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Old 12-12-2005, 08:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Forged vs Stock Parts - Rebuilding Q's

Hello. Many of you know that im Turbo'ing. I recently found out we had a long lost Toyota Mechanic thats a friend of the family... Basically, he will be doing work fairly cheap.

I read a few threads about stock forged internals and what is what is not.

I read that the 95's engines had stock forged rods and crank. is this right?

I was wondering what is key to replace first on the engine. Rods Rings Pistons Valves Crank. Would it be cheaper to replace with stock forged (if that holds up to be true?)

Also can I get websites that have prices on them? All the ones i found were call to order type of things.. and meh.

Only One I could find on pistons

Racing Engineering - http://www.raceeng.com/Pages/Page_3sc.html


I guess I could update the list.. lol

thanks

edit

On stock internals I want to run up to 7psi
Light built internals I want to run 10-12psi
Fully Built - Endless.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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at what psi will u be running it?
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Phoenix, those will go on your motor. I ordered all of the forged internals already. You want to get the ones for the 3SGTE. You'll need a .5mm bore on your engine to fit the forged pistons in and get the 3sgte connecting rods. I say stick with getting these vs. stock because obivously when you bore, you're allowing more fuel and it changes the compression (i think). The guy I'm getting all my shit from said he'll get me to my wanted 350whp safely. I'm likely going to get a AEM EMS to tune it because soon as you put this stuff in your engine, you'll need something like a SAFC-II. I suggest you all do all the port n polishing, 3 angle valve job, anodizing, etc. you need before you put the stuff in and run wih it
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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okay 3sgte parts fit. but how well do the rods connect to the crankshaft? do they still fit right? arent the 3s rods smaller than the 5sfe, so it will lower compression?
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
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??

Why not get a real motor like a 3S-GTE and build it up rather than mickey mousing parts onto the 5S-FE? If you sit down and compare the numbers ($$) vs. hp (or even hp potential) the 3S-GTE swap would come out equal or better I believe. Jon.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSinMD
Why not get a real motor like a 3S-GTE and build it up rather than mickey mousing parts onto the 5S-FE? If you sit down and compare the numbers ($$) vs. hp (or even hp potential) the 3S-GTE swap would come out equal or better I believe. Jon.
no.

i didnt ask for a motor swap opinion, thank you
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Old 12-13-2005, 12:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSinMD
Why not get a real motor like a 3S-GTE and build it up rather than mickey mousing parts onto the 5S-FE? If you sit down and compare the numbers ($$) vs. hp (or even hp potential) the 3S-GTE swap would come out equal or better I believe. Jon.
Because that would come out more expensive, becuase the 5SFE has a larger displacement engine and better torque potential, because for the money he would spend swapping he could be well on his way towards a 5SFE build...

Maybe thats what he was thinking.
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieRichJP
You'll need a .5mm bore on your engine to fit the forged pistons in and get the 3sgte connecting rods.
Rods for a 3S-GTE will not work on a 5S. 3S has smaller rod journals vs. 5S.

So if you want to use them, the crank needs to be machined. Or just buy the correct rods for your motor.

Quote:
I say stick with getting these vs. stock because obivously when you bore, you're allowing more fuel and it changes the compression (i think).
Boring increases the displacement of a motor. It has nothing to do with fuel or compression.

Longer/shorter rods and pistons change the compression. In the case of pistons you would go with higher or lower compression.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
On stock internals I want to run up to 7psi
Light built internals I want to run 10-12psi
Fully Built - Endless.
Its about airflow.

7 psi on a CT26 is different then 7 psi on a T72.


Decide how much power you want and build the motor around it. Forget psi.
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Last edited by 88 LE; 12-13-2005 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thats true, i thought i put ct26. Looking for about 200hp, which is probably aboput 10psi on a ct26. Keep the info coming. What do you think about the link i posted in the first post?
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Old 12-13-2005, 03:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
What do you think about the link i posted in the first post?
Not much info on that site.

Doesn't say what the bore size is, type of rings, who makes the pistons, and price.


Have you looked into JE, Arias, or CP?
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Old 12-13-2005, 03:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ill reaserch more later, but i found an ebay link with rods and pistons for arias

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8020740646 its expired but look at the engine models
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Old 12-13-2005, 05:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
Ill reaserch more later, but i found an ebay link with rods and pistons for arias

Goto the manafacturers site.


Pistons
------------

http://www.jepistons.com

http://www.ariaspistons.com

http://www.cppistons.com

http://www.probeindustries.com



Rods
--------

http://www.pauter.com

http://www.crower.com

http://www.oliver-rods.com

http://www.carrilloind.com

http://www.eaglerod.com



Those are the ones I know off of hand. Theres probably a lot more.
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Old 12-13-2005, 06:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 LE
Rods for a 3S-GTE will not work on a 5S. 3S has smaller rod journals vs. 5S.
So if you want to use them, the crank needs to be machined. Or just buy the correct rods for your motor.
Boring increases the displacement of a motor. It has nothing to do with fuel or compression.
Longer/shorter rods and pistons change the compression. In the case of pistons you would go with higher or lower compression.
Its about airflow.
7 psi on a CT26 is different then 7 psi on a T72.
Decide how much power you want and build the motor around it. Forget psi.
Thanks for the info. Oh yeah, sorry, I meant 5sfe connecting rods
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Old 12-13-2005, 06:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by UfoZ
Only problem is that my turbo cant keep up with my engine, the CT26 will just start blowing hot air around 18 or 19psi. Time for a turbo upgrade, then Ill hit my power goals.
You know, I've actually thought that the CT26 was too small. Any suggestions on a bigger turbo? I also thought that I might need bigger fuel injectors, 315cc also sounds too little. I just dont know what other injectors will fit

I was also told that since our motor is cast iron, there's a reduced chance of blowing our engines than the avg. car. If so, then I'll try hit the 400whp mark too
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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the shop i will be building my supercharger at says that it would be a waste of money for me to get completely new forged internals. With the super at 13psi he says i can manage the power just by shotpeening and polishing the beams on my rods and getting a full engine blueprinting. Combined with a new high strength head gasket, he says i should never have trouble.
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