticking spark plugs that should be replaced early, bolts that back out, etc. Im looking for problems that I can head off before the fact.

I went and bought the transmission fluid from Toyota and had that replaced at about 38k. It was still red and no filter to change so easy enough.
What about replacement parts? Stay all Toyota with Plugs, filters, fluids? Do these engines seem to work better with certain brands of oil?

I notice the 2.4 is using about a quart of oil in 4k miles. Its been a while since I paid attention to a 4 banger but I seem to remember the 4 cyl used oil when we had Rabbits- circa 1976. I used 5w-20 Castrol for the last 2 changes. So, I will go ahead and change it then instead of waiting for 5k. Other than synthetic any suggestions? Im thinking of looking for Mystic oil. Last I looked at them they had a real stout add package.


I'm getting about 520 miles per 13 gallons, so the mileage seems fine. I have a 26 mile one way commute 5 days and run around on the weekend as needed. I'm really enjoying this car and passing the gas stations.

I don't much care for resell. I usually drive cars 10-15 years, with about 17-20k per year.

Any suggestions, are appreciated.

Oh yes, the manual is right here with me. I don't have it memorized but I have read it through.

Thanks

[Aptos Driver]

Originally Posted by Ken07TCH

I notice the 2.4 is using about a quart of oil in 4k miles. Its been a while since I paid attention to a 4 banger but I seem to remember the 4 cyl used oil when we had Rabbits- circa 1976.

It's been a while since I've driven a 4-cylinder car, but a quart used in 4K miles sounds like a bit much to me. The last "4-banger" I had was an '82 Volvo 240 wagon and I don't recall it going through oil that fast, but then I meticulously changed the oil myself every 3,000 miles. I still adhere to an oil change every 3K with my '07 6-cylinder RAV4 Limited, even though the manual calls for 5K intervals. As for VW Rabbits -- I had a carburated '75 and it was a total lemon. I think they switched to fuel injection in the '76 models.

[ukrkoz]

1. i was stupid enough to swap to 0W20, as "recommended for better mpg" and not only mpg dropped down right away, but yes, she does take some oil thereafter. not a qrt in 4K miles, but does take some. i'd say half of that. i have never ever seen a car that won't take some oil. some more, some less, they all do.
2. watch for water pump leaks after 50K miles. i just had mine done. btw, we have same year/color. mine has 52K on ticker.
3. no timing belt, it's chain, so it's forever. regular serpentine will need to be done. at around 100 000. i replaced my spark plugs at 50K, just for the heck of it. i immediately replaced air filter with K&N one the very moment i bought her. seller claimed 36 average, i got her up to 42.5
4. i think you rushed on transmission lubricant. too early. it's splash lubrication, very simple. but yes, folks had some crap in it after 50-60K miles. i plan on doing mine summer time.
otherwise, they do not really recommend any major service. if i were you, i'd get her in for full check up before 60K powertrain runs out.

[Aptos Driver]

Originally Posted by Ken07TCH

I'm getting about 520 miles per 13 gallons, so the mileage seems fine. I have a 26 mile one way commute 5 days and run around on the weekend as needed. I'm really enjoying this car and passing the gas stations.

I just did the math. You're getting about 40 mpg. Outstanding, I would say.

[Ken07TCH]

Good answers. Thank you all.

Ill start checking the water pump and keep a closer eye on the temp. I have a Scanguage II mounted on the steering column and watch the water temp which tops 195F.

That's interesting that the oil usage went up with synthetic.

Yes I love 40 mpg in this size car.

[ukrkoz]

1. mpg went down with 0w20; this is THE THINNEST synthetic oil available in stores, so no surprise it takes some. why mpg went down, i have no idea. does not make sense, but it was right after.
2. 26 miles one way commute? fwy or mixed? mine does 45 on fwy, but hit the city, and mpg drops right away. so much for "better mpg on city cycle". it is OBVIOUSLY just like any other car, fwy better than city.
3. i'll let her go another maybe 2 000 miles, and go back to 5w20. and will do CVT lubricant change either.
4. no, temperature never went up with my pump leaking. but you should watch for 2 things: coolant level dropping down in expansion canister and this:






red dry crust is evaporated coolant. when it goes, it drops down onto serpentine belt and that one spreads it all over the engine parts.

[cdn_tch]

Originally Posted by ukrkoz

1. mpg went down with 0w20; this is THE THINNEST synthetic oil available in stores, so no surprise it takes some. why mpg went down, i have no idea. does not make sense, but it was right after.

2. 26 miles one way commute? fwy or mixed? mine does 45 on fwy, but hit the city, and mpg drops right away. so much for "better mpg on city cycle". it is OBVIOUSLY just like any other car, fwy better than city.

1) MPG are a function of many variables, including outside temperature, If you changed to 0W20 in the fall, don't expect better mileage now than you had in the summer. (remember apples vs. apples)

2) the 'city cycle' is in an EPA lab. How, when and where you drive has a huge bearing on the MPGs you will get. I can get much better mileage in the city than on the highway, but the city mileage is more dependent on factors outside my control, like how much stop and go I have to do, how much time in gridlock I spend (while the ICE does shut off while stopped, it will run when the battery gets run down, then I'm standing still with the ICE running).

My best MPGs are hwy 47.3 over 700 miles, city 49.5 over 3 days and a half tank (then my wife drove...)