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I've read all through every sticky, every post i pull up in searching, everywhere... and I can't find any vendors or anyone selling turbo adapters (or DIY info) for the 3sgte manifold that is so easy to come by and bolts right up to the 5sfe. I have a few like "new turbos" lying around and I would really like a budget setup as i don't want insane power just something that doesn't fall on its face at the upper rpms like the ct26 does. Is there anyone that sells adapters for garret t3 or MHI TD05H turbos?
as for an adapter, 2 flanges, peice of stock, weld, weld, done.
unless your 5s is built for 350hp+ why even bother with something not proven?
a used but good nic ct26 will outlast your engine. the 5s is the weak point, not the turbo.
but as you said, youve already got another turbo with a different flange lying around. cast iron is a bit hard to weld at home so just get the 2 flanges needed and play lego with them. of course this will sit the turbo whoever lower the adapter you make is, which may or may not be a good thing as a lot of pp lhave issues with the oil filter location and bolting it up lower may just clear it =)
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Last edited by terrastrife; 02-02-2006 at 12:57 AM.
I've read all through every sticky, every post i pull up in searching, everywhere... and I can't find any vendors or anyone selling turbo adapters (or DIY info) for the 3sgte manifold that is so easy to come by and bolts right up to the 5sfe. I have a few like "new turbos" lying around and I would really like a budget setup as i don't want insane power just something that doesn't fall on its face at the upper rpms like the ct26 does. Is there anyone that sells adapters for garret t3 or MHI TD05H turbos?
The only way the CT-26 turbo will fall on its face is when you exceed the flow limit of the turbo, or exceed the max effiency at a certain boost (14PSI for CT-26). That's roughly 280+ HP, and you won't be getting anywhere near that with a stock block 5S-FE.
__________________ * Goal for 2012 -- 200+ MPH in the Camry
Yea, I know i won't get enough out of my block to merit a larger turbo. but correct me if i'm wrong that the bigger 2.2l engine forces the the stock mr2 turbo to spin alot faster to maintain boost. mr2 guys talk about the ct26 falling off up top. i know i cant rev as high but doesn't my volume make up for that? So boost would fall off at the top of the 2.2l rpm range as well.
Nevertheless, yes I have a S16G and an 18G both with TD05H turbines with under 1000 miles on each. My DSM is my fast car. My wife just wants something quick. I have been looking at the small 16g compressor map and comparing it to the horsepower levels many have said they have achieved with a 7-8 psi setup (around 200 crank horsepower), this would put me right in the middle efficiency island at 77% efficiency!!! can't beat that. So I might as well go with what I got.
7-8 psi with close to 200hp is about right for the ct26 but erm, that auto wont be lasting too long without a large cooler to give it a lot more leeway in cooling.
just remember swapping a 5 speed manual would be about as quick as the auto turbo
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
as for an adapter, 2 flanges, peice of stock, weld, weld, done.
unless your 5s is built for 350hp+ why even bother with something not proven?
a used but good nic ct26 will outlast your engine. the 5s is the weak point, not the turbo.
but as you said, youve already got another turbo with a different flange lying around. cast iron is a bit hard to weld at home so just get the 2 flanges needed and play lego with them. of course this will sit the turbo whoever lower the adapter you make is, which may or may not be a good thing as a lot of pp lhave issues with the oil filter location and bolting it up lower may just clear it =)
Thanx, this is what i was going to do if I couldn't find a source.
As for the 5s not being durable. My wife has 255,000 miles on it and she got 33 mpg on her last tank. no burning oil. she runs the sh!t out of it all the time and it has never once made a noise or hinted towards not starting. The compression is a bit high for turbo applications for sure but. I wouldn't say that is neccessarily a weak link. Are the rods weak? or the bearings? or the pistons? rod bolts? I plan on using ARP head studs (if they are made). Of course, I am pulling the engine down for a rebuild. That's why I'm asking about the turbo info now. I'm going to put her back together with the turbo installed. Does any one know where I can get an SMT-6? How does this wire into the 5sfe harness? Is it like this write-up: Official SMT-6 piggyback install guide for 3vz-fe's.
ct26 doesnt have a great high end, although it just wont fall flat on its face, a ct27 or ct20b (same bolt pattern as the ct26) will be great for a lot of power, but the price is a lot higher.
Auto + turbo = NA + manual? Somehow i dont see the manual giving the extra 40-50 extra hp.
No doubt a manual will be better, but the auto turbo will be faster than the na manual (of course if properly tuned blah blah blah )
engine management - for a simple tune, SAFC2 and MSD BTM will adjust your timing per boost and fine tune your AFR, might want to get a wideband o2 sensor will your at it. After that I would recommend greddy emanage, then the ultimate version (what i really want ), and the SMT6 is great too, I think more expensive. ALl of those but the SAFC/BTM require a laptop too.
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Sold ^
Quote:
Originally Posted by dysk8forlife
supercharger whine>girlfriend whine
Last edited by RedPhoenix; 02-02-2006 at 04:52 AM.
yeah ct-26 bolts right on to the 3sgte manifold. dont get me wrong, it is in no way that EASY. you will also have a problem clearing the oil dipstick. The T3 has the best flow and spool for the most power on the 5sfe. You can find them on a manual turbo ford.
ct26 doesnt have a great high end, although it just wont fall flat on its face, a ct27 or ct20b (same bolt pattern as the ct26) will be great for a lot of power, but the price is a lot higher.
This is why i'm going to the 16g. its good for 350whp as proven on my DSM. and it is he!!atiously efficient with high compression low boost applications. i think it will be wirth it to spend some time fabbing up an adapter... maybe I can sell it. after all 14b, 16g, 18g turbos do well boosting at high compression and lower boost.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
Auto + turbo = NA + manual? Somehow i dont see the manual giving the extra 40-50 extra hp.
me either
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
engine management - for a simple tune, SAFC2 and MSD BTM will adjust your timing per boost and fine tune your AFR, might want to get a wideband o2 sensor will your at it. After that I would recommend greddy emanage, then the ultimate version (what i really want ), and the SMT6 is great too, I think more expensive. ALl of those but the SAFC/BTM require a laptop too.
Well, i have a laptop originally purchased for my DSMLink installed DSM. and i have an LM-1 Wideband. And Road dyno. Tuned my 18g powered DSM to over 400wheel horsepower... of course with alot of wheel spin as she's a FWD. . . I have also turbocharged and tuned a KA24E 240sx. So I am aware of the timing issues associated with blowing an N/A.
About the fuel and timing management:
SAFC II($200) + MSD BTM ($250) = $450
SMT-6 = $450???
Can't you get SMT-6 for about the same price as a MSD BTM combo? And it comes with water/alky control which i plan on using since i'm running a high static N/A compression ratio. Where is a good source for the SMT-6? How does it wire into the 5sfe wiring harness? I would really like to do this right the first time.
BTW, if my auto go out on me then i'll swap a manual into her... it'll be more fun anyway. and my wife likes driving a stick .
yeah ct-26 bolts right on to the 3sgte manifold. dont get me wrong, it is in no way that EASY. you will also have a problem clearing the oil dipstick. The T3 has the best flow and spool for the most power on the 5sfe. You can find them on a manual turbo ford.
HA! I have a 1985 t-bird turbo coup with the t3 (.63 a/r hotside). It is a great turbo. It has over 200,000 miles on it . But the 16g flows more at a lower boost and is more efficient according to the compressor map. But this was going to be my second choice, if I couldn't figure out a way to get the 16g on the head. But since the 16g is free, looks so good on the compressor map for the 5sfe, and the 3sgte mani is so cheap (relatively), I figured I could expend some brainpower engineering an adapter.
Auto + turbo = NA + manual? Somehow i dont see the manual giving the extra 40-50 extra hp.
a manual 5sfe in a good state outruns an auto v6 to 60mph. remember the toyota autos rob a tremendous amount of lower end torque. which absolutley KILLS accerlation.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
^ thats true, but the previous statement wasnt true. But it was an example, i agree with it.. ever so slightly
THe safc + btm can be gotten cheaper, i can get it about $350 together with some proper waiting for the right price.
If you have a laptop, go for the SMT6 or Emanage Ultimate. I would. I dont have a laptop, so im not going that route (atleast not now...)
I would choose a CT20B over a T3 in a heartbeat. But either way, you get the right trim and wastegate, dp etc. its still a good turbo no matter how you look at it.
CT26 is an easy turbo, thats why everyone does it. Thats why im doing it. lol. But in the future, CT27 is looking mighty fine, because im already getting a custom + expensive downpipe for that bolt pattern and posistion.
Sorry i went all crazy on this post.
sum it up, seems like you have the right idea. This car is easy to turbo once all the properties are understood. Keep us updated
a manual 5sfe in a good state outruns an auto v6 to 60mph. remember the toyota autos rob a tremendous amount of lower end torque. which absolutley KILLS accerlation.
Hardcore definetly. Im looking to do a manual swap over summer.. i think Chroniti will help me.. and he will be too.
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. But the 16g flows more at a lower boost and is more efficient according to the compressor map. But this was going to be my second choice, if I couldn't figure out a way to get the 16g on the head. But since the 16g is free, looks so good on the compressor map for the 5sfe, and the 3sgte mani is so cheap (relatively), I figured I could expend some brainpower engineering an adapter.
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