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Is there anything to watch out for?
Do I need to drain the line first? Does it just run when I unscrew the bleeder at the bottom? If not, how to avoid making a mass?
has anyone over torqued the bolts before ( two that hold the cylinder in place )? if so, which part gives out first? the transmission or the bolt itself? I know it's a weird question, but when I was putting it on last time, it felt like the bolt turns forever ( it should hold , but then, it backs out just fine, so I just left it alone.
I have changed it out on a generation 1 Camry and on my 90 Mazda Miata. It should be pretty much the same. You don't have to drain the fluid, in fact, I would remove the line from the slave and then cap it off to keep all the fluid from draining out. You can try a cap from one of the brake bleeder screws. If that's too small, use you imagination for something to cap it off. You will have to do less bleeding to get pressure again. That said, I would continue bleeding the system until you get clear fluid coming out the bleeder valve. It might have been old contaminated fluid that caused the slave to go out in the first place. Usually moisture is absorbed by the fluid over time. It gets inside the slave and rusts/pits the inside of the walls of the slave. That pitting in turn, wears out the rubber seal that seals the piston as it travels over the walls of the cylinder. This causes the slave to leak and not hold pressure.
As far as the bolts, yes, they should tighten up. You could try a little blue Locktite on the one that won't tighten up and leave it overnight, to see if that helps a bit. Don't use the red Locktite as that would require heat to remove the bolt the next time. If that doesn't hold, I would ask a professional tech what he would do next. Maybe drill and put a Heilicoil insert in. You want to keep the same bolt size so it will pass through the hole in the slave cylinder.
It's really weird, it just seems to be turning after the bolt is all the way in, but then it backs out just fine and I looked the thread on both the bore and the bolt and they looked fine, it happend on one of the subframe bolt too, backs out fine, I can only think that the bolt is stretching, just doesn't seem to tighten up by hand, I used some thread locker and it seems to be fine up til I sold it.
and also, do you remember whether those wholes go all the way into the bell housing? or are they tapped on the casing but not through?
Sorry about all the questions, it's just that I have only this one car, so I'm trying to get all the tools I might need before I start the work.
Sorry, I don't remember if the holes go all the way through. It's been some time since I worked on my generation 1 (86 DX 5 speed). Off hand, I wouldn't think they go all the way through, but I'm not certain of that. If there is a dealer near you, you might stop by and just ask one of the techs there. Most don't mind answering simple questions.
You could try switching the 2 bolts with each other. That will tell you if it's the bolt or the threaded hole giving you problems. If it's the bolt, you can probably get another one at the local hardware store or home center. Just don't go down in grade to what is in there now. You don't want a softer bolt snaping off down the road when you might have to remove the slave again.
Just got my cylinder in today. And it doesn't have the union/union bolt assembly. What about those tiny copper ( i think )gaskets? Toyota manual says they are non-reusable, but do they really need to be replaced? I mean... I understand it deformes to prevent leak, so it's the best to replace them. Toyota also says the engine oil drain plug gasket needs to be replaced, which I never do.. and it seems to be fine. Those gaskets are toyota only parts, and they are 2.50 or so each. ( or I can buy copper washers, which I don't think is a good idea )
First, I dont remember there being a copper gasket on the slave cylinder end of the line. I remember it being a pipe-type thread on the line that goes in to the slave, but it's been many years since I worked on my 86, so I could be wrong. That said, I had a friend who is an ex-Toyota tech. He once told me he never changed them when he replaced a fuel filter. He said he never had one leak. You could just change it out and replace it later if there is one and you develope a small leak. Remember though, if you replace a gasket later, assuming there is one you will have to rebleed the clutch hydraulic system.
Did you look at the generation 3 manual stickied at the top of this forum to see if one is used?
Yup, in the manual there are two small gaskets, I assume metal.
I did the fuel line for a MR2 quite a while back, and near the fuel rail there was this same type of gasket ( I think it was for the cold start injector ), I didn't replace it either, and it didn't seem to leak, well, I guess the shop manual is just being extra careful. I will see, if it really does leak... well. then I'm just gonna redo it.
well, the cylinder I ordered turned out to be the wrong one, ( a few month matters when it comes to camry parts ) so I end up getting a rebuild kit.
and that bolt was really stripped, I took it out and it had metal shaving all over it. and that hole actually goes all the way through bell housing.
so we went and got a tap kit, and retraced the whole, then used a new bolt from Home Depot, carefully applied some blue locktight and torqued it in, seems to be holding fine. I don't know how was Gen 1 camry designed, but the way my 96 is designed, there is mainly just shear force, the tension is just there to keep the cylinder in place.
well, that was a ton of money wasted for absolutely nothing. I hope it gets rid of the occasional squeaking at least.
well, that was a ton of money wasted for absolutely nothing. I hope it gets rid of the occasional squeaking at least.
If the squeak is still there, try putting a dab of grease in the pocket where the slave push rod contacts the lever on the trans. That's the fix on Mazda Miatas for the squeak. I can't remember if the Camry was the same.
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