vacuum leak problem...also electrical problem related.

[afyouthbrigade]

okay, so i'm deciding to pull the system out of my car. 2x12 JL's in the trunk, and they're useless. why? well, when i have my system hooked up and start my engine, it will huff and puff and die unless i put a little pressure on the gas. so, i decided to pull the fuse from my amp (only pulls 350watts MAX @ no load - i get 150 to the speakers about) and start the car. to my surprise the car doesnt die. so, i was thinking it was a problem with my battery being almost dead since i would knock my system with the engine off sometimes. i go buy a new battery, and yep-- same problem. no system hooked up and a new battery, same problem. so i throw the old battery back in. sometimes my car will lack acceleration severly, and sometimes it will just throw me back in my seat, i dont get it. there is also a CEL for #71, EGR malfunction. with the loss of power and the EGR, im attributing the problem to a vacuum leak. now, question is is that my only problem? because if my amp is hooked up (and not even switched on via the deck), then am i putting more load on the engine because the alternator needs to generate more power and it cant at an idle setting?

also...i've leaned out the AF ratio and advanced the timing to 17*. that wouldnt make much of a difference will it? i dont hear a ping. this is a weird problem guys, i'd really appreciate it if i could get some input on this. especially about how to troubleshoot for the vacuum leak that seems to come and go (if that's the problem at all). thanks.

jon.
89 V6 2VZ-FE.

[Streetglower]

first things first, get the check engine light diagnosed. A malfunction with the EGR system doesnt really mean a vacuum leak. it could, but I doubt it. More then likely either you have reduced EGR flow through the valve or it is staying open or stuck closed. Pull the EGR valve and clean it out. See if it is dirty. EGR valves over time get carbon build up. You need to fix that though, a stuck closed EGR can contribute to very hot combustion chamber temps.

Now unless you are running a high perfromance engine, I would leave the timing at stock numbers. Dont ever lean out a air/fuel mixture, if you have it too lean, you will kill the motor. Lean mixture= hot. you need fuel to cool down everything.

Now with the system, you may have something hooked up wrong. Check everything and see whats going on.

But fix the check engine light first.

[afyouthbrigade]

well, i leaned out the AF ratio because i've read all over TN that the stock 2VZFE runs rich from the factory, and you can get more performance out of it by the lean/advance combo. i'll take your advice and set it back to 10*BTDC (i think that's stock), but i'm not sure how many clicks to set back the cog in the AFM (?). i'll sometimes get a CEL code about lean mix so i guess i'll see if that comes on and when it does just work backwards click by click. and i'll take a look at the EGR valve. i popped off the lid of either the EGR valve or the vacuum pump for it and pulled the dirty filter...so i have no filter in there. i'll do things the right way and actually go according to the repair manual i have.

my system is hooked up fine, it's a really basic setup. battery>amp>speakers. amp grounded to a chassis bolt by the firewall (dont ask me why i put the amp under the seat). it's weird though...with the fuse in the amp, my car will straight die after i start it if i dont keep on the gas. sometimes it wont though, and it will idle more smoothly. that's why i was thinking it had something to do with the vacuum leak...but i'm pulling the system so i might just rewire it and see what happens.

CEL will be fixed before the end of the week. thanks for the tip. i always get ahead of myself and think i know what's what about everything--until something goes wrong.

jon.

[terrastrife]

battery>fuse>cable>amp is how its supposed to be.

your amp may be shorting something which is when teh fuse next to the battery (to protect your car from the amp, fuses in amps only protect the amp butyour car still blows up) goes off.

ground amp as close as possible to the amp if you have bolted the amp down to the car floor, you may have a ground loop.

[Kep]

If you are going to clean the EGR yourself don't forget to inspect the exhaust supply tube and the vacuum hose from the bottom of the modulator valve to the exhaust port of the EGR valve. (that little rubber hose was packed with crud on mine).

Kep

[afyouthbrigade]

Originally Posted by terrastrife

battery>fuse>cable>amp is how its supposed to be.

your amp may be shorting something which is when teh fuse next to the battery (to protect your car from the amp, fuses in amps only protect the amp butyour car still blows up) goes off.

ground amp as close as possible to the amp if you have bolted the amp down to the car floor, you may have a ground loop.

i wasnt talking about the fuse in the power wire GOING to the amp, that one is always in. there is a fuse in the back of my amp that i pull. the amp is grounded maybe three feet from the amp, and the amp is just sitting on the carpet underneath the seat, not secured.

Originally Posted by Kep

If you are going to clean the EGR yourself don't forget to inspect the exhaust supply tube and the vacuum hose from the bottom of the modulator valve to the exhaust port of the EGR valve. (that little rubber hose was packed with crud on mine).

i'll make sure to check that, thanks for the tip

jon.