OBD II codes 1410 & 1411 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

vkolli · 12-20-2005, 11:23 AM

THis is for my Camry V6 '97.
OBD code reader is flashing 1410 & 1411 codes. It doesn't have any letters (like P or U) before these numbers. Searched the web but couldn't come up with any description for these codes.

Do any of you know what these codes mean and how to fix them. Can I do it myself or does it need to be fixed by the dealer.

Thanks,

ekim55121 · 12-20-2005, 11:49 AM

those are p codes i think they are the ones related to the o2 sensors if im not correct some one correct me

csaxon · 12-20-2005, 12:52 PM

P1410 and 1411 are EGR valve position sensor malfuntion and Egr valve sensor circuit range/ performance problem.

Are you having other codes or driveability problems?

The EGR valve position sensor is mounted on the EGR valve. It detects the EGR valve position and signals the ECM to control the EGR valve lift amount in response to engine operating conditions.

If you have a multimeter you can test the connector and the EGR valve position sensor. I can give you the procedure if you have the test equipment and know how to use it.

Check the vacuum hose for leaks or crud buildup. The connector might just be loose. Take it off clean and reconnect it. You might also clean the EGR valve.

vkolli · 12-20-2005, 01:56 PM

Certainly appreciate your quick and detailed response.

Unfortunatly I have no clue what you are talking about

, so I better take it to the dealer to have it fixed. But would you be able to give me an idea, if its a major or minor repair, what's the time involved in checking & fixing the things you mentioned, so that I can go prepared to the dealer.

I don't have any drivability issues but I have a smog check comming up, so I better take care of it soon.

Cheers,

csaxon · 12-20-2005, 03:05 PM

That's too bad beause it may simply be a cracked or disconnected vacuum hose.

An EGR sensor replacement or valve replacement is not a major repair, but with labor and diagnostic fees it won't be cheap.

I haven't lived in the Bay area since 1985 so I can't recommend anyone, but a dealer qualified mechanic with the right diagnostic tools should be able to check it out in about 15 minutes or less.

Replace and check parts about 30 minutes to an hour.

I should mention that with labor costs so high that most service departments check the codes and just replace parts without a thorough diagnostic.

They figure they'll have to replace the part anyway.