right front driveshaft boot (pics)

[DailyDriveCamry]

94 Camry LE 2dr I4 Auto

I swapped out the rims today to put on my junk winter ones, and the front passenger-side driveshaft boot at the wheel was covered in grease. It seems to have shredded near the bottom (camera is upside down).

I don't drive the car very often, so I didn't know about this. I test drove it around my cul-de-sac, and when making a sharp left turn at low speed it squealed. I'm not sure if this is related to the driveshaft but I assume so. What needs to be done, and what kind of expense am I looking at? What are the possibilities?

[73sport]

Take a look for the manual there is a PDF file link here that will tell you what you need and how to do it.

I just did my 95 Auto V6 and all II can say is, you better have a darn good 8mm tip to break the inner axel cap sockets loose. If you round one out, your life will become very miserable.....

You also need a 200LB torque wrench and socket to torque the axel nut back on. Beyond that, no "special" tools..... It is easy if you have the right stuff.

Let me know if you need addition info. I never looked at the manual for axel replacement. I just wing it and get it done. I can give you some tips but am short on time at the moment.

Look it over and let me know if you have specific questions.....

/randy

[DailyDriveCamry]

I've been reading the TN guide on driveshafts, and also the section in my Haynes manual on it.

Should I replace the entire CV axle assembly on the right side?
Is there anything else I would replace in the process?
Where should I buy the parts from? Advance Auto?
Are there any particular aftermarket brands that are good for CV assemblies?

[Cyorke]

It is easier and not quite as messy to replace the entire axle assembly, however you can replace jsut the CV joint.

Not really anything else to replace while doing it.

By the axle from a reputable auto parts company. Anywhere you buy one from should give you some kind of warranty on the part. You may look in your local phone book for companies that specialize in axles and driveshafts. When I was working on cars we would normally get them from one company that all they did was axles and driveshafts.

[vwsteve]

All you need to do is take the center cap off the wheel, loosen the axle nut, jack the car up and place a jackstand under the car, remove the wheel, take the ball joint loose and the tie rod loose. Then remove the axle out of the knuckle and take a large hammer and smack the axle with the hammer. Then the axle will come off the shaft be sure to watch how the parts come out. I.e. washers etc. if the axle was not making a loud popping noise when turning just put on a new boot and more grease and put it back togather. I have put about three boots on the VW between both sides and have never had to replace the axle yet and it is at 160000 miles.

[Ken4]

Removing the front hub nuts is a little difficult. It's torqued to about 250 ft-lbs and you need like a 4' long breaker bar to remove it. Once you remove the hub nuts, remove the 3 bolts on the lower ball joints and pull the hub out of the driveshafts. You can do this without disturbing the steering tie-rod ends. The right side driveshaft has a circlip that needs to be removed from the center shaft bearing support, then the driveshaft slides out easy. The left side driveshaft is a little tricky, it doesnt slide out easy bcos of the locking clip with the diff. Haynes manual says to pry it out, but that doesnt seem to work and it will likely cause some dents on the diff. I hammer it out with a crowbar and large hammer instead while I have an assistant tug on the driveshaft. It's a little awkward position to be hammering while under the car but if you jack the car high enuf you should have enuf room for your crowbar and hammer. Be careful when removing the left side driveshaft cos its very easy to damage the left side diff seal. I recommend replacing both sides boot covers (inner and outer) and new band clamps and grease, bcos if the right side has torn, the left side will tear at any moment now. And of course you need to bring the driveshafts to a driveshaft shop to get them reconditioned. It is not a DIY thing, you will not have the tools to replaces the boots or CV joint. The shop which I go to in Singapore charges S$70 to replace boots and clamps and new grease for each driveshaft. S$50 more if I want a new CV joint. Since the new CV joints are so cheap, I get them changed too, and new CV joints give me an incredibly smooth and vibration free drive.

[Hajoca]

If you want a cheaper solution, but a split boot kit (you will sue solvent glue to bond the halves together) and a can of breake cleaner to get the old grease out.

I ahve used the plit boots before, and they do not last as long as original, but you save alot of disassembly (you don't save time though) in case you do not want to take the hubs off, or lack tools / facilities. It is basically going to need the tools and space for changing a tire.

Make sure you support the car with a jack stand, as you are going to be under the car with your arms

[73sport]

I just bought 2 remanufactured axels for $90 bucks. With a 3 year warranty. New boots, new grease, new balls, warranty, less mess......

Basically - the cores cost more than the reman parts!

It looks like the V6 have the inner axels bolted to a yoke with 6 allen cap screws while the I4 push into the transaxle and lock via cer-clip.

Cocking the axel by prying on ONE side of the axel looks the clip tight and it won't come out (easily).

For those of you who have to pri them out - here is a trick.

Get the outer end disengauged from the hub and turn the strut 90 degrees so the axel does not hit it.
Use two pry bars and apply equal pressure to both side of the CV joint and pull it straight out. This is asking a lot but if you can do this and give the axel a tug - they pop out easily.

Also - for the V6 owners - you will find that you need to keep the axel from turning while your undoing the 6 cap screws on the inner CV joint. An assistane on the brake pedal is helpful, or if the axel nut is still in place put your breaker bar on the nut and hold it that way. OR (not recomended) put a screw driver into the vented rotor and use the caliper as a stop.


/randy