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sigh...i post this sad sad message cos i probably screwed up thinking i couldnt possibly screw up doing something so simple.
While i was rotating my tires i said why not let some of the older brake fluid out cos its been in the system for so long. So i unbolted the brake line at the caliper and let it drip for a bit. My biggest mistake was perhaps pressing the brakes with the car off to squeeze out a bit more fluid. I did this at all 4 corners, and eventually even with light presses of the pedal the brake became stiff. I believe i bolted everything back on correctly and securely (guess i'll check when there is more light). But upon restart i pumped the brakes to get the fluid back into the calipers/lines and it just keeps bottoming out. Is there air in my system now...? What can i do to fix it? if i have the brakes go almost to the floor the car will stop in gear...but no way would i feel safe to drive it on the road. I am just hoping it is a loose connection. If i do need a brake bleed kit or something then i'll get it...i just want my car to be able to stop!
Sounds like the system is loosing pressure somewhere. I would check to make sure everyhting is secure and check for air. You will probably have to bleed the system.
A brake beeding kit will come in handy anyways later. You can do it yourself now.
Yes, you have air in the system The brakes need to be bled before driving the car. Here's how to do it if you have a friend to help.
Remove master cylinder cap.
Go to one caliper. Have a friend pump the brake pedal 3 times. One the third time they should hold the pedal to the floor.
Loosen the caliper bleeder valve for about a second and tighten again.
Repeat this at least 10 times. Keep an eye on the master cylinder. DO NOT let the fluid run low. Keep it filled.
Do this for all brake cylinders. After doing all four cylinders see how the brake pedal feels. If it still isn't quite right, repeat.
If you don't have a friend to help you can always get a brake bleeder kit.
Any good auto parts store should have one.
Again, DO NOT drive the car until all of the air is out of the system.
ahh FAK....thanks guys.
I'll grab myself a friend and a brake bleeder kit. I was thinking i could crawl to midas but i would probably crash to my death not being able to stop at the end of the hill that i'd have to go down in order to get to them.
So Dave G - the master cylinder cap...is that just the brake fluid reservior cap?
The caliper bleeder valve would be what i loosened in the first place to let the fluid out right? its just the bolt that holds the brake line onto the caliper itself.? and i only need to loosen it a turn or two just so some fluid drips right?
by Run low you mean the min line or the actual bottom of the tank?
OK 10 times each. thats...40 times...lol wow.
Sorry for so many questions i just want to be sure. I'll be consulting my haynes manual too probably.
Thanks again!
good question. i checked and the fluid was a little above the min line but there's a ton of fluid below that min line so i doubt that is the problem. I have to get some brake fluid tomorrow too. was it DOT 4 brake fluid?
First of all bro.. just to make sure I'm clear.. You've been bleeding by pulling the brake hose off of the brake caliper? If that's the case, that would defintely be the reason you have major air in the system.
The proper was is to use a.. I use a 8mm (not sure) socket to loosen the bleeder valve on the caliber. it's this silver nipple that's covered with a little rubber head. Then, use the aforementioned bleeding instructions.. They should be right as I didn't read them.. I wanted to reply as fast as I could to make sure you are doing it right.
As far as what type of fluid.. DOT3 but I like to use Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid I forgot how much the big bottle costs but the little bottle cost me about 3.14 with tax.
cost isnt a large issue as long as my car works! lolz
yeah i sure hope its an easy fix.
okay i was bleeding by pulling the brake hose off the brake caliper just as if i was going to change the brake lines to stainless steel (but in my case i'm not).
OK i know about the nipple covered with a little rubber head you're talking about. That is the bleeder valve?
Ah DOT3 i'll double check that just in case. Since i'm not sure what fluid is in my system now, is it bad to mix? I have brembo drilled rotors and i do drive FREAKING hard and constantly mash on the brakes so a better fluid would be good. I'll just let the rest of this unknown fluid out i guess.
If I'm not mistaken, the master cylinder rubber cap thing says that DOT3 should be used. But, yes, that little nipple with the rubber top is the bleeder valve you need to use to properly bleed your brakes. Pulling off the brake hose is only "bleeding" the air out of the brake system up to that point. From there on forward, you still have air in the caliper.
I'd buy the big bottle of brake fluid because that sounds like you'll be bleeding a good bit Sorry that happened to you bro but you know what? Chalk it up to experience because if you didn't screw up, how else would you learn?
(Just changed my struts.. Now I know why Toyota says to not remove the lower spring seat. Incorrect placement on the new struts had my Cam pullin' to the right "like a drunken whore".. Figured out the PROPER way to have it adjusted and now she's just right!)
P.S. Don't know about mixing but why take the chance? Get yourself two big ass bottles and flush the bitch out. Valvoline synthetic DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid should be more than capable to handle your braking setup SYNTHETIC baby.. it's where it's at
Actually you can get a fair bleed by removing the BLEEDERS (not the lines) one at a time and letting the fluid run a bit.........BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE PEDAL And keep the reservior filled. (I dont recomend this but it will get you home in an emergency) Every time you pump the pedal with a bleeder open it sucks air back into the system. Get a kit(or a piece of the right size tubing on the bleeder valve and submerge it in a container of brake fluid) or get a friend to help. And follow what Dave G posted.
Be careful when loosening the bleeder valve the first time and make sure the wrench is the right one because those little buggers will round off easily or break off! If that happens you'll have the fun of learning to change out a wheel cylinder. (and how to replace brake pads/shoes at the same time)
Good luck with this.
mmm thanks for all this advice...i cant believe im learning so much about brakes. I have changed pads/rotors before...so im not an exact n00b at this..but yeah i figured after i unbolted the first brake line that i was in for a treat...lol
And yeah i'll go all synthetic. I'll just bleed the whole system out. I've been meaning to do something like this anyways. is this going to take a good part of 2 or 3 hours? lol
I'll keep in mind to be gentle on the bleeders. I pray i wont damage any of them!!!
I just went out to the garage to pump the brakes again and see if any more fluid leaked...i dont see any extra leakage besides what was there before (dribble from the left over fluid) and the master cylinder still looks like it was the same level when i last left it.
All i know is that the brake pedal still goes to the floor continuously even while the car is off. so it's gotta be air! I hope autzone will be open tomorrow...
advance is open on mon...(CRAZY!!!) essentially they are right...-step by step-
1-do the whole jacking and pulling of wheel, make sure you have plenty of fluid in resivoir., and cap is ON.
2-get friend to pump 3-THREE-3 times only, you, with hand wrench in hand....open bleader valve(little silver nipple) between 1/4-1/2 turn, or at least until it spits/sputters a bit, then quickly close it (but not too tightly, just closed)
3-do step 2 until you have a little jet of fluid coming out (like a tiny water fontin)
4-progress to next wheel, and remember after about 2 or 3 step 2's check/fill resivoir.
^ and start with right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
you should be A OK if you do this decently correctly, once finished check pedal travel.
Cheers
__________________ Quote-Terrastrife: Axel the confusion specialist!
-1992 Camry V6 XLE- *3VZ-FE* (with a dead auto trans.) <SOLD! Newest addition- 1987 300zx Turbo! what a blast!
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