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Hey all you gen3's out there. Anyone running crossdrilled rotors on their car? I have all disc and i was planning on getting crossdrilled rotors, but i'm not sure if they are worth it. Should I run semi metallic pads or can I still run my ceramic pads? Also, i was thinking about getting rotors off of ebay, wonder if they are any good. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Magnu...spagenameZWDVW
i got brimbo sloted/cross drilled. and i run toyota pads (no dust and work good). you dont want to run hard pads on cross drilled makes them easy to crack. and if you do a search you will find tons of topics on this. alot of people dont like then becouse of cracking. but had mine on for about 3 years now and run them hard. and now cracking.
dont waste your money on cross drilled rotors. its the stupidest thing ever for a daily driver. keep your stock rotors and get a set of good pads from hawk or the like.
P.S. use the search button as this has been beaten to death a thousand times.
solid rotoers outbrake and outlast either slotted or drilled rotors. gotta remember most aftermarket rotors are also THINNER, and then they cut it, making it even worse =)
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
if you track- then get blanks- as said, they actually work better generally
if you daily drive - get cross-drilled AND slotted - because chances are you won't use them so hard that they would crack anyway, and then AT LEAST YOU'LL LOOK GOOD
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
i drive along time and then hit the city and use the brakes that are hot and that is what kills them. my blanks worped like crazy all the time. sence i put my set on thay seem to stay cooler and dont worp. only had them ternd after i broke them in. and have put on about 60000 on them sence
warping would mean your calipers are shot and not pressing evenly.
to heat iron up enough to bend /warp it would mean 1000C which of course would melt your brake liens, brake pads and everything plastic within the general vicinity first.. heck, youll even melt hubcaps as the heat fron the brake rotors are transferred to your wheels.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
but if your calipers clamped down straight and even there would be no lateral force to warp them.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
All,
I highly recomend you do some research and lots of reading before buying cross drilled rotors!
For the most part, they were created before pad technology came as far as it is now. Meaning, early glue and brake compounds created a lot of gas as the pad was heated. With an unslotted, unvented rotor the gas has no where to go and once hot enough it will make a vapor barrier between the pad and the rotor. This is when the pedal goes hard and your braking ability deteriorates rapidly as the heat increases.
Venting the gas from the pad/rotor helps reduce this. But todays premium PADs use much better materials and vent far less gas during heavy braking. So for most of us, there is no need for cross drilled rotors or slots.
IF YOU DO BUY THEM: Look for ones that have these qualities....
Holes do not pass through vanes (this leads to cracks and warpage).
ALL of the holes are chamfered on both sides. Meaning, a hole clean through the rotor to the other side on a vented rotor will have all 4 ends chamfered! This is very expensive for good ones and then the rotor must be stress relieved and trued again. Simply drilling holes in the rotor reduces its mass which createsmore heat to dissipate and creates stress risers that lead to cracks. Are you ready to inspect your rotor every week for cracks? If you buy them, you better or you are putting yourself and others at risk!
Several things can reduce the life of your rotor and lead too cracks, hard spots, warpage.
First off, if you don't own a torque wrench, you should get one. Once the rotor comes up to temperature and is allowed to cool with stress on it, like a parking brake, unevenly torqued nuts ect, it can warp. Even your premium parts $$$$$!
Common things: braking to hard, heating them to quickly and then parking the car. Bad idea. Bring them up to temp gradually, use them and allow them to cool gradually before parking and shoving the E-brake on.
We all love are wheels but there is a downside to our open spokes: One side of the rotor is allowed to cool much quicker than the other. This can also lead to warped rotors. Most productions rotors are sand cast and have a higher amount or pourosity, pits, core shift and other irregularities that tend to start cracks and promote warpage when used hard. Name brand aftermarket parts like Brembo have far better control over thier processes and this is what you are paying for.
Again: Please do lots of reading....
My vote, buy the best pads you can afford, leave the bling bling rotors on the shelf, and check your brake systems often.
Last thing: Have you bled your brakes to get the moisture and sediement out of the system? This should be your first step!
Regards,
Randy
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
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