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Old 01-25-2006, 08:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Simple question. please reply!

Hey guys, thanks for your help, I appreciate it. I have a 2000 camry 4 cyl and trying to find out what amperage my alternator puts out?? I jsut finished installing a stereo system in the car. Nothing insane, 1 12in sub and 2 amp, total os 800 watts. I got a big batt with 4 ga wire going to body and block as well as 4 ga wire going to alt. all paint removed and everything soldered. When i play the system loud my lights dimm like you would not beleive, People think I am flashing them! I am thinkiong the alt is small amp unit due to the 4 cyl??


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Old 01-25-2006, 08:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/ymm.cfm
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Old 01-25-2006, 08:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks man , only 80 amps. wonder if I can get it rebuilt to 100 or 120.

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Old 01-25-2006, 09:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check out some of the places that advertise HO alternators here on TN. I think some are on the bottom of this thread currently.
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Old 01-26-2006, 11:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Get a high farad cap.
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Old 01-26-2006, 02:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah dude don't mess with the alt, just get a capacitor, or a second batt, but since it such a small system go for the cap, since you are working with less than 1000 W a 1 Farad Capacitor is more than enough for you,
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I appreciate the response but I feel a cap is a bandaid, rather redo the alt. I HEARD the 80's supra alt is 120 amps and fits my car. Will find out tomrorow.



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Old 01-29-2006, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Capacitors are a waste of money.
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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WHat are the chances of you guys knowing if another alternator froma diff model toyota would fit my 2000 camry??? I am looking for 120-130 amps if possible.


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Old 01-29-2006, 10:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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another way that may improve flow of current is by "adding" and upgrading your battery wire from your battery to your alternator to 4awg. and make sure you put a fuse inbetween them. The size of the fuse should be the size of the output of the alternator. Also add another 4awg wire from your negative terminal from the batter to a good grouding spot on your car (chassis of your car)...make sure it's no more that 1 foot long. And the third and last wire upgrade you want to do is ground your engine block by using a good point such as the alternator braket or I know on my 1MZFE I have a point on my tranny that is a good grounding point.

Make sure all of your grounds are good and not like 3 feet of wire. The only reason why I say is to upgrade your wires underneath your hood is to make the current flow much better. When I did these 3 wire upgrades it help my sysetm alot....I have two JL amps and bummping with a W7 sub. Though since my car is dead I can take pictures and show you or give you and idea on what I mean.

A cap will help a sysetm but majority of the time it's the wires that need to be upgraded or the battery. IF you decieded to go with a battery upgrade go either with a red top or yellow top optima battery those are they best for car audio...trust me I have only a yellow top and with the Wire upgrade under my hood and I don't need a cap at full volume.

Though I know some ppl might hate using CAPS but in my honest opinion CAPS are a life saver and help your battery from draining all the way.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thansk for the help. This is what I did about 2 weeks ago:
4 GA grd from Batt to body, everything crimped and soldered, paint removed.
4 GA grd from BAtt to engine Block, everything crimped and soldered.
4ga wire from alt to Batt, everything crimped and soldered. everything is done right. BEFORE I did this my fuse and fuse holder near the abttery (for the amp) MELTED while I was tunign stereo for 30 minutes. AFTER I did the wire upgrades I now pop fuses on HARD hits and the wire is a little warm not NOT hot like it was!. The fuse is rated more then my amps. The batt is 850 CCA, brand new Deka. I lights dimm like you would not believe when I am playing hard. It msut be the alt is not pushing enough amperage. The mono amp is running at 1 ohm load as well.

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Old 01-30-2006, 12:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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what brand amps you have? and what kind of subs your pushing? and also it depends what kinda of music....I listen to alot of house and progressive and my lights don't dimm at all..though it stopped when I got my optima battery...
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Old 01-30-2006, 02:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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sounds like your only solution is to get a higher output alternator to prevent dimming
in smaller power cases, good grounds can solve the problem

and a cap NEVER solves the problem- take a search and you'll find there have been many discussions about the use of caps- basically they are wortheless unless you need such quick and powerful base that your amp has to draw faster than the battery can discharge- thus, a cap will give it the power that it needs- regardless, your lights will still dim

and there are no oem-type replacements for the 5sfe- you'll either have to get yours rebuilt or buy an aftermarket performance one from an alternaotr supplier (or ebay)
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Old 01-30-2006, 02:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm in two minds about Caps...my friend just bought one. He has a pretty intense sound system, and had it fairly cranked for 30minutes one day, and the car still started perfectly. Before he installed it, it wouldve died. I've heard though they can be a waste of money.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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These are Toyota dealer part numbers you can check on. They're from a 4 cyl Highlander 2001.


130 Amp 270602017084 $331.54

In-Line4, 100 Amp 270602810084 $409.25

In-Line4, 130 Amp 270602813084 $450.31

130 Amp 2706020170 $602.87

In-Line4, 100 Amp 2706028100 $541.71

In-Line4, 130 Amp 2706028130 $600.36

Go here and insert the part number and car make for a better price.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=213824
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