DIY Help - Brakes & Rotors - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

AlBaraa · 01-20-2006, 10:37 PM

Hi all,

I need to replace my front rotors and brake pads on my 97 Camry. I was thinking I'll buy the pads and rotors from tire rack and replace it myself...only thing is I've never done this before and wanted some help as to what i need to know and/or do.

How do i replace the rotors? Is it hard? Same thing wit the brake pads...are there any DIYs on this site (I looked and couldnt find any).

Help would be much appreciated

Nuke209 · 01-21-2006, 05:52 AM

well, you can get your pad and rotor anywhere, make sure they're pretty decent

it's pretty simple for the fronts (never done back)

I just jacked up car, removed wheel
Remove 2 bolts behind caliper (I think 17mm)
And slid the caliper off the rotor
My rotor was stuck, so i had to use a hammer and hit the inner part of the rotor (in between the lug screws) until it came loose (this was like in -5 degree weather)
It broke loose, and i removed the rotor
See if your rotor is still good, you can get away with just resurfacing them (which I did at checkers auto for 10 bucks each) because they were pretty much still good and wasn't thinning out yet
As for the pad, remove the pad, and use a C-Clamp to push the big O piston back down, then use some brake grease on the brake pins and put in new pads
Slide caliper back, and bolt on

Dont forget to bleed the brakes

WhiteRabbit · 01-21-2006, 09:50 AM

^i dont think bleeding is necessary, someone correct me if i'm wrong

Bunthy · 01-21-2006, 10:38 AM

bleeding shouldn't be necessary if you didn't do anything to the brake line besides moving it out of the way

johnnyzee · 01-21-2006, 10:46 AM

maybe he meant and I must put this in CAPS:

MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES BEFORE DRIVING / MOVING YOUR CAR!

AlBaraa · 01-24-2006, 10:29 AM

What is the difference between bleeding and pumping the breaks? Im confused...

Mike Gerber · 01-24-2006, 03:55 PM

Bleeding the brakes means getting all the air out of the brake system once a hydraulic component has been opened. Since you really are not opening a hydraulic component in a routine brake job there is no need to bleed the brakes.

You will have to pump the brake pedal a few times before driving off. Before installing the new pads you will have to push the piston back in to the caliper as far as it will go, to allow enough space to install the new pads. As the pads wear down with age and use, the piston inside the caliper has to extend out further for the pads to reach the rotor and apply pressure. That is why you have to periodically add small amounts of brake fluid to the master cylinder; to take up the slack in the hydraulic system as the pads wear down. When you have pushed the piston all the way back in to the caliper to install the new pads, it will take several pumps of the pedal to push the piston back out far enough for the new pads to now reach the rotors. You may have to pump the pedal 4 or 5 times before you feel the pressure of the pads being pushed against the rotors. This is no big deal. Just pump it a few times before driving off and then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder.

Mike

vincentfox · 01-24-2006, 05:56 PM

It's in the Camry FAQ!

I recently added a post to the tail of it, detailing how to get the rotor off easily without throwing your shoulder out using a hammer!

Here's a direct link:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t92082.html

AlBaraa · 01-27-2006, 04:20 PM

I was looking on Tire Rack and am considering the following rotors and brake pads:

Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads

Brembo Replacement Rotor
What do you guys think of this? The rotor is $45 each (totaling $90) and the pads are for $64. Good deal or no?

Should i go with it?

AlBaraa · 01-27-2006, 04:27 PM

or maybe i want to invest in a better rotor? Although double the price of the other rotors...this one seems appealing..no?

PowerSlot Cryo-Treated Rotor

Kep · 01-28-2006, 12:54 PM

I have a Gen 2 so I don't have to worry about anti-lock brakes. You just squeeze the caliper open and go. However, if you have anti-lock brakes I understand that back pressure like that can damage the guts of the anti-lock system. I heard that you can open the bleeder valve and sacrifice the brake fluid in the caliper (it goes out into a container or on the floor instead of back up into the master cylinder) or you can hook a machine up to the system to control the valves.

Do Toyota anti-lock brakes require a special procedure?

Kep

nodrogkam · 01-28-2006, 04:52 PM

Hawk peroformance pads are very nice. My XLE v6 came from the factory with basically Akebono Ceramics, and i just got those again. Very nice. On light driving they had lasted 7 years....75K.

Brembo rotors are the way to go, but its not really necessary to get such nice rotors. Totally up to you and your budget.

73sport · 01-28-2006, 04:57 PM

OK - think about this: PLEASE READ

The brake fluid has been captive in that system for years and is picking up moister (#1 killer or brake system) and debris from the deterioation of fluid, hoses, seals and pistons.

It is Highly recommended to bleed the system yearly to keep it healthy.
As mentioned, it is not a good idea to force all that crap back into the master cylinder as it can lead to master cylinder failure.

That being said you can take a functional system and ruin it by shoving the old worn out master cylinder to the floor during the 2 man manual bleed process. Or forcing the nasty old fluid back into the reservoir Why?

Because the system has not seen the full length of travel (master being pushed to the FLOOR COMPLETELY) and the sediment at the end of the bore gets trapped in the rubber piston. No it dosen't fail immediatily, but it may cause the master cyl to fail shortly there after the brake job is completed (month). Does this make sense?

Most DIY do not bleed the system and if you have never done it before, have a proffesional do it!
If you plan to do it, you will need a helper. Also - although faster, it is not required to push the cylinder completely to the floor (no mans land for all the sediment). This will take longer, but unless you plan on returning, resist the temptation to push it to the floor during bleeding or you will be returning to replace the master cylinder.

If your cylinder is new, no worries - push it down all the way. Or you can pressure bleed by forcing the fluid through the system (special hardware required) and cracking each wheel bleed to get the new fluid through the system and displace all the air and sediment.

Thats why the boys at Les Schwabies give you the high bill. That can't afford to take the risk of having a system failure, so they go the safe route and replace the master cyl, calipers and wheel cylinders (if not 4 wheel disc).

PS - A NEW MASTER CYLINDER IS CHEAP INSURANCE!

Nice Book Eh? SAFETY is Must and I hope this helps.....

EDIT: One last thing - before those of you with deep pockets go out and buy the cross drilled rotors, DO LOTS OF READING and look for key words like "Cracks"/"Warp" ect. Yes, they look Kool but most are not meant for street use where they DO NOT GET INPECTED REGULARLY!

/Randy

Donald · 01-28-2006, 08:11 PM

One thing to remember.

Before you press the pistons back into the caliper bores, check the dust boots for tears or cracks.

If there are cracks or tears, pull the boots away from the caliper and inspect the pistons for dirt and grime, and wipe around them with a clean rag damped with brake fluid to clean them off. This avoids you having stuck pistons and dragging brakes that lead to all kinds of problems and expences later on.

I do this cleaning even if the boots are good just for peace of mind.

AlBaraa · 08-10-2006, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nuke209

well, you can get your pad and rotor anywhere, make sure they're pretty decent

it's pretty simple for the fronts (never done back)

I just jacked up car, removed wheel
Remove 2 bolts behind caliper (I think 17mm)
And slid the caliper off the rotor
My rotor was stuck, so i had to use a hammer and hit the inner part of the rotor (in between the lug screws) until it came loose (this was like in -5 degree weather)
It broke loose, and i removed the rotor
See if your rotor is still good, you can get away with just resurfacing them (which I did at checkers auto for 10 bucks each) because they were pretty much still good and wasn't thinning out yet
As for the pad, remove the pad, and use a C-Clamp to push the big O piston back down, then use some brake grease on the brake pins and put in new pads
Slide caliper back, and bolt on

Dont forget to bleed the brakes

I chickened out and brought the stuff to the mechanic to do. He replaced the pads for me, and resrufeced the rotors. The rotors were still pretty messed up.

My new rotors came in just yesterday. Will i still need a C-clamp and stuff? Also...what are the tools that i need to do this front rotors replacement job, and approx how much time should it take?