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Hey guys, I need a bit of help. I’ve removed the engine from my donor car (93 Camry), managed to remove the transmission from the engine. BUT! I the damn passenger side inner axle is still stuck on the block!!!!! I read through the 92 Lexus ES300 PDF manual (even though my engine is from a 93 Camry XLE) on how to remove the passenger side inner axle. It said to just remove the ginormous C-clip that is in the carrier bearing, but that didn’t do anything! It’s still stuck in there what am I doing wrong? Yes, I removed the little bolt from under the carrier bearing.
Also, how can I go about cleaning the carbon build up on the heads? I’ll be tearing the block down since the head gaskets appear to be leaking. Plus I’m getting a gasket kit from Toyota, which comes with the head gaskets, so I may as well do it now while the engine is out of the car (it’s going into my MR2). I would also like to clean the block so that i can paint it (so that i can identify new leaks after the engine is done. Any recommendations on that?
one last question… the PO of the donor car managed to break quite a few things… he broke the tensioner bolt on the alternator. How can I go about fixing this? do I just need a new bolt or what?
Are you tearing the motor all the way down or just pulling the heads off?
If your tearing it all the way down, you might want to look into having the block and heads hot tanked. Check with machine shops or engine building shops.
Another option is to blast the block with a pressure washer.
you have to pop it with a rubber malet... because its been in there for such a long time. They tend to get stuck in the axle carrier...
the junk you have on your motor ... may I suggest some brake cleaner and a tooth brush...
that's what i thought i was supposed to do... after that didnt work, I pulled out the Sledge hammer... still nothing. Any other Ideas?
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Originally Posted by 88 LE
Are you tearing the motor all the way down or just pulling the heads off?
If your tearing it all the way down, you might want to look into having the block and heads hot tanked. Check with machine shops or engine building shops.
Another option is to blast the block with a pressure washer.
Yeah, I'm just removing the heads & replacing all accessable gaskets. So hot tanking probably wont work for me. As for the pressure washer thing... i tried that the last time i dropped my 5s-fe from my mr2 and had very little luck. Any other ideas?
Try soaking the parts with Liquid Wrench or some kind of penetrant, let it sit over night, that should help loosen the parts. Use a hammer, a 3 lb hammer works the best.
The Heads i would recommend you take it to a machine shop. They will clean and check the head for cracks. And you will recieve it like new.
port and polish is pretty expensive for a good one with a flow bench test. Probably 500-600 dollars. And is it going to be turbo'd? You will want to tell them since a turbo p&p is differnt from an N/A p&p.
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Originally Posted by DarkMastyr
Is it just me, or has TN just become this massive gay fest? It's like you can't avoid the hot gayness in every thread.
wow, $500-600!!! is that for both heads? i want to turbo it, but i'm not sure if i'm gonna turbo it right away or wait a while (possibly a year) after the swap. would you recommend i wait until i go turbo to do the port & polish?
would you recommend i wait until i go turbo to do the port & polish?
I would wait, just because a port and polish to make hp for N/A might not give you as much as one that is designed for your turbo. They will be designed to flow differently, N/A will want the ports smaller to keep velocity up, while turbo ports can be larger because the air will be pressurized. I would wait to see what you wanna do.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMastyr
Is it just me, or has TN just become this massive gay fest? It's like you can't avoid the hot gayness in every thread.
I had a lot of problem with removing that Inner shaft on my 92 camry. It's not as easy as they describe in the manuals. After two days of fighting with it and going no where, I decided to ask my local parts store if they had any special tool for such a problem. Although they didn't, they recommended what's called a "Bearing Splitter". They loaned it to me and it worked like a charm. After years of use, the outer ring of the bearing gets rusted and bonds with the engine mount. Too much hammer work could damage a few parts. All you need to do is loosen it somehow as mentioned below. The splitter consists of two 3/4 in thick steel pieces and two 1/2 in bolts that screw through both pieces. If you need more than a 3/4 in gap, use wood or metal shims between the splitter and engine mount.
Assuming you have used a penetrating oil (PB blaster etc.) and left it overnight, wedge the two parts of the bearing splitter around the shaft between the bearing and the knuckle casting and screw the two bolts slowly. This will pull the two pieces towards each other, effectively pulling the bearing out of the engine mount. The reason this device works is because the knuckle casting is tapered and narrows towards the shaft. This device only helps to loosen the bearing from the mount. After that, go back to the hammer (a fat chisel helps) and get it all out (which should quite easy now). Don't forget to remove the large C-ring prior to this operation. And don't bend the ring either, it costs like $20 at the dealer and very few stores have it. good luck.
thanks for the info.. wish i would known this earlier. I tried just about everything except for that tool... so I ended up tossing it. I'm going to try to make the mr2 carrier bearing work with the v6.
My friend if you are doing all the work of pulling the head on a car of this vintage, send it to a machine shop or swap it for remanufactured. Valve material and camshaft are amazingly robust but they are one of the weak links in the combustion process, most especially the exhaust valves. So i would just have it done while it is off the car.
My friend if you are doing all the work of pulling the head on a car of this vintage, send it to a machine shop or swap it for remanufactured. Valve material and camshaft are amazingly robust but they are one of the weak links in the combustion process, most especially the exhaust valves. So i would just have it done while it is off the car.
I ended up taking the heads to a local performance shop where I had them cleaned, decked, as well as testing the heads… they ended up doing some valve work. So I think I’ll be good .
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Camry experts i need some input!
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