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This is the second time this has happened to me now. I'm driving regularly and the car shuts down as I'm slowing down or at a stop...First time (a few months ago) I had my music up, but the amp was only a 200W RMS one or so, and the engine cut as I was turning and I hit a curb. Second time, about a few days ago, I had the music up, but this time with a 1000W RMS amp, and my engine cuts at the red light.
A couple days after that, I'm driving, and as I slow down and enter a parking lot, my engine hesitates, the rpms drop from 1000 to about 300, then back up again, wanting to die. I shut it off, start it back up, and its fine.
So I just want to know what could be causing this. My guess is that my alternator is being stressed by my sound system. Thoughts? Thanks.
I would ask the Audio gurus here about a capacitor to keep the alternator from being bogged down so much. A huge load on the alternator will slow your RPMs. As you know if your RPMs drop too low the car will stall.
definitely do NOT look into a capacitor. a cap will actually put MORE strain onto your system. u said you have a 1000wRMS amp... what brand and model is that? and have you upgraded your alternator? if not, i can almost guarantee it is the alternator that is going and will be gone very shortly!
Positive battery connection. The lower part of the alunimum section was hitting a ground piece of the crise contol module (din't have a cruise cover back then)
Do you still have the same problems without the audio system because it might be something else causing the problems unless you are sure its the amplifier.
Put the charging system on a tester, maybe you need a greater capacity alternator? Id turn on the stereo and put a VOM on it at least. At idle, A VOM applied to the battery should read no less than 13.9 volts. But thats just a cursory check, although you may have already answered your own question.
definitely do NOT look into a capacitor. a cap will actually put MORE strain onto your system. u said you have a 1000wRMS amp... what brand and model is that? and have you upgraded your alternator? if not, i can almost guarantee it is the alternator that is going and will be gone very shortly!
Sorry bro but you are misinforming people about capacitors. Capacitors have no draw on the alternator therefor they cannot put more strain on the system. Think of a capacitor as a battery which fills up when energy is available and discharges when the energy is low keeping the alternator from bogging down so much. I know this because it is my job.
Put the charging system on a tester, maybe you need a greater capacity alternator? Id turn on the stereo and put a VOM on it at least. At idle, A VOM applied to the battery should read no less than 13.9 volts. But thats just a cursory check, although you may have already answered your own question.
yea, i have a voltmeter built into my inline fuse and the voltage seems fine at idle. it does drop slightly whenever the bass hits though, how much it drops while im driving i dont know
A weak alternator or a slipping alternator belt can cause the symptoms you describe, but there are other things that can cause it.
Try cleaning the idle air control valve inside the throttle body. Do a search for "idle air control valve". A dirty idle air control valve can also cause the symptoms you describe.
Another thing that can cause what you describe is water in the fuel. Try a couple of cans of gas line antifreeeze or gas dryer and run the current tank down as low as you dare and then get fuel at another station than the one you used for the current fill-up.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 05-11-2006 at 12:06 PM.
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