Camry & Solara LoungeDiscussion area for every generation of Toyota's family car, the Toyota Camry. Lexus ES250/300 owners welcome! Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance and more.
A/C compressor seizes up after running for a while
Hello,
I bought my old Camry ('92) a little more than a month ago. Not much after that, the A/C started to behave strangely. I turn it on, it works for a while, but then the compressor starts to seize up and the clutch turns it off. If I turn it on again, it seizes up almost immediatelly. If I let it rest for a few hours, it seems to be back to its old behavior. Also, I have a feeling that higher RPM causes faster seizing.
I took it to a shop and they told me I need a new compressor. Also, the system has R12 in it that should be converted to R134a. I was quoted to $1350. There is no way I can afford it. The most I could spend on it is about $500.
So that $1350 was ~$900 in parts and ~$450 in labor. The new compressor itself would cost ~$670. This is of course the retail price so I figured I migh get it cheaper. Indeed, you can get for less than $400 on ebay and it seems to be the same thing. Also, you can get a used one from junked cars for less than $100.
Besides, the compressor does work for a few minutes, so it might not be totally broken. Maybe it is possible to fix it.
So this is my question: is it possible to fix the car within my $500 budget? My time is quite cheap, so I am willing to invest a lot of work. I have no experience with A/C (but I'm willing to learn) and no special tools. I do have general tools.
i think you can get a compressor for about 100 bux, how is the belt? if its iffy, replace it. but your going to need a machine to vaccume the old freon out. disconnect lines, and tak eit off and put a new one on replace belt and lines, charge the system and your set
i think you can get a compressor for about 100 bux, how is the belt? if its iffy, replace it. but your going to need a machine to vaccume the old freon out. disconnect lines, and tak eit off and put a new one on replace belt and lines, charge the system and your set
Yeah but finding R-12 is going to be the problem. They quit using that stuff in like 92 or 93. The prices are outrageous for it. Most shops want to charge you to retrofit it to 134a. and he has already discovered how much tath costs.
__________________
Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
I have an engine tht jsut come for my sister to replace the one in her 92 SE V6. It came with A/C power steering and alternator. We have talked aobut maybe trying to sell some of the extra stuff off of it so she can try to recoup some of it.
DOnt know all the details of the car but it is a 92 3vz and it has somewhere between 35 and 5k miles on it supposedly. If yours is a 4cyl then it may not work we would have to compare part numbers on yours and the one I have or find some way to cross reference it.
__________________
Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
I have an engine tht jsut come for my sister to replace the one in her 92 SE V6. It came with A/C power steering and alternator. We have talked aobut maybe trying to sell some of the extra stuff off of it so she can try to recoup some of it.
DOnt know all the details of the car but it is a 92 3vz and it has somewhere between 35 and 5k miles on it supposedly. If yours is a 4cyl then it may not work we would have to compare part numbers on yours and the one I have or find some way to cross reference it.
Mine is a 4 cyl. I have the exact part number, but not with me. (I'm at work... er... I mean I am supposed to work right now ) I'll post it tonight.
How hard is it to do the retrofit yourself? How expensive? Do I need special tools?
I ahve heard of some kits that you can jsut replace the schraeder valve in the high pressure and low pressure connections and then there is a R-12 replacement that you can use. It is not R-134a but it is not R-12. Youwold just need to have the sytem evacuated before you start tearing i apart.
I will check the part nimber on the one I have maybe it will match up, dont count on it since it is a V6 but you never know.
__________________
Chris
PLEASE DO NOT GET RID OF THE OLD TN AS WE KNOW IT.
It doesn't seem to be all that hard. He had exactly the same problem. But at other places I've read that R134a will not work well in an R12 system because even the hoses are not capable for holding R134a because it's molecules are smaller. Some say you have to replace every part that contains rubber.
I wouldn't care but my poor kids will not understand that they have to sweat becuase dad can't make enough money.
I think that your compressor is seizing because of lack of lubrication. I wold try to get it evecuated then charge it with a can of R134a oil and about two cans of 134a refrigerant. Thats what i would try before replacing the compressor. Oh and if you still need one then go get one freom the junk yard. I thought that they usually cost about $150 -$170 at kragen.
I think that your compressor is seizing because of lack of lubrication. I wold try to get it evecuated then charge it with a can of R134a oil and about two cans of 134a refrigerant. Thats what i would try before replacing the compressor. Oh and if you still need one then go get one freom the junk yard. I thought that they usually cost about $150 -$170 at kragen.
You probably mean first I should flush the system, change the seals, etc. I mean if I just have it evacuated and then fill with R134a, it won't work well. It's an old R12 system.
I just bought a new/rebuilt compressor on ebay for $75 plus $15 shipping. I converted from R12 to R134a. I replaced the accumulator(dryer). I flushed the evaporator and the condensor of all the old crap oil. I used Ester oil.
With the conversion I bought new fittings for the plumbing to fill it and screwed those on. I also bought new Orings for the compressor inlet/outlets.
If all goes well you might be able to do it for less than $200 inluding the refrigerant.
Better you read up on it on the well known A/C auto websites.
Also find the correct capacities for your oil and coolant. Don't mix R12 and R134a oils and refrigerants. They must be pure or else it will completely screw-up.
So I asked a few other people and this what I ended up doing: took the car to my mechanic to evacuate the R12. Then I bought an "id interdynamics Recharging and Retrofit Kit" and recharged the system without opening it. The instructions on the kit says, it is compatible with traces of R12 and R12 oil (which will just collect in the receiver/dryer without doing any good or harm).
Now my A/C works and the compressor doesn't seize up. I don't know how long, but so far I spent less than $100.
good job... if you do end up needing a compressor in the future, you should get one from a 94-96 5sfe. that was it will be r134a already and still bolt up to the block the same way.
DONT DO THIS YOURSELF IF U HAVE NO EXPERICANCE. regrigerant is very dangerous, it can cause frost bite and if it gets in ur eye it can get u blind if it enters your eye... i dont think u have to convert to r134a . all u need to do is remove the compressor with a new one and evacuate the system by creating vaccum for 30 mins and then insert the r12 and you should be all good. but leave this for sumone that has done this many times cause this isnt a easy job and need specail tools and equipment to do this.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.