Help!. Changing Timing Belt But Cant Get Dam crank pulley and Crank Pully Bolt Off

[tousi]

I'm in the process of changing the tming belt in my 92 toyota camry le 4cyl. but i cant get the dam CRANKSHAFT PULLEY off. I went to checkers and and rented a crank pulley removal kit to get it off but the wholes on my crank pulley are not big enough and not tapped to use it. Is there a special kit that i have to use? Also Is there a special way of taking the CRANK PULLEY BOLT off as well? I've tried to get it off but the dam pulley was moving with it also. lmk your inputs thanks.

[DrXenon]

One method is to brace the wrench against something solid (say, the A-arm of the suspension) and turn the engine over. The Toyota-approved method involves buying a special service tool that fits into the holes, which stops the pulley from turning.

[tousi]

Would the method of placing a wrench against something solid and turning the engine do any harm to the engine at all? i dont really wont to risk it if that the case. And how do i get the dam pulley off?

[DrXenon]

I've never actually done it, but I was reading about how other people have done it because I have to do mine in a few thousand km. I wouldn't think you could damage the engine - the crankshaft is a jpretty beefy piece of metal designed to take massive loads. OTOH, if you sheared the head off the bolt you would have a massive problem on your hands.

[asianfetish]

I was reluctant to use the force of the engine to do this too. It was a last ditch effort as time was ticking. If you do go this route, pull the efi fuse or disable from starting some way. As far as getting the pulley off, worry about the bolt. Not one of those four holes has threads? If thats the case, you're going to have to figure out what size of tap to get and make some threads. That thing looks like it might be rusted on pretty good, so carefully prying with two prybars will be futile. Only other thing I can think of, is to get two bolts small enough to go through the holes and if possible put a nut and washer on the back. Probably not enough room. Just another thought.

[EBR]

Originally Posted by asianfetish

I was reluctant to use the force of the engine to do this too. It was a last ditch effort as time was ticking. If you do go this route, pull the efi fuse or disable from starting some way. As far as getting the pulley off, worry about the bolt. Not one of those four holes has threads? If thats the case, you're going to have to figure out what size of tap to get and make some threads. That thing looks like it might be rusted on pretty good, so carefully prying with two prybars will be futile.

What he said...................

[ROBS]

For the crank pulley bolt, you just find a STRONG screwdriver (it will bend a bit so dont use your best one) that will fit through one of the holes on the pulley. Then you need a long/strong prybar and of course your ratchet w/socket.

Now, you got the screwdriver in the hole, so next you take the socket and put it on the pulley bolt...
next, take the prybar and put it inbetween the socket and the screwdriver...
Now turn the crank with the ratchet until it is in the position where you can get the best leverage...
Now push on the prybar while pulling on the ratchet...as hard as you can, its on tight...if it dont budge, try harder until it does.

Tips:
You might need a long pipe or breaker bar to slip over the ratchet for more leverage.
Try pushing on the prybar with your foot while yanking on the breaker bar/ratchet with both hands (thats what I had to do).

For the crank pulley, once you have the bolt off, what you need is called a harmonic balancer puller/vibration damper puller (same thing, different names)...only use this type of puller on the crank pulley. Cheap, mine was $20 to buy, very handy to have around. Then, you need two long bolts that will thread through two of the holes on the crank pulley...I just found a short bolt that would thread, then took it to the parts store and asked for two of the same, but longer (you want about 3 - 4 inches long, but no longer).

Hope this helps.

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by tousi

Would the method of placing a wrench against something solid and turning the engine do any harm to the engine at all? i dont really wont to risk it if that the case. And how do i get the dam pulley off?

it is safe for my 93 4cyl 5S-FE. i put a rachet wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt two times, and both were successful, just pull out all four spark plug coils, turn the ignition key for 0.5 seconds. first time did it, but timing mark was off by 1 tooth, the engine starts, but lost power, then have to do it again,

[88 LE]

To remove the crank pulley bolt:

1. Impact wrench.

2. Breaker bar and starter method described above.

3. Wedge a prybar between 2 teeth of the flywheel/flexplate.



Use a bolt on type puller to remove the crank pulley. Do not use a jaw type puller.

The bolts for the timing belt covers are the right size and thread pitch for the holes on the crank pulley. However they might not be long enough to use with the puller.

[Master Rufo]

Ok I did the timing belt on my 5sfe, used the jaw type puller a friend of mine said would be fine on these since the holes arent threaded on these pullies. I also used the quick startup method to loosen the bolt. These motors aren't interference motors so there's no risk of damage. But now I got a new problem. How do I get the pulley to not move while I tighten the crank pulley bolt down to 80 ft lbs?

[ROBS]

Originally Posted by Master Rufo

Ok I did the timing belt on my 5sfe, used the jaw type puller a friend of mine said would be fine on these since the holes arent threaded on these pullies. I also used the quick startup method to loosen the bolt. These motors aren't interference motors so there's no risk of damage. But now I got a new problem. How do I get the pulley to not move while I tighten the crank pulley bolt down to 80 ft lbs?

I used the same method I outlined above to take it off and to torque it back down. Its how they say to do it in the haynes manual for the 3SFE. I guess you could also jam something in the flywheel/flexplate to stop the engine from turning.

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by Master Rufo

Ok I did the timing belt on my 5sfe, used the jaw type puller a friend of mine said would be fine on these since the holes arent threaded on these pullies. I also used the quick startup method to loosen the bolt. These motors aren't interference motors so there's no risk of damage. But now I got a new problem. How do I get the pulley to not move while I tighten the crank pulley bolt down to 80 ft lbs?

i used the pipe chain wrench to hold the crankshaft, and tight the crankshaft pulley bolt back, i was told as the crankshaft turn with engine speed, it will be tighten more by itself.

[ROBS]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

i used the pipe chain wrench to hold the crankshaft, and tight the crankshaft pulley bolt back, i was told as the crankshaft turn with engine speed, it will be tighten more by itself.

Hmm...I dont see how that works, but I would torque it down even if that is true...the torque spec is there for a reason...its definatly a bolt you dont want coming loose.

[zoni]

i use a prybar wedged into the flywheel/flexplate. and incredible force on a breaker bar on the bolt. after its off, i used a 2 jaw puller. i wish i had a 3 jaw, but i dont. and i dont have a screw in puller, that is optimal.

[tracyf]

I removed the starter (15 minutes) from my wife's 1990 Camry and inserted a prybar into the flywheel teeth. Then you can use a breaker bar to remove and torque wrench to put back the crank bolt. And as they mentioned, $15-20 gets you the right tool for the pulley removal - harmonic balancer puller. I actually got the loaner tool for this from AutoZone - and since it had more bells and whistles and a hard plastic case as compared to the one they sell for $13, I am just going to keep this one for good - they told me if you choose to you can.