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For those that don't know..I bought a 92' Camry 2.2L 5sp. It had a broken timing belt and leaked 2 quarts of oil a week.
I replaced the timing belt, Cap and Rotor, Plugs, Plug Wires, Belts, Crank Seal, Oil Seal, and Water pump while I was in there. Got it all back together and it still leaked oil.
Could not get the car to run right. I really didn't know how the car ran before I bought it due to the broken timing belt. Well, after much inspecting etc..I found that the car had a bad ECU due to the previous ownerBought another ECU for $150. Car fired up and ran perfect...
Tore it all back apart this past week because I could not deal with the oil slick that was happening on my driveway. Took the Oil pump off. To get the oil pump off I had to take the oil pan off, downpipe and a bracket near the oil pump. This was a major pain in the Arss! Replaced the 3 Seals in the Oil Pump. Replaced the Oil Pan Gasket. Put it all back together and has not leaked a drop of oil yet.
I have $600 total in the car. This includes What I bought it for. It runs like a champ! I have much more respect for the Camry......
So...If you have an oil leak...make sure you change the Oil Pump Seals. I learned the hardway.
-Ben
__________________ 92' 2.2L 16V Camry 91' Gti VR6-t "If you aim at nothing, you will hit it every time" Zig Ziglar-
did you pull the engine? i know mine has leak(s) coming from the oil pump seal, but dont want to attempt until i know what im in for.
you dont have to remove the engine. You jsut have to disconnect the down pipe fromthe exhaust manifold, and the oil pan to get tot he oil pump, besides the timing belt and all associated parts.
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Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
well wheen I was doing it I had a full set of air tools so I jsut hit them with either a 3/8 or 1/2 in impact. Only thing I can tell you is hit them with lots of PB blaster or something similar. WD-40 will not do it.
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Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
use all the stuff that you find such as pbblaster, liquid wrench, etc.
if that all fails, then you'll need to torch it
OR if you're really lucky, you may be able to do it by running your engine until it's hot (heating up the manifold and down pipe as well as bolts, etc.) and then once it becomes reasonably cooler, try and hit it with an impact gun
but if that still doesn't work, then don't keep on trying- bring it to a shop where they can torch it if you don't have one
I got mine off the first time from hte front manifold by running the car and letting it cool (this wasn't intentional, I had just gone for a drive and came back)
but hte second time when I tried it to adjust my gasket after tightening it back on, and then turning on the car to see if it still leaked exhaust, I hit it again with my impact gun, took one out, and snapped the other bolt
- long story short, it took my mechanic 4 hours to get that sucker out. he had to remove the front manifold and then drill it out that way
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
Remove Timing Belt
#2 Tensioner
PS Belt
Water Pump/AC belt
Downpipe where it connnects to the Manifold:
I soaked the bolts with WD-40 and then used my impact Gun to Zip them off. I originally tried to do it by hand with a my 1.5' foot long extension laying underneath the car. It seemed that it would be very hard to get the bolts off that way. So I used the air gun with my long extension to take the bolts off. One of the studs came out with the bolt. Luckily, the bolt was so rusted on the stud that I was able to zip the stud back into the flange without the bolt turning on the stud while impacting it into the flange.
You might ask why I laid underneath the car and used the long extension on my impact gun...I could not fit the impact gun and hose in the space that was provided. I wanted to make sure I had perfect alignment on the bolts before I pulled the trigger so I would not strip the bolts. It's very easy to strip bolts with an impact gun if your not careful and have the proper alignment of the socket around the bolt.
After getting the bolts off, I was able to pull the DP flange away from the Manifold. You have to do a little muscleing to push it down and out from the studs. The DP flex pipe allows you to get enough spring action to push it down and away from the exhaust manifold.
Next, you have to take the bracket off that sits in between the downpipe and the oil pan. This is very hard to get off if you don't have the DP out of the way. Loosent the 3 14MM bolts and pull the bracket off.
Next, undo all the 10mm bolts that hold the oil pan on. Remove oil Pan.
Next, undo all the oil pump bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. Before prying the oil pump away from the block, make sure you take the oil strainer off first. The oil strainer is held on by 2 nuts and 1 bolt. Make sure you replace the oil strainer gasket where the two small bolts were. Mine gasket was cracked in half so I made my own gasket out of gasket material I bought from autozone. You are now ready to carefully pry the oil pump away from the block.
In the oil pump, replace the shaft seal, the Oil pump pulley O-ring (in the housing area) and the gasket that sits in between the entire oil pump and the block. I was only able to find the big gasket that sits in between the oil pump and the block at the dealer. For some reason, the gasket was only available if you bought the entire oil pump at my local import parts store....
Put everyting back together in the reverse order.
Hopes this helps...This leaked really pissed me off so I bit the bullet and had to git'r done.
-Ben
__________________ 92' 2.2L 16V Camry 91' Gti VR6-t "If you aim at nothing, you will hit it every time" Zig Ziglar-
Got everything off.. I just need to get the bracket from the transaxle to the block and I should be able to get this pan off.. it's about 11:30 in AustinTX right now.. I'm now thinking of doing my timing belt gasket.. how hard was that, anybody?
The hardest part about replacing the timing belt cover gasket on my car (see my signature) was getting the old gasket material off. Even that was not too bad.
I bought the gaskets at the dealer. There were two separate part numbers. They did not include the gasket that runs along the bottom of the upper timing belt cover. I just laid a bead of Permatex Ultra-Copper along that surface and let it harden. Before I reinstalled the timing belt covers, I smeared a thin layer of silicone grease on the mating surfaces of the new gaskets. I figure they won't stick much, if at all, to the engine block the next time I take the covers off. YMMV.
Good luck!
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Digger1
"If you don't understand the technology you depend upon, you will someday be a victim of that technology."
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Finally Fixed the Oil Leak
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