Easiest way to change wheel studs?

[Keep]

This upcoming week or two, I'm going to be replacing my OE wheel studs with some custom ones (different thread pitch for P71 Collared Wheel Nuts)

Does anyone have any suggestions or tips for an easy removal and install of wheel studs (bolts)? I've actually never done it, so even a link to a site would be great!

Thank you in advance.

[majones]

Search this site for wheel studs.

I actually haven't done this either but have had two replaced. I believe that wheel "studs" are just tapped out (backward) with a hammer, you then slide in the new stud add some washers for spacers and use an old lug nut and impact wrench to seat the new stud.

I believe wheel "bolts" are welded on.

[Keep]

Thank you for your reply.

I assume that my Gen 3 Camry has studs? Hopefully that is the case.

Tapping out the old ones hopefully wouldn't hurt anything (alignment, etc.)

And I can assume that good care must be taken while using an impact wrench while tightening. I don't want to ruin the new studs! haha.

[Keep]

I already searched before making this thread, But another more refined search gave me the answer I was looking for!

Originally Posted by 88 LE

You don't need to remove the hub.

Whack the wheel studs with a hammer, they'll pop right out.


To install them you need a special press. Or you can use a lugnut (one that you don't care about), washers, and a impact wrench.

Place the stud through the backside of the hub, washers over the stud, lugnut, then use the impact wrench. The impact wrench will draw the stud into the hub.

Install the wheels and torque the lugnuts (75 - 80 ft. lbs.). Go for a short drive, then torque the lugnuts again.

Thanks everyone!

[ST185]

When you tap them off, go easy on them.
Otherwise, you might damage the hub.
Several easy taps are better than slamming them with hammer.
They will come off slowly.

When you pull the new one in, be patient.
I used a lug nut to pull the new one in.
Make sure you have spare nuts and studs on hand.

[73sport]

I have not done a Cam either but have done plenty of others.
Some things to consider:
Make sure the stud that is comming out will not smash into anything important behind it.
If there is no room to get the old one out, you will have to pull the hub. That being said, take the hub to LesSchwab and have them punch it out with a press and put the new ones back in. These were pressed in by the factory by a press that kept the studs aligned with the hole as the cerated edge cut its way though the hub flange. When you put the new stud in, align the cerations for ease of assembly.
Be sure to press the stud in all of the way. Look at the factory ones, no gap on the back. Yours should look this way too.
To ensure you do not bend the hub flange, support the area around the stud with a solid metal object. Two pieces of metal stock 1/2" wide and longer than the installed stud is good.
If you plan on keeping the car, be nice to the wheel bearing. If you just want to get it done, find someone with an air hammer, pop the wheel, caliper, and rotor off. Set some of the weight of the car back down on a block of wood on the hub flange. This will absorb some of the shock you are about to dish out and keep the hub from spinning. With a pointed chesiel (spelling?) in your air hammer, press it into the stud and pull the trigger. The pounding will pop the stud right out.
If you don't have the air hammer - you can take a shot at it with a punch and 16oz hammer. Either way be sure to put your safety glasses on.
Trying to punch it out while on the car is hard on the wheel bearings and without an air hammer may not be too successful. Basicaly having the hub on a solid surface where the back side of the hub (around the stud) is supported will make a huge difference in how quickly it pounds out if you use a hammer.
To put the stud back in, Get the stud started into the ceration. Place several greased washers over the sdud and use an OEM lugnut (put on backwards) to pull the new stud through. Use oil on the threads. Once you have it seated, flip it over (if removed) and place it on the solid surface and smack it with your hammer. This should fully seat the stud.
CAUTION: If you do not fully seat the lug studs your lug nuts may come loose and you could loose your wheel!

Hope this helps....
/randy

[Cyorke]

WHen you remove the rotors and all of the brake parts so you can knock the studs out there is a spot on the backside of the hub that is notched so you can rmove the studs. I cant rememerb if it is toward the front of the car or the back but it is pretty easy to see whan you get everything off. Just turn the wheel to one side or the other and look for it. You will know it when you see it.

Whatever route you go about doing this make sure for the next week or two you retorque your lugs a couple of times after driving. You would hate for them to come loose if you did not seat them all the way.

I used to work in a tire shop when I first started working on cars and we replaced studs all the time. It is a pretty simple job. the longest part of it is getting the new ones put in and making sure they are seated all the way up to the hub. If you are doing all 20 of them on the car be prepared for a couple of hours worth of work. Getting ehm out is no biggie. Just the putting them back in. Make sure you get extras of the new studs you are going to be using because I can almost guaratee you that you will ruin a couple of them and have to redo them.

[Keep]

Thank you everyone for all of the input.

I'm going to set aside a whole weekend to do this, so as if there are any complications, I can handle them without being rushed.

I will take my time and take lots of pics, maybe do up a DIY.

Should have this tackled at my next convientient weekend.