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Old 04-14-2006, 10:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation trouble, trouble and trouble with 3vz-fe

Hi, guys, I'm failed to replace my timing belt today. I got follwing problems:
1). REMOVING PS DRIVE BELT.
Manual says :loose the 2 bolts and remove the drive belt. But after I loosen the
bolts,enven took the 2 bolts and small metal plate off, the belt still stuck there. I took
it off after I remove the crank pulley.
2). REMOVE ENGINE RH MOUNTING BRACKET
There are 2 bolts on it.after I unbolted,the bracket can not be taken out. because those
2 bolts are so long ,especially right hand one. it has an angle, I can't take it out and
it also has something just ride above the timing belt. I didn't find the way to remove the
bracket.

3). INSTALL NO.1 TIMING BELT COVER
I was hurt so much on it. it took my more than 2 hour to install it.Finally, I put it on, but
I really don't know how. It 's so difficult to match the upper edge,it always stay outside
when I tried to match the left lower side bolt.
4).INSTALL PS DRIVE BELT
Like what I said on 1st question,I had to install it when I installed the crank pulley,but
I turned the crank pully counter clockwise 1/5 round(I think)when I put the belt on. Will
that be a problem with the timing? I haven't tried to start my car because I got a big
mistake on my alternator adjust bolt. I broke it when I tryied to tighten the alternator
belt.The reason is I tightened the lock bolt first with a little bit unbalance .

So,as you know, I failed to replace my timing belt, wish somebody give my some
answers about my questions, and also hope my story will give a little help to somebody
who is gonna try to do same thing.

Oh, by the way, anyone knows where I can get the alternator adjusting bolt(M8-1.25,
11.5 mm long). I checked Lowes, autozone and advance auto parts, but they don't have
it.

Thank you very much to read my long ugly writing and hope to get some from you guys.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1, Maybe you loosened a wrong bolt that you thought was the power steering pivot or clamp bolt, but the bolt was to something else...(also remember you can download the part of the service manual you need from this forum, its at the top of forums in the dark grey area)...You should just have to loosen these two bolts. and then pull on the belt and the pump itself will move and this shows you which way to push the pump to make the belt loose enough to remove.

2. Maybe you should just unbolt the mount from the engine. Or Alot of times you can move the engine itself after you've unbolted the mount. Put a floor jack under the oil pan (not under the drain plug! the pan), place a piece of wood between the jack arm and the oil pan to cushion it! And gently jack up the engine just a little bit. This may give you enough clearance to get those bolts out.

3. Sometimes you can use a small screwdriver to align the holes. Or remove something thats in the way. You can also buy some bolts the same size as the ones that hold the cover on, but longer, and cut the heads off and file a screwdriver slot in. Or just use studs. Put these in one hole to help you align the cover and to put in one bolt, then remove the stud.

4. See #1. Cranking the engine counter clockwise (backwards) is a big no-no, because this can possibly cause the timing belt to jump time on the crank pulley or camshaft pulley.
You may want to remove the covers again (argg) and double check your timing alignment. Then again, its not an interference engine, so id maybe at least try to start it and maybe everything is ok and it starts and runs fine.

the bolt you need is a standard size bolt. You can get one of these at Home Depot, i would think lowe's would have had one too. Just make sure the thread is correct, you might have to buy several different thread types. And its ok to buy one too long and then cut it off and grind it smooth. If you have a pick-a-part junkyard in your area just go there and find a toyota with a similar engine or one thats even close, and chances are you will find your bolt.

Last edited by marc780; 04-15-2006 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you,marc780. This is the picture of the 2 bolts I unbolted and even took off. I think they are the stuff of the manual says. But,the PS belt can not be got off except removed the crank pully. thank you.

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Old 04-17-2006, 10:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know anything about your engine, but you seem to have an awful lot of oil in your engine compartment! Has it always been that way? My engine compartment doesn't look like that, and I never clean it.
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes, I think that's because the front valve cover has leaked for long time. I just replaced front one and will see the result.
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Come on guys,give me hand please. The PS belt is so loose after I installed it.Look at the picture above,I tried to adjust the bolt (red circled),but seems the bolt is not going to the bottom position, just stay at Middle positon of the hole.How can I adjust it to the previous position.

Thank you.
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Srry man know nothing about the timing belt...maybe time for a professonal?????
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Old 04-18-2006, 12:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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With that much grime on there you might have to get rough with it. I would try heating it up to get it to move but there's a lot of oil there that might catch fire.

Is there an update? Have you tried starting the engine yet? Or are you just trying to get that PS pump straightened out?

One thing I can tell you for sure, you need to get that oil off all the rubber components, because it will break them down. I saw a Camry come into our shop, the front end was a total write-off. All the bushings were gone, the tires would actually shift visibly in the wheel well whenever you hit the brakes. There was an oil leak that the owner ignored for too long and it took out every rubber part under the engine. Half shaft CV boots, inner tie rod boots, all the strut rod bushings and sway bar bushings or whatev. There was no rubber under that car anymore.

Just get a couple cans of brake cleaner and go to town. It will also be easier to fix your timing belt if the engine compartment is cleaner.
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Old 04-18-2006, 12:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novice_cardude
With that much grime on there you might have to get rough with it. I would try heating it up to get it to move but there's a lot of oil there that might catch fire.

Is there an update? Have you tried starting the engine yet? Or are you just trying to get that PS pump straightened out?

One thing I can tell you for sure, you need to get that oil off all the rubber components, because it will break them down. I saw a Camry come into our shop, the front end was a total write-off. All the bushings were gone, the tires would actually shift visibly in the wheel well whenever you hit the brakes. There was an oil leak that the owner ignored for too long and it took out every rubber part under the engine. Half shaft CV boots, inner tie rod boots, all the strut rod bushings and sway bar bushings or whatev. There was no rubber under that car anymore.

Just get a couple cans of brake cleaner and go to town. It will also be easier to fix your timing belt if the engine compartment is cleaner.
Thank you very much. I'll post the update picture tomorrow.Going to clean all rubbers as well.
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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This is the update. see the bolt position is different from the previous.I try try to push the metal plate(what it called)from bottom to top and from left to right,but it does move.And you can see the PS belt is not tight enough. Any secret? Thank you.






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Old 04-20-2006, 10:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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are u sure you have the correct belt? compare it to the old one your replacing and see if its bigger.
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Last edited by 95camguy; 04-20-2006 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 04-20-2006, 02:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, you need some good leverage to budge the ps pump, I did my timing belt and water pump last week and that was one of the worst parts, just take a long screwdriver and make sure you dont gouge any soft prats out with it, wedge it in that bracket and try and push that bolt back down the way it was, it will budge just be patient with it.

Have you replaced your water pump?

And your engine will not run right at all if the crank pulley moved before the belt tensioner was installed (it will be out of time).

BTW in case you didnt know you need a vice and an allen key to install the tensioner, compress it in the vice and put the key through the holes, make sure you can pull the key out when everything is good to go.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thank you for your kind replies. Belt was bought from dealewr,it's OEM.And I didn't remove water pump and timing belt. I started my car, but it looks running good. I'll keep one eye on it and let know results.
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Old 04-20-2006, 09:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This is a little far-fetched but it may work.for getting leverage on the pump,u might be able to place your scissor jack bettween the pump and a rigid spot on the body ,and start unscewing the jack.it is slow but generates a lot of force.your hydaulic ack might also work if you are not using it already.
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