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3rd on my list after Connecting Rods and Forged pistons are the camshafts. I plan to buy new ones through the dealership (unless I find a cheaper place online) and get them hardwelded. What left me stuck was there are 2 camshafts, and intake camshaft and an exhaust camshaft. Now would I have to get the hardweld done to both camshafts, or only the intake one??
you DO NOT need both to be reprofiled, but if its going to be something overrly hi end then the exhasut side wont keep up if you do only the intake. its cheap anyway, why not do both?
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Well, it says 'price per set', but I really wasn't sure what it was referring to. In fact, I have no idea as to what they're doing to them (as you said reprofile) and they're doing hardwelding so on so forth.
I'm getting turbo parts together so I imagine since it says:
"Designed to increase mid and upper end power. Recommend to use with high compression pistons, programmable fuel injection and performance exhaust. Hardwelded to your stock cams. Price per set. Must check all clearances!"
it'll be good with the turbo. Check all clearances makes me worry though, why would it say that??
When they say check all clearance I would think they are talking about cam bearings and valve adjustment. You WERE going to replace the cam bearings right?
Gary
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Don't worry about what other people think....as most of them don't!
Huh... over $600 for a hardweld on your stock cams? Hmm... a brand new set of HKS in/ex cams for other cars usually run $600... and that's on the pricey end.
When they say check all clearance I would think they are talking about cam bearings and valve adjustment. You WERE going to replace the cam bearings right?
Gary
Uhh, if that has to be done I will...I imagined this would be a direct drop in since they are on the stock cams
dont get hipo na cams for the turbo. too much overlap + boost = stuff thats supposed to be in the combustion chamber not being there becuase it gets injected in then straight out the exhaust side.
unless you plan on running new fuel injectors + new ecu becuas eyoure ognn aneed to squirt the same amount of fuel in a shorter time span (then with standard cams), keep the stock cams.
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Originally Posted by RichieRichJP
Uhh, if that has to be done I will...I imagined this would be a direct drop in since they are on the stock cams
whenever cam lif tis changed you gotta check shims, bearings, valves, springs etc. a small duration change is acceptable but if it gets longer, you should get it checked as well.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Last edited by terrastrife; 11-03-2005 at 01:55 AM.
dont get hipo na cams for the turbo. too much overlap + boost = stuff thats supposed to be in the combustion chamber not being there becuase it gets injected in then straight out the exhaust side.
unless you plan on running new fuel injectors + new ecu becuas eyoure ognn aneed to squirt the same amount of fuel in a shorter time span (then with standard cams), keep the stock cams.
Oh course, I'm planning on running a full turbo setup and plan to get well over 200whp, that's why I'm getting the forged internals first
As far as fuel injectors go, I'm getting the MKIV Supra Green Top ones (315cc I think they were), and the 3SGTE 2 Bar Map Sensor. So is that good enough?
with afternarmket na cams and boost, no, you will need something a lot faster and much higher flowing (and the ecu to cotrol it) as your "window of opportunity" to allow fuel to be injected will be a lot shorter with the longer duration cams (if yorue thinking "longer duration, valves open longer" you gotta remember EXHAUST VALVE IS OPEN TOO! its flowing right out again).
stick with stock cams if youre boosting (im saying this yet again).
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
yes i mean stock profile, ie STOCK., not stock + stuff to make it no longer stock.
stock profile will boost earlier, easier and be a lot more drivable.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
you still better be looking at new springs maybe as theyll be working doubletime now
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
with afternarmket na cams and boost, no, you will need something a lot faster and much higher flowing (and the ecu to cotrol it) as your "window of opportunity" to allow fuel to be injected will be a lot shorter with the longer duration cams (if yorue thinking "longer duration, valves open longer" you gotta remember EXHAUST VALVE IS OPEN TOO! its flowing right out again).
stick with stock cams if youre boosting (im saying this yet again).
wait wait I have a question to ask, since I read it again and it kind of confused me..
First of all, I didn't know there would be a timing difference would be that critical. And "as your "window of opportunity" to allow fuel to be injected will be a lot shorter", wouldn't BIGGER fuel injectors correct this problem??
wait wait I have a question to ask, since I read it again and it kind of confused me..
First of all, I didn't know there would be a timing difference would be that critical. And "as your "window of opportunity" to allow fuel to be injected will be a lot shorter", wouldn't BIGGER fuel injectors correct this problem??
yes bigger will do it but no in the vicinity for 315cc (What he plans) and an safc2 youll probably want at least 400 maybe 450cc and a programmable piggyback.
the timing difference is you have less duration for the fuel squirt now
so i fyou have to squirt in 2x more fuel with 1/2 the time to do it, thats gonna need much more beefy fuelling gear.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
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