Who has Successfully Adjust Valve Lash 1MZ????

[73sport]

All,
Anyone out pulled their 1MZ apart and adjusted the Valve Lash to make the tick go away?

Toyo lists manys shims for this, do they have them in all those sizes or do you have to order them?

Tired of the TICK.......


Thanks,

73


TAG: Valve Adjust, Lifter noise, lifter, tappet, intake, exhaust, 1mz, V6, Valve Lash

[marc780]

Check your valve clearances, if they're within spec i'd leave em alone. A little valve noise wont hurt anything (every one of the six 4 banger cars i've ever owned had it and it never caused any problems whatsoever). Adjusting the valves on Camry requires special tools, swapping shims, a lot of hassle all around. Andf If any mistakes are made and the valves are made too tight, your exhaust valves will quickly burn for sure and you will need a valve job.

[Cyorke]

LIke he said check the clearances and if they are iin spec leave them alone. I have not done a 1MZ but I have done some other Toyota shimmed engines. They are a bitch. Yes they really do ahve that many shims. I dont know if we had them in stock or not though because we would jsut ekeep all the old ones from engines we had to replace. Every engine we replaced we jsut took all the shims out and put thim in boxes for each specific engine. The bad thing is everytime we had to put new shims in we would hav eto use a micrometer to check each one til we found the right one.

IF you dont know I used to work as a tech in a Toyota dealer here in Nashville. I say everytime we had to adjust valve clearance. I will say in the almost 3 years or so that I worked there I think I only adjusted one or two.

[chronoti]

or you can switch to i belive 1zz lifters ...........

[csaxon]

When do you get this tick and what oil filter do you use?

[73sport]

All,
Thanks for you input!

I bought the Cammy used w/152K. The tick is most promenent on the front bank passenger side and it sounds like it is isolated to like 1 cylinder intake or exhaust.

It is present from start up, cold or hot through all RPM ranges and is about half the speed of the crank. So without taking anything apart I say it is valve lash. I used a stick to the ear to listen and you can pinpoint it pretty close.

As mentioned above: loose is better than BURNED! But the sound annoys me!

I run it pretty hard on occasion letting it use the entire RPM band at least once a day.
I have revved it good a couple of times, as it doesn't know when to quit if manually shifted. It will pull to 7,600 RPM in first and second. No changes in sound since I bought it in early November.

I run Wix filters. In this case it has the 1qt 51515 filter, same as my big V8 Fords (5.7L and 7.8L). But made the same noise when I got it and through 2 other filter brands.

QUESTION: Can this be done without the special tool? Can you describe exactly what it does? Can I make this tool?

Why is it such a b$tch to reshim?

Thanks in a advance for any input!

Randy

[Cyorke]

You dont have to ahve the special tool to reshim it. It jsut makes it easier. If you go to the Gen3 sticky that is at tha top of the page and download it you can see pictures of the special tool they use. You could probably make one fairly easily. Basically all it does in wrap around the camshaft then sit on the edge of the shim bucket to push it down so the shims can removed. Like I said the repair manual that is stickied gives detailed instructions on how to do it.

As for it being a PITA, it isnt really that bad. Just sucks having to do the shims instead of like a Toyota 22R with the screws and jam nuts. You just have to make sure you ahve the right shim. I guess you could check the clearance then figure out which shim you need then run to the dealer to get it, as long as they have them in stock. Also in the repair manual it lists out all of the different shims in a graph.

Here is the SST that SnapOn sells for this purpose. So you have an idea of what it looks like and all. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&group_ID=1569

[Digger1]

73,

My car is in my signature, so YMMV.

I bought the SST from Snap-On. I couldn't figure out a way to do without it, short of pulling the camshafts every time I needed a shim.

The tool is tricky to use. I'm pretty good with it now, but it definitely took some patience and practice.

Good luck!

[73sport]

Cyorke, or any other Toyo line mechanics,
I pulled it apart today and it was exactely the place it sounded like from the outside.
The left front cylinder #2 Exhaust has .031" clearance (the one closest to the cam belt/gear. Remember the spec is .010" - .014".

All of the other exh and intakes are normal and withen spec.

So I pulled the shim out and measured it (just a big ol Snap On screw diver and some continuous pressure). It is the max thickness @ 0.1299" (3.3mm) #17 and it has .031"! Somethin sh|t the bed in valvetrain!

There is no shim to make up the difference. Any guess from prior experience what item(s) had worn? I did measure the base circle diameter of the exhaust lobe and it was identical to all the others so it seems like it is not the cam but some other part of the assembly.

Well guys, I am open to all ideas here. If I pull the cam can I get the lifter assembly out, or does the head have to come off?

I'm tired and didn't look at the manual, sorry. In the last two months it does sound like it is getting louder so I would hate to drop a valve or have some other catostrophic failure. It runs too nice.

OH - A WORD TO THE WISE, PLUG THE BIG A$$ HOLE (OIL DRAIN BAKE) AS THE SHIM CAN FIT THROUGH IT AND MAKE ITS WAY TOWARD THE OIL PAN. Thank goodness it IS MAGNETIC or 1MZ life would suck somethin bad right now. Yes, it made its way about 7" down into the block and stopped!

Thanks for any advice the shim problem.

Randy

[Cyorke]

THe only thing I can think is the valve itself is burnt and seating higher into the valve seat than it should be. Or the seat itself is damaged somehow. THe only way to determine is to remove the cylinder head and have it checked.

[88 LE]

^ Could it be a worn lifter bucket?

Originally Posted by 73sport

If I pull the cam can I get the lifter assembly out, or does the head have to come off?

Just pull the cam. The buckets are underneath the cam.

[73sport]

Cyorke,
I would think but I don't know for certain that if the valve were seating to deeply I would have No clearance and that would have lead to a burned valve. So best guess is the valve is OK unless it somehow lost some of its end and is too short.
It looks more likely that some other part has failed.

Does anyone have any closeup pictures of the bucket assmebly OR Better yet, all of the parts laid out. The black and white scetches don't do much for a visual.

Originally Posted by Cyorke

THe only thing I can think is the valve itself is burnt and seating higher into the valve seat than it should be. Or the seat itself is damaged somehow. THe only way to determine is to remove the cylinder head and have it checked.

From what 88LE posted, does this all pull out once the cam is clear? It has good compression so I don't think the valve is burned. So, for the exception of the spring, spring retainer and valve keepers - it should all pull out once the cam is gone yes?

One thing I did notice is that inside of the cover you can clean spots where oil is thrown. On that end of the exhuast, there is just build up, no cleansing action like the other areas, so maybe there is something wrong with the oil feed at that location and it wore itself out?

Anyone ever had the shim come out while driving?

More pictures and comments please....

Oh - If I pull the cam any PM to do while there assuming the head stays on? Timing belt, water pump ect - Belt done at 96K, it has 160K now.

Have you guys ever seen this before?

Thanks,

Randy

[Cyorke]

From what 88LE posted, does this all pull out once the cam is clear? It has good compression so I don't think the valve is burned. So, for the exception of the spring, spring retainer and valve keepers - it should all pull out once the cam is gone yes?

Yes once you remove the cam then you will be able to access the shim bucket. There is not much to it though. Just the bucket and the shims. Everything else is held in by the retainers.

As for a better picture have you been using the factory repair manual or the Haynes manual. IF the Factory manul that is stickied on teh main forum page I dont know what to tell you as far as a better picture. IF you are using the Haynes then try the factory manual.

Cant say as I ahve ever seen a shim come out while driving.

as for other maintenance you can do the t-belt but you dont really have to tear it down that much to get the cam out.

Just make sure you use the 10mm bolt to hold the cam gears in place. One of them is spring loaded and you need to lock it into place before you remove the cams. There should be instructions for this in the Haynes manual and if not I know for sure they are in the factory manual.

[lexusmech]

I had a broken compression ring once that made a ticking noise like that. Luckily it was the second ring. Basicly about a 4" section of ring had broken from the rest of the ring, but it was still in the ring landing. Everytime the piston would go up and down it would click. It sounded more like a rod knock though. Sure you're not chasing a fuel injector tick? they're pretty loud on those motors. At least on the RX300.

[73sport]

Chris,
As for a manual, I just looked at the EG2.pdf for the shim spec. The rest, just wing it. Page 61 of the manula does show the assembly and from that it looks as though there are no springs, keepers, or plungers, inside of the bucket True? Or is it just a cup which sits on the valve stem and holds the shim. My shim had no visible defects or wear, no number either.

So I need to get a bucket or two and be ready for the day when I yank the cam out and hopefully it is not the valve.

Where does this thing gets its oil from anyway? Is there a hole in the head where the bucket rides to lube the bucket and valve spring (keep the spring cool)?

Has anyone (else) ever encountered this problem before and what the fix?



Thanks,
Randy