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Old 04-21-2006, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Diagnostic terminals goopy

Hey all....

I went to pull some codes off the diagnostic box and when I opened the cover, the terminals are covered in some kind of goop or grease. What is this stuff?

Oh yeah... this is on a 1MZ, in case it matters....
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Never mind... must be dielectric grease.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^you got it.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok... so what's the safest way to remove it? I tried to use a paperclip to connect TE1 to E1, but I'm not getting a connection (my CEL doesn't blink).

I suppose I could try using a small screwdriver to wipe/scrape the contacts, but there has to be a better/easier way.

Would electrical contact cleaner work?
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanman75
Ok... so what's the safest way to remove it? I tried to use a paperclip to connect TE1 to E1, but I'm not getting a connection (my CEL doesn't blink).

I suppose I could try using a small screwdriver to wipe/scrape the contacts, but there has to be a better/easier way.

Would electrical contact cleaner work?
If you can actually feel it making contact, I'd say look elsewhere. I've used LOTS of worse conductors and never had a problem with the grease blocking the flow.
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Old 04-21-2006, 01:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the goop isnt bothering it... it must be something else... that goop is OK with connections.
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hmmm... when there aren't any stored codes and TE1 and E1 are jumped, the CEL should just blink continuously, right?
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Old 04-22-2006, 01:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You need a scanner to pull the codes on a 1MZ-FE.

Jumping TE1 and E1, does not work.
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Well, that explains it. Thanks. I actually did drop by the Autozone and plugged in. No codes. Now to figure out why I failed emissions without codes...
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Old 04-22-2006, 03:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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how hot/warm was your engine when you took the test?

even if you had warmed up your engine good before hand, if you had to wait for them to put the car on the rollers, then it can make a big difference- tell them to run your car ON the rollers for a couple of minutes before plugging you in for the test

as well, excess carbon in your intake/engine/exhaust can cause extra emissions without throwing a CEL- you will really only get a CEL if your o2 sensors are gone or are getting extreme readings such as a clogged cat
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It was warmed up. Right off the highway, engine coolant temp 180. Went right onto the dyno. High HC and High CO = Fuel Mix Rich. So.....

- vacuum leak (can't hear one)
- leaky injector(s) (I want to leave this until last)
- ECU fried (not likely, since it does seem to be operating normally otherwise)
- bad cat (not sure how to test it)
- misbehaving O2 sensor(s) (need to stick them on a VOM)

Car has new plugs (Denso Iridium), new air filter, new PCV. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body, gave it 2 seafoam treatments (which also showed me a small leak in the exhaust manifold!), ran a tank of Techron Fuel SYSTEM cleaner.

I was going to just R&R all the O2 sensors since I've read the service life is 60,000-100,000 miles (my Cam has 220,000), unless there's something else I should be considering.

Any other thoughts?
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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o2 sensors likely

pull the EFI fuse to release the codes, then put it back in... if the engine light comes back on., then you know something is actually wrong.
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks Zoni... but I forgot to mention that the CEL didn't come on at any time. The only reason I put the scanner on was to see if there were any stored codes that didn't light the CEL.

Front (left bank) O2 is dead easy to get to, and I suppose the one near the cat will be fairly straightforward. What's the easiest way to get at the right bank sensor? From up top or from below? Any gotchas?
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the sub o2 sensor isnt too important... just worry about the main 2.
from the bottom.
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