motor removal - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

graymule · 01-02-2006, 05:34 PM

hey guys, this is my first visit to this site. i have a couple questions. first , i'm getting ready to pull the motor out of my '90 camry (4cyl.) and i wanted to know if i need to pull the transaxle w/ the motor or if it's better to leave the tranny in place. also, i have a haynes manual to assist me but i wanted to know if there are any suprises i need to know about.

thanx

88 LE · 01-03-2006, 05:25 AM

I find it easier to pull the engine and tranny together.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t110594.html

barthmonster · 01-03-2006, 08:11 AM

I think its the only way to go, the tranny and motor together. If you have a manual, you MIGHT be able to pull the motor only, but not with an auto. The motor and trans are hard to separate via the torque-converter to flexplate bolts.
You can do it with or without the book I think. It helps to figure out how to remove the axles. On my '91 corolla (similar vintage) there were 5 mounts: front, rear, left, right, and under the bottom. What a you-know-what!!
Have lots of fun!!

fabbb · 01-03-2006, 11:08 AM

Not a bad job. You will find the wire harness is in two parts. One comes from the passenger side firewall and weaves its way thru the intake manifold(once you get the egr pipe removed it will help a bunch) the other section of wire harness comes from the battery area going to the trans and cooling fans. Get that out of the way (lable everything) and then the only other tough bit is the drivers side 1/2 shaft coming out of the differential housing. The best way I have found to pull it out of the diff is to cut the band on the inner cv joint boot and put a slide hammer with vice grips on the cv joint outer housing and pop it good and hard. If you are going to replace the final drive seals in the dif ( where the 1/2 shafts exit the dif) pay close attention the depth you set them too. One side is flush, while the other is set under flush( can't remember the demension) but if you don't set the seals at the right depth they will leak! The drivers side 1/2 shaft can be a bit hard to get back into the dif completely as well. I have broken breaker bar handle the I have ground a feature into that allows me to put the inner cv joint shaft into the dif and then whack the breaker bar handle (using it like a diver or dirft) to drive it fully into the dif. It's just a matter of getting the inner cv shaft snap ring to seat completely in the dif. Good luck. Steve