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Old 04-26-2006, 04:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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anybody have manual for 3vzfe

the stikied manual only have the one for the 1mzfe. plz, if you have a manual (hopefully in pdf file) let me know. thank you.
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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there be verrrry few, but if you need help just let us know, and most guys here can help ya out!

edit....sorry thought you ment manual trans.
yah get a haynes manual, its very helpful.
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Old 04-26-2006, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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im plannin on changing my sparkplugs and it says to remove the ignition coil first. why would you need to remove the ignition coil just to replace the sparkplugs? would this process be different with the 3vzfe? the picture form the manual seems like the ignition coil is right on the ignition wires. is that right? i've never seen anything like it.

another question, my CEL is on which gives me a code "71", EGR system. the EGR is also different from the manual. what do you recommend doing with my EGR? just replace it? but that'll be kinda expensive. i've read from other post about VSV. what does this do? and what can i do to it to fix my egr problem? does the 3vzfe even have a VSV?
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Old 04-26-2006, 10:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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By the sounds of it..it's talking about individual coil packs, which are used on the 1MZ-FE V6.
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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another question. i'm changing my coolant. the guide said to 'bleed the cooling system'. what does this mean? when i changed the coolant on the previous car, i would just remove and replace the coolant. and that is that. can some plz explain this procedure.
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

Bleeding the coolant involves loosening a bleeder bolt on my 1990 2VZ-FE to allow the air to be forced out (coolant chasing the air up and out until slight coolant flow is seen from the bleeder). On mine, this bolt is located on the top side - engine end of the top radiator hose - on what resembles a little thermostat housing (but is not). Without bleeding this, supposedly a substantial amount of air is trapped in the system - and air space allows steam to build up (which is much hotter/damaging than heated fluid). I hope this helps.
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

As far as your EGR problem, I am no expert, but replacing your PCV valve would be an inexpensive first thing to do to try and correct the problem as far as I understand it.
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Old 04-28-2006, 12:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracyf
Bleeding the coolant involves loosening a bleeder bolt on my 1990 2VZ-FE to allow the air to be forced out (coolant chasing the air up and out until slight coolant flow is seen from the bleeder). On mine, this bolt is located on the top side - engine end of the top radiator hose - on what resembles a little thermostat housing (but is not). Without bleeding this, supposedly a substantial amount of air is trapped in the system - and air space allows steam to build up (which is much hotter/damaging than heated fluid). I hope this helps.
this is done while the your filling up, right? and engine off.
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Old 04-28-2006, 03:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Correct - done with engine off and cool while filling up - air seeks the hole of the bleeder bolt (which is at the highest point).
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