replacing spark plugs

[simplyxtrippin]

i have a 92 v6 xle. im plannin on changing the sparkplugs this weekend but it seems that the intake manifold is blocking the 3 spark plugs in the back. do i have to remove the manifold to get to the spark plugs or is there an easier way?

[Bugmenot]

No need to remove the intake .

But u need a lot of short extensions and a short handle rachet.

You remove 2 spark plugs from passanger side, and the last one from the driver side.

remember it is pain on the ass to remove those 10mm bolt holding down each coils.
It is better for u to stand on a stool to get more leverage accessing those plugs. It is hard on ur back after spending 2 hr remove and install those plugs.

[simplyxtrippin]

i don't think my 3vzfe have that kind of coils. but im not quite sure.

[marc780]

I can see why people remove the plenum to get to the right bank but i guess its not impossible if you have the right tools. Without removing plenum, I found The coil pack on # 4 has to be removed first, the pcv hose too. And there are two wires bolted to the plenum with a nut which are in the way and have to be removed. Then you can access the tough one, #5 plug behind the plenum. I accessed #4 and #5 from the passenger side, leaning on the fender which i covered with a towel first.

Harbor freight has a long long spark plug socket that is tailor made for this and it is $5. I found my sockets are either too long or too short even when used together. Its not fun but can be done.

Re the notorious #5 plug it took me about 30 minutes for this one plug. I used a regular foam insert spark plug socket, one small 3/8" extension and one wobble socket adaptor (which i could have gotten by without, but it made the extension just long enough).

And the most important tip: tape the sockets and extension together so they dont pull apart! I taped them together with duct tape and pulled on them to make sure they would not slip apart. Because the last thing i wanted to be doing is fishing for a spark plug socket back there where you can barely reach.

First i unclipped the wire from the coil, hope you have small hands like i do for this. Then i unscrewed the 10 mm bolt holding it onto the valve cover. I used a 1/4" socket wrench, a box wrench will work if you are very patient. I had to hugg the engine for this, i used my left hand to hold the socket wrench while i lay over the engine and looked through the gap by the plenum tubes and EGR. Then i stuck my wrench around back over the little bolt, and i could see the bolt and socket through the gap. Not dignified but effective lol
Undo the 10 mm bolt, when it gets loose grab it with your hand to do the last few turns so you dont drop it and lose it. Then twist the coil a little and it will pop up and out. Dont try to turn it at first, I pulled it straight out of its hole and then removed it plug side first.

Then I snaked the taped-together socket and extension round the back and slid it in the plug hole and over the plug. Then i reached behind with the socket wrench and pressed it on to the extension. The socket wrench should be shorter rather than longer, because if its too long you wont have much room to swing it.

Theres not much clearance to swing the socket wrench but there is enough, barely, but you will be going 2 or 3 wrench clicks at a time. Then when i was sure the spark plug was out i unclipped the socket wrench and pulled it out of the way. Then i pulled the sockets extensions and the plug up and out.
Antiseize on the new plug (i use anti seize on everything!) and it went in even easier than it came out. And i made sure to get it tight, its not easy to tell how tight you are getting it when you only have a couple socket clicks to feel it.
And then replace the coil - slide it in square end first and then stick its nose in the hole and drop it in. And then snake in the 10 mm bolt , for God's sake dont drop it - (if you do drop it borrow one from one of the front coils while you drive to the store for another bolt) - and the bolt surprisingly easy to line up with its hole. I turned it in by hand as far as possible and then used the 1/4" socket wrench with the 10mm socket to tighten it.

Rubber gloves anyone? My hands still hurt - from cuts from snaking them around in there. A clean engine to work on is desirable too - but i saved a lotta money doing this and thats what counts.

[Axel Kain]

well, it might help if someone with a 92 V6 XLE told ya, you will need...
-3/8" wratchet
-Universal (wobble)
-a 6" extension
-a 3" extension
-a spark plug socket ( cant remember, but may need to use a deep well socket (19 I think))
!!- an extendable magnet!!!

its not as hard as you might think...
just get the front 3 done first, then go for the passenger rear,-tis the easiest of corse.
just pop off the plug wire (pull on the tab in the middle NOT THE WIRE GOING into the tab). then put the 6" w/ socket down the plug tube, turn the shaft w/ fingers till it slides onto the plug. get the universal w/ or w/o 3" extension, and wratchet it out, if the plug dosent come out w/ the socket use the extendable magnet (it helped me many times!).

center plug, you have to reach a bit more, but try and get your sholders and head over the intake plenum(legs on passenger side) reach with left hand between valve cover, plenum bottom, and fire wall (easy to do) and un plug the wire (it takes a bit of maneuvering to get the wire just out of the way, but its doable) again with the 6" and socket down the tube, get the socket set on the plug, and use universal then 3" to wratchet it out.

final plug, bit of a pain but if you can work with your eyes closed (you can look at where everything is then close eyes and do it) its a big help. body on passenger side, lean over as close to the firewall, and towards right side as possible, reach right hand under the throttlebody, and over to the wire (easy to do, and plenty of room for wire to come out) then do the removal and install.
mostly the odd angles, and leaning is the hardest part.

good luck and enjoy saving $$$ !!!